2017/2018 Balsa Build Along, SIG HOG BIPE ELECTRIC CONVERSION
- Thread starter nhk750
- Start date
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
Covering tail section
I'm terrible at covering compound curves like tail sections and wing tips, so I thought I would try something. I tried applying some trim pieces to the verticle stabilzer leading edge and then applied the covering and tried to heat it all together. It came out ok, but It looks like a hack master did it. I need to find some videos on how to do the verticle stabilzer covering better. But for now it looks ok and I'm tired.
I'm terrible at covering compound curves like tail sections and wing tips, so I thought I would try something. I tried applying some trim pieces to the verticle stabilzer leading edge and then applied the covering and tried to heat it all together. It came out ok, but It looks like a hack master did it. I need to find some videos on how to do the verticle stabilzer covering better. But for now it looks ok and I'm tired.
roversgonemad
Member
Do you have a covering puller or a good grippy glove? I am by no means a covering master, but I have found that pulling while heating with a heat gun can really do wonders. Yes, the heat shrinks the covering, but it also can make it really pliable. There's a fellow in our club that is an absolute master of covering. I have been considering asking him for a lesson or two. I have never seen wrinkle one in any of his covering! His planes are AMAZING!!
I leave extra material on the curved areas and sometimes grip it with a pliers and use my heat gun to pull it over the edge. The material can shrink and stretch as needed. A little area at a time and it comes out nice and smooth.
I've been planning to get a pair of these pliers before starting my next covering job
http://www.ohio-superstar.com/accessories/cover-tugger
http://www.ohio-superstar.com/accessories/cover-tugger
Those would work well for wide areas. I like using a small-ish pair of pliers for rounded corners like on the tail as I can pull smaller sections and put the force in specific areas.
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
I wear disposable nitrile orange gloves and they grip like glue, but I guess I need to get more aggressive when pulling. It would be nice to have a lesson for sure. It just seams like when I try to do a curve it all just crinkles up and sticks to itself and creases and frustrating. I found laying it down like I did and making relief cuts then forming with the iron is pretty easy. But, if your closer than three feet, you can see all that and the overlapping covering too. It's good enough for a fun sport flyer but if I build a scale beauty I will need to get this better.
Nice improvement! A couple things to consider - doing the bottom first is generally preferred as you'll have a much less obvious seam edge when done. Also, you might be able to get those remaining wrinkles to disappear with a hot iron - you'll be surprised what heat can do! I've been using a small trim iron a LOT on my big Cessna project and love it as I can get really precise applications of heat. Last, depending on how strong the surface is (and how brave you want to get) you may be able to pull the covering even further over the edge. When I do the bottom covering I try and get about 3/4 of the way up and around the edge. Then, when the top is done I try and get that far again towards the bottom sheet which gives me good overlap between top and bottom. But if you're doing two different colors that changes things, and then I'd normally only take the top sheet to the center of the surface.
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
It was like an "ahha moment" when I finally figured out how to stretch the covering around a corner. One guy helped by describing it as pulling a balloon and stretching it, after it is heated up of course. I am amazed at how hard you can pull on the covering. Now I need to be able to trim it a little better after it is attached, especially where the two different colors meet. In this color scheme I had to do the top first as it's yellow and the bottom is black. I always seem to do things the hard way...
This is definitely going to be a three foot away viewing plane.
This is definitely going to be a three foot away viewing plane.
roversgonemad
Member
I've always referred to my covering jobs as 10 footers; they look great from 10 feet away.... That line looks pretty darn good to me. I find my biggest challenge is keeping enough sharp blades on hand! I have resorted to using a strop when I cover, so I can get more mileage from my blades. As soon as a blade starts to cut poorly, I strop it and get it good and sharp again!
nhk750
Aviation Enthusiast
Working on mounting the windscreen. I decided to just screw in on and not glue it. I'm still wondering if I should take a syringe and glue it from the inside? It seems really strong as is and can easily replaced if needed.
The headrest melted down when I tried to cover it, so I just used some checkerboard covering in that spot and called it good.
The headrest melted down when I tried to cover it, so I just used some checkerboard covering in that spot and called it good.
A thin bead of canopy glue would be good insurance.
Around the open canopy edges on mine I picked up some black rubber tube from the auto parts store and slit it so it would fit around the edge. It gives a nice finished look for this style plane.
Around the open canopy edges on mine I picked up some black rubber tube from the auto parts store and slit it so it would fit around the edge. It gives a nice finished look for this style plane.
roversgonemad
Member
I think it looks great! You did a nice job. I am sure it will fly like a hog!! You're in the home stretch now!
Silverdog
Member
Love the checks on the turtle deck. A nice nostalgia appearance. Prior to melting, was the headrest hollow? Could one use it for a mold for replacement? I plan to build one of these and I'm just curious.This plane looks bigger as the covering has been applied. Looks great! Not much longer now till that maiden!
My Hog is a bit older, but the headrest appeared to be simple plastic, probably vacuum formed.
