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Build Log: Building My Dad's/Uncle's Guillows P40

#21
UPDATE

Motor Mount:
I created the motor mount to space the motor away from the first former. This allows it to protrude slightly from the plastic engine cowling and provide enough room for the prop to spin. I also incorporated a small amount of angling that I modeled from the Flite Test power pods to prevent torque rotation. I then braced the motor mount with struts and I can assure you that motor mount isn't going anywhere! ;)
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Cutting Space for the Central Wing Servo:
Because I decided to control the ailerons via a central servo and torque rods, I had to cut space in the fuselage to accommodate. I didn't like the idea of cutting out a piece from one of the plane's "backbones," but it was the only way to fit the servo. I then reinforced the area with more struts to prevent torsion of the fuselage that could be caused by the motor torque.
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Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder
I was able to run out to the craft store on Saturday and they had a nice selection of Revell balsa wood to choose from. I picked out a relatively straight 1/8" piece to cut out the vertical stabilizer and rudder. I used the plans from the kit to cut out each piece. I also went ahead and sanded both of them as well as the elevator and horizontal stabilizer with 220 grit sandpaper.
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So it is all coming together nicely! I am very pleased with the planes look so far. I was even able to stuff all the electronics into the battery hatch compartment instead of the cockpit, so I am very happy about that! :p
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Have a great Memorial Day everyone!

Take care,

- Sir Fly
 
#22
Hey guys, it's been awhile!

I haven't been able to work on the P 40 recently because school has been kicking my butt (finals this past week). However school is over now so I should have more time to work on the plane. Will keep updated!

- Sir Fly
 
#26
So most of the work now is just sanding. I already have the tail surfaces sanded, so all that is left is to sand the fuselage and wing. I am going to try and sand all the parts by the end of the weekend, so I'll post pictures Sunday or Monday when I am ready to skin.

Speaking of skinning, does anyone have any experience skinning an airframe with tissue paper? I have heard you can do it with water, but the plans specify dope....any tips?

- Sir Fly
 
#28
I use a UHU brand glue stick and 50% isopropyl alcohol to skin my planes in tissue.
Hmm... haven't seen that before, but that seems easier. Thanks for the suggestion!

In the meantime I have finished sanding all of the airframe. Here's the picture:
20170618_184859.jpg

Dont mind the foamboard in the back. It's a bf109 my friend and I are making at my house for him. ;)
 
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#29
Yo guys! How's it going!

So as you probably have guessed, the going has been pretty slow on the plane. I haven't really been able to work on skinning the P-40 because a lot of things have been going on recently. Family vacations, other projects, and life in general has made it hard for me to continue work. However, with all that said, I am still planning on getting this bird in the air before the end of summer, so stay tuned!

Thanks for your patience,

- Sir Fly
 
#30
Alright, so took a pause from the FTFC '18 Build-off and designing the V-173 Flying Pancake. Cracked down today and started skinning the airframe. So far, all is going well. The water is still drying on the elevator and battery hatch, but it looks like it's tightening up nicely. Once the rest of the airframe (wings and fuse) is skinned I'll apply the dope and harden the tissue. But again, very pleased with the progress and I was expecting it to be harder. All I needed was a glue stick, X Acto knife, and some water/alcohol solution and I was ready to go! Hopefully the wing will be done tomorrow and the fuselage the day after.

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#31
Finished Skinning, Ready for Dope!

Finally finished skinning the entire airframe with tissue paper yesterday night. The wing came out the best, but the fuselage was almost just as good. To say the least I am very pleased with how it turned out. There is something oddly satisfying about looking at a skinned airplane! :cool:

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I am going to try and run out to my LHS and pick up some Eze Dope to harden the tissue. Now I have to start thinking about adding the plastic pieces and painting! I have a couple paint schemes in mind and I'll lay them out below. Let me know what you guys think would look the coolest.

The first scheme is Kenneth M Taylor's P-40. He was one of the two pilots who got airborne during Pearl Harbor and scored 4 kills (the movie Pearl Harbor is based around these two pilots). The second is one of the AVG's Chinese Flying Tigers with the iconic tigershark nose art. And the third is a scheme from Tunisia. It's a pretty unique scheme, if I do say so myself. I really can't decide myself, so I am open to opinions.

P-40 Paint Schemes.jpg
 

TexMechsRobot

Posted a thousand or more times
#33
To say the least I am very pleased with how it turned out. There is something oddly satisfying about looking at a skinned airplane!
I couldn't agree more. I think this is my favorite part about building tissue planes. That moment when it is all skinned and shrunk and before final assembly or paint. Your efforts look really good!

I am going to try and run out to my LHS and pick up some Eze Dope to harden the tissue. Now I have to start thinking about adding the plastic pieces and painting! I have a couple paint schemes in mind and I'll lay them out below. Let me know what you guys think would look the coolest.

The first scheme is Kenneth M Taylor's P-40. He was one of the two pilots who got airborne during Pearl Harbor and scored 4 kills (the movie Pearl Harbor is based around these two pilots). The second is one of the AVG's Chinese Flying Tigers with the iconic tigershark nose art. And the third is a scheme from Tunisia. It's a pretty unique scheme, if I do say so myself. I really can't decide myself, so I am open to opinions.
I'd vote for Tunisia since it is so unique.
 
#34
Thanks everyone!

I am also leaning towards the Tunisia paint scheme, but I'll keep an open mind for a little while more. ;)

Quick question: I called ahead to check if my LHS had Eze Dope, and it turned out they are closed for most of the month due to construction damage, so I am without dope to cover the tissue. Does anyone know if Modge Podge works as a replacement for dope? I have heard that Elmer's Glue + Water works fine, but I figured I would first try and use an adhesive that is recommended for tissue paper.
 
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TexMechsRobot

Posted a thousand or more times
#35
Elmer's glue and water will work but it is water soluble. You'll need to seal it after painting (if the paint doesn't seal it) to mitigate humidity in the air or dew on the grass.
 
#36
I tested the Elmer's/Modge Podge + water concoction and it had some adverse effects that I was not looking for. Fortunately, I only tested it on the horizontal stab and the battery hatch, so it shouldn't be too noticable. For some reason the tissue on both sides of the stab stuck together in the middle between the stingers and the tissue on the battery hatch seemed to sag a little bit, even though I put on the "dope" as lightly as possible. I tried tightening both pieces with the alcohol and water treatment, and that proved ineffective.

So I am not going to use that method anymore and I will just order some Eze Dope on Amazon when I get around to it. Hopefully that can fix some of the issues I am seeing. If not, I will go ahead and paint it and try to cover up the problems. If that doesn't work, I'll cut off the tissue and try again.

Does anyone else have a solution for this? :confused:
 

Nerobro

A Severe Lack of Sense
#37
I've had some reasonably good luck with elmers glue and water, at least for providing a nice and stiff tissue covering. 2-3 coats goes a long way. But as noted, it's not water resistant.

My usual process is to use a colored glue stick and apply that to the airframe. I use that to tack on the paper. Being sticky, you can pull most of the slack out of the paper before the glue stick hardens. Then I shrink the paper, I usually do that with a water/alcahol spray in a spray bottle. Then I have been using thinned elmers glue to provide the paper with some strength.

I wonder if thinned wood glue would work? It comes in waterproof varieties.

........... this is frustrating. This was all common knowlege in the 50's. Nowdays? "if it's not ultracote, it's crap!"
 
#38
........... this is frustrating. This was all common knowlege in the 50's. Nowdays? "if it's not ultracote, it's crap!"
LOL

Yeah That is exactly what I did. But when I went to apply the thinned Elmer's glue, the whole thing started sagging and all the slack came out. It didn't soak in or something.
 

TexMechsRobot

Posted a thousand or more times
#39
I tested the Elmer's/Modge Podge + water concoction and it had some adverse effects that I was not looking for. Fortunately, I only tested it on the horizontal stab and the battery hatch, so it shouldn't be too noticable. For some reason the tissue on both sides of the stab stuck together in the middle between the stingers and the tissue on the battery hatch seemed to sag a little bit, even though I put on the "dope" as lightly as possible. I tried tightening both pieces with the alcohol and water treatment, and that proved ineffective.

So I am not going to use that method anymore and I will just order some Eze Dope on Amazon when I get around to it. Hopefully that can fix some of the issues I am seeing. If not, I will go ahead and paint it and try to cover up the problems. If that doesn't work, I'll cut off the tissue and try again.

Does anyone else have a solution for this? :confused:
Re-wet the areas that are stuck together to reactivate the glue (assuming it's water or alcohol soluble). Then, as it dries, gently twist the tail surface back and forth. You have to be careful not to over stress the wood and it can take 5-10 minutes of work. No guarantee but it's worked for me in the past. It has also not worked some times but it's worth a shot!