Flite Test - Baby Blender v.2 - BUILD
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ESCs are sized by the maximum current capacity they can throttle, so being higher than the motor's max draw is perfectly fine . . . but with capacity comes weight and cost.
A plush 25 or 30 will work just fine with this motor, but lately I've had good success with the F-20A (too small for this motor) and F-30A (will work) ESCs. It's a reliable design that's been stable for a while, and easily reflashable if you ever get the mind to try it in the future. A bit heavy, but nothing that motor can't shrug off.
I've heard the Blue Series ESCs are good as well, but can be regularly hard to find too.
I stay away from Redbrick ESCs. Some people love them, but I've had them burn out from infant mortality. YMMV
A plush 25 or 30 will work just fine with this motor, but lately I've had good success with the F-20A (too small for this motor) and F-30A (will work) ESCs. It's a reliable design that's been stable for a while, and easily reflashable if you ever get the mind to try it in the future. A bit heavy, but nothing that motor can't shrug off.
I've heard the Blue Series ESCs are good as well, but can be regularly hard to find too.
I stay away from Redbrick ESCs. Some people love them, but I've had them burn out from infant mortality. YMMV
last question guys - the recommended motor is NTM 28-26A 1200kv / 250w, but i can only find 252w with 1100kv or 286w with 1200kv...also is there such a big difference between the NTM series and the TURNIGY D2830-11 1000kv that you recommended for me? is it worth the exta money?
Not fooling us David!!! (we know it won't be the last 
)
NTM is one of Turnigy's mid-high range premium brands (though some have argued the berrings are inconsistant). The standard Turnigy brand is a lower quality build , but still nice motors, especially for the price.
"worth the price" for the NTMs is really hard to measure -- I like mine, and I'm willing to buy more for my quadrotors, four at a time, but YMMV.
)NTM is one of Turnigy's mid-high range premium brands (though some have argued the berrings are inconsistant). The standard Turnigy brand is a lower quality build , but still nice motors, especially for the price.
"worth the price" for the NTMs is really hard to measure -- I like mine, and I'm willing to buy more for my quadrotors, four at a time, but YMMV.
Not fooling us David!!! (we know it won't be the last
.
Lol you got me on that one!
And what about the watt/kv difference? i cant find the alleged 1200kv/250w motor...
The 1200/286w motor will work with the F 30A ESC right??
The NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv motor has a max current of 17 amps, so yes a 30 amp ESC will be fine, you could even drop to a 20 amp ESC if you wanted to.
Watts and kv are seperate measures of performance. Watts say how much power the motor can safely consume (if it's doing it effeicently, then how much power it can put into the air), and kV is how quickly the motor will like to spin (measured unloaded, but it'll drop dramatically as you over-prop the motor).
Getting similar wattage, when propped right won't have a huge affect (not much difference between 230, 250 and 280W, but huge diffrence between 85, 160, and 300W). keep in mind, this is a max rating. Put on a smaller prop, or lower voltage battery and you'll never hit these power levels. too big on either, and low throttle might be fine, but WOT will overheat and burn out the motor eventually.
KV is a complex beast -- it sets how fast the motor spins, but you can change the pitch of the selected prop to adjust the final speed up and down. No harm in picking the same (or nearly the same KV) but moving a few hundred each way will start to affect your prop selection and top speed, several hiundred will have a strong affect.
As for the ESC, look at the max current . . . oh wait, some of these don't publish that. If they do, I usually make sure the ESC is at least 10% above that. if they don't, but publish the wattage, a conservitive measure would be:
W/(cells*4v)
So for a 250W motor that can handle a 3S or 4S pack:
250W/(4S*4v) = 15.6 -> add 10%, so it needs ~18A ESC
Keep in mind, the watt rating is always made on the highest cell count the motor is designed to handle. picking a lower one you use result in much higeher currents, and an oversized ESC estimate.
Getting similar wattage, when propped right won't have a huge affect (not much difference between 230, 250 and 280W, but huge diffrence between 85, 160, and 300W). keep in mind, this is a max rating. Put on a smaller prop, or lower voltage battery and you'll never hit these power levels. too big on either, and low throttle might be fine, but WOT will overheat and burn out the motor eventually.
KV is a complex beast -- it sets how fast the motor spins, but you can change the pitch of the selected prop to adjust the final speed up and down. No harm in picking the same (or nearly the same KV) but moving a few hundred each way will start to affect your prop selection and top speed, several hiundred will have a strong affect.
As for the ESC, look at the max current . . . oh wait, some of these don't publish that. If they do, I usually make sure the ESC is at least 10% above that. if they don't, but publish the wattage, a conservitive measure would be:
W/(cells*4v)
So for a 250W motor that can handle a 3S or 4S pack:
250W/(4S*4v) = 15.6 -> add 10%, so it needs ~18A ESC
Keep in mind, the watt rating is always made on the highest cell count the motor is designed to handle. picking a lower one you use result in much higeher currents, and an oversized ESC estimate.
Watch the build video for both the Baby Blender 1 and 2. Josh covers different issues in them. It wouldn't hurt to watch all the build videos actually, in each one Josh gives tips that can help with this build (for example he talks about hot-glue hinges in a couple of the other build videos, but doesn't mention them at all in the Baby Blender videos.)
Take your time cutting everything out and assume that you will mess up quite a bit. I cut out 3 fuselages before I had one I was happy with. Remember foam board is cheap so be quick to throw a cut piece away if you aren't happy with how it looks.
Expect to burn through lots of x-acto blades maybe even one blade per sheet of foam board.
You might find this thread helpful: http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?6617-How-to-transfer-plans-to-foamboard
If you are really new to the hobby, then these videos might be helpful as well: http://makezine.com/makerhangar/
Take your time cutting everything out and assume that you will mess up quite a bit. I cut out 3 fuselages before I had one I was happy with. Remember foam board is cheap so be quick to throw a cut piece away if you aren't happy with how it looks.
Expect to burn through lots of x-acto blades maybe even one blade per sheet of foam board.
You might find this thread helpful: http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?6617-How-to-transfer-plans-to-foamboard
If you are really new to the hobby, then these videos might be helpful as well: http://makezine.com/makerhangar/
I saw the build videos for a couple of times...and i have some building experience with balza.
Actually my main concern is the type of the poam board - i dont live in america and here we have a thing called Kapa poam board.
i hope its the same thing (and have +- the same weight)
Actually my main concern is the type of the poam board - i dont live in america and here we have a thing called Kapa poam board.
i hope its the same thing (and have +- the same weight)
Weight shouldn't be much of an issue.
As designed, most of these planes are pretty floaty. There's a few different brands of foam project board with different densities here. The heavier ones tend to be more durable but cost 2-5 times more. They all fly fine.
As designed, most of these planes are pretty floaty. There's a few different brands of foam project board with different densities here. The heavier ones tend to be more durable but cost 2-5 times more. They all fly fine.
Oh Yes! Like the look of the plans. Just started working on the speedbuild kit myself, first copied the parts onto poster board, than cut them out from green and yellow elmers foamboard. Seems to be heavier than the kit. Almost finished with it. Wanted to build a biplane to fly for practice before I try to fly my PZ Albatross or balsa Newport 11, cannot get parts for them anymore I hear...And soo pretty... now back to finishing the Blender before the 12 inches of snow starts tomorrow night. Hope to maiden before the storm starts! Thanks FT
I live in israel and here we have only kappa foam, so i cant help you with that.
About the plans - just go to a place that have a plotter printer. at the same place i printed the plans i cutted the foam with a CNC knife Cutting System . you cant cut kappa with lasser...
but i did it only because i was lazy and i dont have alot of free time...just take your time and use the plans to cut the foam .
About the plans - just go to a place that have a plotter printer. at the same place i printed the plans i cutted the foam with a CNC knife Cutting System . you cant cut kappa with lasser...
but i did it only because i was lazy and i dont have alot of free time...just take your time and use the plans to cut the foam .
thx!
Getting my son ready for the flying season. He is a rookie but then so am I
Last summer I flew a friends Tiger Moth and loved it. It was a simple 2S powered rudder/elevator plane.
I'm torn between the BB2 and the Flyer.
I do not want to deprive him of learning to fly with all controls available to him.
Several schools of thought on the subject.
That said I suspect I could set the BB2 up with rudder/elevator controlled only at first. Unlocking the ailerons once he advances.
Thoughts?
Andre.
Last summer I flew a friends Tiger Moth and loved it. It was a simple 2S powered rudder/elevator plane.
I'm torn between the BB2 and the Flyer.
I do not want to deprive him of learning to fly with all controls available to him.
Several schools of thought on the subject.
That said I suspect I could set the BB2 up with rudder/elevator controlled only at first. Unlocking the ailerons once he advances.
Thoughts?
Andre.
