FT Mini Mustang Paper Replacement Kit

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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FT Mini Mustang Paper Replacement Kit-Old Crow

I have always enjoyed creating custom printed tissue and paper covering for foamies. Skins as I call them. With work experience in graphic design and printing as well as a love of aviation, I have felt well suited for this. Although not a new concept by any means (there are many such coverings for profile planes) they can be difficult for more 3 dimensional craft. Flite Test aircraft cry out for such ornamentation!
So I have created a kit with which one can replace the paper on the foam a FT speedbuild kit or glue them to “Dollar Store Foam” with the paper peeled off. Either way you will end up with an awesome highly detailed model.
It is advisable that you download the full plans and have them available for viewing before beginning your build. You will need them for reference as score lines are not on the skin kits. This is not a beginner build! You must be comfortable with the flite Test build method. I would also advise you build a mini P51 before attempting this. I learned much from my first build.

**Please read the Hints and Tips under the pics before printing and building!**

The first one out is Clarence E. “Bud” Anderson’s P51 Mustang “Old Crow”. Note - The aircraft depicted below has no electronics installed. The spinner/prop/motor is a dummy for looks only.

Old Crow profile.jpg
I used the pic above as well as many other pics to create original art on the FT plans. I open the Flite Test planes in Illustrator and create custom art from scratch. That way 1) the art is created specifically for the FT mini P51 and 2) it's my original work, no copyright issues.
OCa.jpg
I purchased a FT Speed Build Kit and tested every print to make sure they were exactly the same as the FT plan originals.
OCaa.jpg
OCb.jpg
OCc.jpg
OCd.jpg
OCe.jpg
Tons of detail make this a plane that looks as good on the ground as it does in the air.
OCf.jpg


There are to page sizes for you to print out. An 11X17 and an 8.5X11.

The 11X17 version has less tiled parts and makes for a quicker build. It’s six pages, over 31 meg and available here. Or cut and paste this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/v49wbqtrhbmz2yd/FT MM P51 Old Crow 11X17.pdf?dl=0

The 8.5X11 version can be printed by most home printers. It’s fifteen pages, over 31 meg and available here. Or cut and paste this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8x6rnm2rl4yum52/FT MM P51 Old Crow 8.5X11.pdf?dl=0

Let me know if you run into any issues with the files.

Hints and Tips

  • Printing - Please check your Print Dialog box and make sure that under "Page Size & Handling" that the "Actual size" button is checked and NOT the "Fit" button. If "Fit" was chosen it can result in smaller sized prints even when the correct paper size is selected. So far this one tip, if not done, has wasted more time and money than anything else!
  • This is not a beginner build! You must be comfortable with the flite Test build method. I would also advise you build a mini P51 before attempting this. I learned much from my first build.
  • It is advisable that you download the full plans and have them available for viewing before beginning your build. You will need them for reference as score lines are not on the skin kits.
  • The extra turtle deck - It was the one piece I had the most issue with. The extra non-curved one was a last minute fail safe. In case something went wonky with a build, the builder would have this to use as a backup to custom cut.
  • The horizontal stab - Do not cut out the tabs that engage the fuse on the top (green) skin. It is unnecessary and will detract from the look.
  • The Wing - I opted to just remove all the paper and only use the skins. I think after the spar is in it will be more than sufficiently strong. Take extra care in trimming the edges where the wing halves come together.
  • The fuselage - Peel off the paper from just one side of the foam.
  • When a piece has two sides covered with skins:
    1. Rough cut one side from the paper
    2. Take an appropriate sized section of foam and peal the paper from both sides.
    3. Glue it to the foam
    4. Trim the foam to the skin (art)
    5. Trim the other side of the skin from the paper.
    6. Carefully align the second side to the foam
  • The bottom of the fuselage - Take extra care when gluing the two bottom sections into place. Panel lines should line up and the paper on the edges should be flush for a clean look.
  • Sheeting - To keep the color between pieces the same I printed out everything on the same paper - 24lbs bond. For parts that require card stock, I just glue the printed sheet to a black sheet then cut the piece out.
  • Sharpie Touch Ups - Use black, light gray and medium to dark olive Sharpie for touch ups.
  • Weathering Tip - Use a silver fine tip Sharpie to simulate paint chipping.
  • Landing Gear - You have several options in the gear and bay area. As a belly lander, cut and glue part of the gear bay doors so it overlaps the wing and fuselage. For a mustang with gear down, cut and glue in the "open bay" graphic, Again overlap the wing and fuse. Use the remaining gear doors to make yourself some killer looking landing gear! Can't wait for someone to do this!
  • Belly Landings - Protect you P51 doing belly landings so it stays awesome looking longer. Using packing tape on the undersides of the fuselage.

The next big thing will be who posts the first “Old Crow” flight video! :cool: It won’t be me so good luck! Build, fly, and post lots of pics! :D
 
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Rasterize

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I was working on the canopy for Man O War and I thought you guys might want a basic canopy for you planes.

Mini Mustang Canopy V2.jpg
FT Mini Mustang Canopy Blue V2.jpg
FT Mini Mustang Canopy Red V2.jpg

I included and gray, blue and red one. Your choice!

Just download and print the attached high res PDFs on some 8.5X11 cardstock on your color printer and you are good to go!
Canopy on PDF is two up for twice the fun!
 

Attachments

  • FT Mini Mustang Canopy V2.pdf
    645.7 KB · Views: 187
  • FT Mini Mustang Canopy Red V2.pdf
    619.8 KB · Views: 138
  • FT Mini Mustang Canopy Blue V2.pdf
    619.3 KB · Views: 131
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Rasterize

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The "Man O War" Mustang should be done before the Corsair. Maybe by weeks end if I'm lucky
 

Spastickitten

Senior Member
I wonder if nose cones need to be 3d printed for such small models, because that would be the icing on the cake for me.
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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First off I can't express enough how absolutely cool this looks!!!!
I printed out the right wing on some 80lbs text gloss coated paper yesterday to do some construction testing. (weight, glue adhesion ect.)
It just so happened my speedbuild kit for the corsair and Mustang arrived yesterday as well so I had it for comparison. I cut out the wing skin (well, half the wing) and it was a perfect fit for the speedbuild kit wing section (minus that weird little triangle thing). :/
I then took the paper off a sheet of Redi-Board and attached the skin with 3M77 spray. No issues there.
I then glued on the small underside section (again no issues) and did a weight comparison to the speedbuild kit. Both parts came in at the same weight, .6 oz! Very cool! You will notice I printed a wheel well graphic and wheel well cover separate. Once the model is complete. you can glue either on overlaying it between the wing and the fuse.

Mustang wing test1.jpg

I then added the wing spar and assembled the wing section. Man does it look awesome!

Mustang wing test2.jpg

Wing testing is complete. Unfortunately this wing will never see flight.
The art for the other wing half is done. Time to address the tail section.
 

SP0NZ

FT CAD Gremlin
Staff member
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First off I can't express enough how absolutely cool this looks!!!!
I printed out the right wing on some 80lbs text gloss coated paper yesterday to do some construction testing. (weight, glue adhesion ect.)
It just so happened my speedbuild kit for the corsair and Mustang arrived yesterday as well so I had it for comparison. I cut out the wing skin (well, half the wing) and it was a perfect fit for the speedbuild kit wing section (minus that weird little triangle thing). :/
I then took the paper off a sheet of Redi-Board and attached the skin with 3M77 spray. No issues there.
I then glued on the small underside section (again no issues) and did a weight comparison to the speedbuild kit. Both parts came in at the same weight, .6 oz! Very cool! You will notice I printed a wheel well graphic and wheel well cover separate. Once the model is complete. you can glue either on overlaying it between the wing and the fuse.

View attachment 59679

I then added the wing spar and assembled the wing section. Man does it look awesome!

View attachment 59680

Wing testing is complete. Unfortunately this wing will never see flight.
The art for the other wing half is done. Time to address the tail section.

You gotz mad skillz yo!

Seriously though, that looks amazing.
 

RockNBurn

Senior Member
Nice, I could use this to convert some planes to depron.
I may try this on the future. Maybe an FT Cruiser.
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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Thanks Sponz! And thank you for all the work you do with the plans. They open nicely in Illustrator and allow me the flexibility to do things like this. You da man!
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
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Tail feathers are ready. I think I'm going to do a mock up soon so I can start to figure out the sheeting which will be the most challenging part. When everything is done and fits well I'll post the PDF's for printing for those who want to try this on their own.
For now, here are some pretty pictures. ;)
FT MM Horizontal Stab Proof.jpg
FT MM Tail Proof.jpg
 

RockNBurn

Senior Member
Maybe it would be a good idea to have a bleeding edge. making the actual drawing a tad bigger than it should be, to give room for mistakes. You can aways trim the excess after you glue it down.
 

BridgeInspector

Flite Test Groupie
Did I read that you are doing these in Illustrator, or did I make that up?

I was wondering if when you get the hard work stuff done (Many Thanka), if you could offer to share the original files. This way we can tweak them a bit, like color, tail numbers, nose art,etc.
 

Rasterize

Maker of skins and decals for foam board RC planes
Moderator
Mentor
Maybe it would be a good idea to have a bleeding edge. making the actual drawing a tad bigger than it should be, to give room for mistakes. You can always trim the excess after you glue it down.

Very good idea. I actually did make them with a bleed. I guess "great minds think alike" right? :)
I "trimmed" the file digitally in Photoshop before posting. The pics so far are only proofs and not meant for print. I will post those when everything is done.
I have yet to decide how I want to put them foam so I don't know how the finals will look in so far as bleed is concerned. However I only want to create one print file. I wanted to release these as PDFs in 8.5X11 and 11X17 formats so folks can print or get them printed as easily and cheaply as possible.
 

photohap

Junior Member
Did I read that you are doing these in Illustrator, or did I make that up?

I was wondering if when you get the hard work stuff done (Many Thanka), if you could offer to share the original files. This way we can tweak them a bit, like color, tail numbers, nose art,etc.

You can use Illustrator to edit PDF's, as long as they aren't rasterized. I do it every day for work. But of course the native AI file is better to have.
 

lawdog

New member
Very cool

First off I can't express enough how absolutely cool this looks!!!!
I printed out the right wing on some 80lbs text gloss coated paper yesterday to do some construction testing. (weight, glue adhesion ect.)
It just so happened my speedbuild kit for the corsair and Mustang arrived yesterday as well so I had it for comparison. I cut out the wing skin (well, half the wing) and it was a perfect fit for the speedbuild kit wing section (minus that weird little triangle thing). :/
I then took the paper off a sheet of Redi-Board and attached the skin with 3M77 spray. No issues there.
I then glued on the small underside section (again no issues) and did a weight comparison to the speedbuild kit. Both parts came in at the same weight, .6 oz! Very cool! You will notice I printed a wheel well graphic and wheel well cover separate. Once the model is complete. you can glue either on overlaying it between the wing and the fuse.

View attachment 59679

I then added the wing spar and assembled the wing section. Man does it look awesome!

View attachment 59680

Wing testing is complete. Unfortunately this wing will never see flight.
The art for the other wing half is done. Time to address the tail section.


This is so cool! I wonder if you will get a call from the flitetest guys so they can print your designs right on the Foamboard of their speed build kits.