FT Mustang - Build

aangeles123

New member
i decide to change the balck color of the cowl for green IMG_5443.JPG
 

Andre

Fly yes... land no.
Admin
Old Mustang

I bought this one for my Dad last summer at Flite Fest.

It has been through a lot including a Canadian winter.
Well my Dad decide he was due for a fresh air frame and was going to scrap this one.

IMG_9209.JPG

I set to work repairing and gluing down all the loose paper issue.

IMG_9265.JPG

Installed a fresh power pod with a used motor and esc from the old FT Racer.

13047836_10156815305385416_7932787659187652355_o.jpg

Honestly the most time consuming part was installing some stop links into the servo arms.

I guess I owe my Dad 4 servos.

I just need to apply a little silver paint and packing tape to bring back some strength along the wing edges.
 

gsansoucie

Junior Member
Has anyone tried to CA the turtledeck (poster board) onto the waterproof foam?

I took some scrap and did a test piece and ZAP thin CA doesn't hold. I also tried Foam-Cure with no luck.

I can't believe I am out of all the other CA, I might have to make a run go Home Depot for some Gorilla glue instant for a test as well.
 

gsansoucie

Junior Member
Update. I had to hot glue the poster board to the waterproof foam, I couldn't get the CA to work. The Gorilla Super Glue didn't even dry, I had to wipe it off with a shop towel.
 

Marshall_S

New member
I'm looking for a good 4 blade prop and spinner that will fit on the NTM 2826 in the 1350KV motor which has a 3mm shaft. I purchased the E-flite P-51D Mustang 4-Blade Spinner along with the E-flite 9.8 x 6 P-47D/P-51D 4-Blade Propeller but the prop adapter that came the motor isn't long enough for this spinner. The prop adapter that will fit the prop/spinner is for a 5mm shaft motor, not a 3mm. So, I'm back to looking for a 4 blade prop/spinner set that would work will the FT Mustang and fit a 3mm shaft motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

tyoho

Member
I on a bit of a red white and blue kick, so I dressed up my FT Mustang like Miss America.
IMG_0114.JPG IMG_0115.JPG MA resized.jpg

flew a perfect maiden after paint at the field but then I did a perfect figure 9 at lunch yesterday.
It'll buff out.

IMG_0117 resized.jpg IMG_0118 resized.jpg
 

m_eye_flying

New member
I am in the process of completing the FT Mustang build, but I am running into rudder slop with link rod no matter how much I adjust the rudder and linkage stopper. Anyone have any suggestions? I do not see any interference with rudder. However, I did make my cut angle on rudder on the wrong side and sealed with hot glue as instructed. I do not see any extra glue in the way to cause the 'bowing' affect the linkage is doing. Thanks for any help. I did notice that I printed the PDF plans from the web and not PDF doc, so I ended up with a 43" wingspan and slightly larger fuselage...a happy accident as it is close to 1100mm now.

I am using an EMAXX XA2212 / 1400kv motor (states equivalent to park 400 size motor), SimonK 30 AMP ESC with BEC and 11.1v 3s 2200mAh lipo ( I have larger ones I can use too as in 11.1v 3s 3000mAh), EVO 9 x 6 prop . I hope this setup works. I do have more new motor(s) I can use - A2212/5T 2700kv, but thought those would be better in a smaller craft, such as a 250 size quad.
 

planebreaker2000

Active member
m-eye-flying

Not sure by the description maybe a zip tie loop to stabilize, or a bamboo skewer taped onto wire. Post a pic if you can with the rudder in both directions of travel
 

m_eye_flying

New member
Hello planebreaker, sorry for the delay on responding. Here are the two pics. Wondering if I just need to set endpoints?

IMG_5564.JPG IMG_5565.JPG

Appreciate any thoughts or directions.

-m_eye_flying
 

planebreaker2000

Active member
If you put a zip tie loop around the control wire, not too tight, and poke a hole through the fuse at about the right height when it is not flexing. You can the glue it through the fuse and cut off the excess on the other side. Somewhere around halfway from control horn and where it exits fuse. Also loosen the nut on the backside of the adjustable linkage so that it rotates freely inside of the control horn. And then look at your end points or just move the adjustable linkage to the next hole in. The mustang does have very good rudder authority so not too much travel needed.
Good luck.
 

m_eye_flying

New member
@planebreaker, adjusting the end points is all I needed to do. Thanks again. Also, been working on getting retracts installed and spent the weekend cutting, gluing, fabricating servo box area under wing. I cut through the paint stick area and reinforced with several popsicle sticks under both sections of the wing for extra stability.

IMG_5569.jpg


Used reinforced drywall mesh tape (light weight) and smeared with fingers a thin layer of wood glue over surface.

IMG_5572.jpg

Why I did that? Was just trying to make a solid foundation. Its not pretty, but I am working on adding next some foam boarding and peeling off the top paper layer and sanding around landing gear area to conform to wing to look better. Don't need to, just want to for looks. Here is a quick video of it working.

 

m_eye_flying

New member
@Mid7night, the tail wheel setup you have. Can you explain your install. I looked, but maybe I missed it in the thread. Thanks.
 

m_eye_flying

New member
@Mid7night, I ended up just using same wire (Round Bar by Everbilt 1/8 size) from Home Depot, I used on main gear, $2 for bar for 48" long. Just dremmel the size I needed, bent it to look like a gear. Because I am using Elmers foam board, I was able to push the bar down straight far enough for stability and hot glue it. The board is stronger and worked like a charm while moving with rudder smoothly.

IMG_5598.JPG

Here is a shot from underneath wings. Still has enough up angle to resemble correctly. Looking forward to getting the Parkzone (PKZ1513) P51 canopy soon to use with it and then a maiden hopefully before winter hits.

IMG_5594.JPG
 
Last edited: