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FT Simple Storch - BUILD

servo for flaps

Many thanks for the helpful responses regarding servos for the flaps options.
The idea of using programmable servos is pretty interesting as well.

So, for single-channel flap support I could:
1) Rig a single mechanical control of some sort.
2) Use a Y-cable and...
2. a) modify one servo for reverse operation or
2. b) attach a servo reversing device between one servo and the Y-cable or
2. c) mount both servos oriented identically (but asymmetrically) or
2. d) get two programmable servos (like Emax ES08d) and programmer (like Emax Servo Programming Card). Program one for reverse operation.

The DXe support 7 or 9 channels, but its capabilities are apparently limited by the DXe's programming software.
I'm still trying to figure out what the software can let it do, and documentation is extremely scant.
One DXe release document I've found mentions flaperons in passing, but I've found no specific selection for it in software or in documentation. That's why I floated that question out there.

As I discover more general stuff about the DXe, I should probably post findings in a DXe thread until I find more flaps/flaperon/mixing information that might be of help.
For my Storch I have the separate aileron and flap controls. I was thinking of using an 8-channel receiver such as the X8R, but opted for the 6-channel one instead. I am using two separate Y harnesses for the ailerons and flaps. For the aileron servos these are mounted in a mirrored configuration which is exactly what you want for ailerons. For the flaps, I modified the plans slightly to ensure that the flap servos are oriented in the same direction on both halves of the wing. For example, the aileron servo horns point toward the outside of the wing, but the flap servo horns both point to the left wing tip. This ensures that both servos actuate in the same direction. Many other options are available, as have been mentioned previously: Mullti-channel receivers, servo reversers, reversed servos, etc. I found this modification the easiest method to ensure proper flap operation with the minimum of parts required.

Good luck! The Storch is a great plane.
Veering to the left ?why

I finally built my Storch and got a chance to take it out for its maiden flight today.
Trouble is it never got off the ground!

Every time I increased the throttle it would go into a mad spin- pretty much always to the left -- see the video
Any ideas why??

I tried correcting with rudder but it was difficult and the plane was pretty persistent about going to the left.
I have used the equipment and build as per the FT instructions- no deviations. The engine looks straight so I don't think it's the motor causing it.

Your ideas would be much appreciated.
Narrow LG plus prop's spin-up torque plus inefficient rudder at zero speeds plus natural taildragger's trend to tighten the turn. :)

I'm sorry, but I don't see any rudder deflection on this video. With the plane behaving like this, you should deflect the rudder to the right at the very beginning, before you even apply any throttle.

The other thing is the LG itself: make sure both wheels are rotating freely, and that toe-in/out angle is the same on both sides (it should be zero or very slightly toe-out). You may try to make the LG wider if you can, but that may not be possible at this point if you followed the instructions 100%.

And the last thing: try to change the way you apply throttle. The Storch have relatively small vertical stabilizer, shadowed by relatively tall fuselage. You may try both applying the throttle slower (with the full right rudder applied all the time) to make it moving forward before the turning tendency becomes too strong; or apply full throttle immediately to force as much airflow around the tail as you can before the plane starts to move at all.

Good luck, and have fun!
Ok thanks

Ok thanks Bayboos,
I'm going to try ensure the landing gear is correct (found this the hardest part of the build) plus using the rudder more next time.
Will let you know how it goes!


Aviation Enthusiast
You need rudder!

Ok thanks Bayboos,
I'm going to try ensure the landing gear is correct (found this the hardest part of the build) plus using the rudder more next time.
Will let you know how it goes!
The storch takes full rudder deflection whe trying to taxi. It's a balancing act to taxi, i usually just give it full throttle smoothly, about half to full right rudder and she will lift off pretty straight. I usually dont even attept to taxi as I dont want to stress out the tail gear too much. See my video above for my STOL takeoff that I just described...thats with no flaps too!
Covering or replacing DTFB paper with cellophane. IT WORKS!

Hey fellow Foam Destroyers,
I am a long time RCer and have built a few foamies over the years. However our club the Ozarkmountainbarnstormers.com aka Barnstormers or BSers have been bitten by the FT bug.
There is a rapidly growing swarm of FT planes appearing, recently 5 and soon 6 Sea Ducks and a gaggle of others.
Any how I am one of those guys that likes to experiment ....ya I know "not another one". :rolleyes:
But I peeled the paper off of the tail pieces ( both sides) and wing (Outer side only) sheeting of my Storch. Sprayed some 3M 77 carefully on the DTFB (white) and replaced it with Dollar Tree cellophane gift wrap. Well it works. A bit fiddly do to static electricity but it works just fine.
I also used Dollar Tree "Foil" gift wrap. It is basically the same thing but has a mirror coating making it look metallic. It is still semi transparent.
I had trouble with static on the bigger wing pieces. Taping the wrap to the table ( thing drafting tape) would solve that completely. So I have more wrinkles in my wings this go around but its not so bad as to $&!^ can 'em.
The Cellophane comes in colors and clear. Weight is lighter with the cellophane compared to the original paper. At first I thought "foil" was metallic but it is cellophane. It does STAY down well so far. You do have to be LIGHT handed with the 77, drops of it will eat holes but the mist is cool.
I still have to experiment with sealing the board edges. If the usual hot glue method doesn't work I may try thinned down epoxy.
Any how I'm trying sumpin new and having fun! Thanks Flite Test.
Now when is my Sea Duck gonna show up ? LOL
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working for a few days then I want to do a second wing. One with only out board ail and one with full wing ailerons for FUN.
I do a better application of the covering for comparison pics.
Found out that the Cellophane does shrink WELL. A bit too well as the wing tips on the Storch wing curled up. Could be reheated and reshaped by adding a rib.
TIP: Cellophane does heat shrink A LOT.
TIP: Mod Podge decoupage glue is great for DTFB edge treatment, waterproof and cheap and LIGHT(-:
Recently completed building the FT Simple Storch after picking up the quick build kit and power pack at Flitefest West. Built and flown a couple of drones but I am new to fixed wing. I followed the build video but the quick build kit contained a card with an introduction, specs and on the back the following text.
"For best results, install all the linkage stoppers in the third hole from the center of the servos. On the ailerons and rudder, insert the push rod into the first hole from the hinge line on the control horn. On the elevator, insert the pushrod into the second hole from the hinge line on the controller horn"
In the build video it appeared Josh installed the push rod into the 3rd hole from the hinge line on all control surfaces. Appreciate any advice on this - Richard
control throws on Storch

I would follow the written instructions. Josh is an experienced flier and can handle a lot more control movement or throw.
The horn on the servo is inverse to the horn on the ailerons, rudder and elevator. moving out on the servo arm is MORE throw and moving in on the other is more. Geometry DID have a practical purpose after all:D
Check and see if there is an inch measurement of the throws. I will too and get back to you.
I have a Power Pod C that I purchased & built for the Bloody Baron. If I understand correctly, the Storch should accept that power pod without any issue. It has:
(1) Motor - Emaxx GT2215/09
(1) ESC - BL Heli 30 amp ESC
HQ Propellers 10 x 4.5 Slow Fly

Is everything up there fine for this plane?

What about battery?

I have a Tattu 1300mAh 75C 3S1P and TURNIGY BOLT V2 1300MAH 3S 65~130C HIGH VOLTAGE on order but it appears that a higher capacity and lower C rating is suggested?



Aviation Enthusiast
I use a Turnigy 2,200, 40c, 3S and they work great. Lower c rating usually means lighter battery. Higher c ratings are nice as you will have a flatter discharge curve and more power punch out at lower voltage. I find the 35-40c rated batteries to work perfectly with the c- pack style planes. The batteries you have will work fine for now.