I'm extremely new to this and have a few problems

[cranialrectosis]

Thanks, Mac.

I was using my card (from my flight bag) for a 32 channel and was really hoping someone would come in and make sure.

 

[Somethignweird]

So far nothing is showing up in the goggles.
This is what the switches look like right now

1 U
2 U
3 U
4 D
5 D
6 D

D = Down
U = Up

EDIT: I don't live anywhere near Colorado Springs

 

[cranialrectosis]

As I look at the doc, you should be transmitting on freq 4 channel 1 5740M (thanks again Mac for the link) based on your switch settings.

The goggles are 40 channel and per some comments I am seeing online scans one band every time you push the search button. Since you have a 40 channel receiver you may have to search 6 times to find the channel you are on.

I would try that. Try the search button 6 times and see if it doesn't find your freq.

 

[makattack]

Ah, but you're in East Bridgewater, MA.

If you are ever near Boston, let me know and I can arrange to meet up and help! Heck, with enough advance notice, I am willing to make a road trip to meet in between.

 

[cranialrectosis]

Ah, but you're in East Bridgewater, MA.

If you are ever near Boston, let me know and I can arrange to meet up and help! Heck, with enough advance notice, I am willing to make a road trip to meet in between.

I just love this community.

 

[Somethignweird]

So far i'm not getting anything on the goggles. I would just like to clarify a few things.
1. Do I put 4, 5, and 6 on down and then try or should I leave them all up.
2. Do I have to turn the quad on first or not.
3. Does the remote have to be on to.

 

[makattack]

You should be fine with 4,5,6 down. You will have to avoid Fr6 (4 down, 5,6 up) because your goggle doesn't receive on those frequencies: 5363M-5621M).

You will need to have the VTX (video transmitter) powered up, which generally means you need to power up the quad.

If you ever have your quad powered up, you should always have the transmitter powered on just in case your failsafe isn't set properly. In all cases, make sure your props are removed until you're ready to fly.

 

[cranialrectosis]

Turn on goggles.

Turn on transmitter. Always before you power a copter. It's a failsafe safety thing.

Turn on copter.

Search on goggles. You should be transmitting now. I made a mistake with your 40 channel VTX last night. You were transmitting last night with all the switches up too and the goggles should have found the signal.

I would power up and search. Look for picture or a flat black screen without static. If you don't see signal, IMO, you need to test another VTX. Powering a VTX without an antenna can torch the VTX pretty quickly. That may be the issue here. I think that would be simpler and maybe cheaper than replacing the goggles.

BTW I did find a site showing details on how to disassemble those goggles and get at the receiver if push comes to shove.

 

[Somethignweird]

Alright so I've tried exactly what said a couple of times and there is still nothing. At this point i'm thinking that I probably fried the VTX accidentally without knowing it. I think i'm going to buy another VTX and see if it works. Which one would you recommend me getting that would work with my goggles?

EDIT: Just remember to ask if the transmitter turns on by itself when I plug in the lipo or is there a something extra I have to do.

EDIT 2: Looked a little closer and realized that there IS an LED on the VTX. Can't get it to light up tho.

 

[Somethignweird]

Here are some more pictures.



Thats all my drone stuff



Thats what the switches look like right now.

 

[cranialrectosis]

Can you confirm that the VTX is connected to power?

If it is, I suspect that no LED means it's toasted. It's not an expensive part and a lot simpler to replace (I think) than the goggles.

 

[Somethignweird]

When you say that I need to confirm that its getting power, do you just mean that I need to make sure all the wires are connected properly or is there another way. Also, if it IS broken, what VTX would you recommend me getting.

 

[cranialrectosis]

Voltage meter is best. Look at the connections at the least.

I'll let Mac chime in on recommendations. He seems to know your hardware better than I do.

 

[Somethignweird]

I don't have a Voltage meter but I've already checked the wires and everything is were its supposed to be. Thanks for all the help you guys have been giving me. I can't even begin to explain how much I've learned.

 

[makattack]

Yeah, unfortunately, this VTX doesn't have any LEDs indicating status. You just have to see if you can tune it in via the VRX or "feel" if it's getting warm, if you don't have a multimeter (which are inexpensive and very useful in this hobby!)

 

[Somethignweird]

I've tested it a couple times and I've confirmed that the VTX does not work. Do you think I should buy the same VTX or get a better one. Thanks for replying. ☺

 

[makattack]

I've tested it a couple times and I've confirmed that the VTX does not work. Do you think I should buy the same VTX or get a better one. Thanks for replying. ☺

Well, that's a good question. I've had problems with some eachine VTX's which seem to blow their voltage regulators easily for me. Just the 200mW models in the 32 channel models. I think they are TX5823's.

I suppose they may have improved them by now, but I don't know. I bought and liked them for their low cost, and they went on low cost airframes.

If you don't want to fiddle with stuff, and price isn't an issue, by all means go with better hardware. If you don't mind the fiddling and like to gamble on the quality a bit, go with the cheap stuff.

Now, about the fiddling. Cameras are not all the same. I believe the camera on the Wizard had a typical eachine wiring setup and is a 5V camera. Some cameras are 12V. Some have different pin outs. Since the camera is connected to the PDB and not to the VTX, I think you're ok with changing the VTX and not having to change the camera.

If you want to change the VTX, if you don't get a pin compatible version, you may end up having to desolder the existing cable or change the pin order around on the connector (assuming the connector is compatible with the new VTX).

So, I guess how willing are you with soldering/modifying your VTX vs keeping things more plug and play compatible?

 

[Somethignweird]

At the moment I don't have a soldering iron so I can't modify anything on the drone too much. I am going to get some more tools on the future when I have the money The best thing for me right now is the cheapest thing I can find that still has pretty good quality.