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  1. #1
    Senior Member Greg2B's Avatar
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    Post Mini H-Quad BlackOut Build Log | Greg2B

    So today I finally received my Blackout H-Quad in the mail. Yea!!!!

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    Then I went through all of the smaller bag to check out all of the items and it was all there. I was missing my T-shirt so I'll have to contact Blackout about that. The awesomeness of having the quad blinded me to this until I was writing this.

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    I also of course got more props since you can never have enough and added them to my prop collection.

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    After all that I went and found all of the gear that I hope to put in the build. I ordered the ARF so I got the ESC and motors with the bundle.

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    Tiger MN1806 2300kv (I believe, they just say blackout on them)
    BS 12amp SimonK ESC from Hobby King (with white heat shrink, it wont be a blackout quad, it will be a ZebraOut Quad...)
    Orange 6ch Reciver DSM2(need a real spektrum but will have to save up for that. I might switch to my generic micro 6ch reciver I have on my other quad.)
    Acro Naze32

    FPV Gear
    ImmersionRC 5.8gHz 600mw Video Transmitter
    ImmersionRC 5.8 GHz SpiroNET Antenna
    Sony Super HAD CCD 600TVL IR Block


    I've learned from reading FinalGlideAus Build Log on Mini-H that I’m missing a few things like liquid electrical tape and/or a 12v step up regulator. But if I understand it all correctly the board outputs 12v this so I should be able to power the camera it from the board with no problem right?

    I could also use a Male to Male Coaxial Cable but I'll probably just mount my Vtx in a way that works without it. Also an OSD might be handy but I will have to look into that later when I have more funds. I don't plan to customize the quad as much as he did to his and will keep it as simple as I can for my skill level right now.

    I went ahead and built the frame to get an idea of how it is put together here are are some pics though nothing special.

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    Also I had to solder something on the quad so here are some more pic and some gifs I randomly made. It looks so cool with the lights on.

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    Initially I was super excited for this quad to come in then once I was laying everything out I became a bit intimidate about building it. I think it's the circuit board that has me a bit off since my soldering skills are still pretty raw. I have soldering wires to wire and bullet connectors down down but a board seems harder to me since I haven't done it as much except to disassemble my turnigy micro quad. I think though that I will be able to put this together without to many issues I hope.
    Quote: My quad just pulled an Icarus...

    My fleet:
    DroneKraft Mach300 GT - In the Works...maybe
    BlueSkyRc Tricopter - Needs Re-tuning
    BlackOut Mini H Quad
    Hovership Micro H Quad - In the Hangar
    SSHQuad v3 - In need of Repairs
    Turnigy Micro Quad #2 - Dead
    Turnigy Micro Quad #1 - Dead
    Red Eye One
    Blade Nano QX
    Hubsan X4 107D
    Hubsan X4 107C #2 - Broken
    Hubsan X4 107C #1 - Dead/Lost
    Hubsan X4 107L

  2. #2
    terrorizing squirrels FinalGlideAus's Avatar
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    You'll be fine Greg, just take it slowly and do some practicing on soldering before you commit too much on the min H. Make sure you cover the solder points on the PDB with liquid electrical tape otherwise if you land in moist grass you will short things out and damage the components.

    You can solder the Camera you got direct to the PDB as it runs off 12v but there is the chance you will get lines through the video signal due to the dirty power supply. That is why I went through the IRC vtx. This is not a big drama though. Just solder it direct to the PDB and if you do get lines just buy a filter for it or just make one like this
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDUoxsMpfYQ

    I would highly recommend putting in an extension coaxial antenna cable. This is because in a crash the antenna takes quite a hit and if it is connected direct to your VTX it is likely that the connector will break off the VTX as it is connected direct to the PCB. If that happens you are not only grounded but also up for another expensive VTX.
    We need another law like we need more jerks...

  3. #3
    Senior Member Greg2B's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips, I will be sure to make note of all of them while doing my build.
    Quote: My quad just pulled an Icarus...

    My fleet:
    DroneKraft Mach300 GT - In the Works...maybe
    BlueSkyRc Tricopter - Needs Re-tuning
    BlackOut Mini H Quad
    Hovership Micro H Quad - In the Hangar
    SSHQuad v3 - In need of Repairs
    Turnigy Micro Quad #2 - Dead
    Turnigy Micro Quad #1 - Dead
    Red Eye One
    Blade Nano QX
    Hubsan X4 107D
    Hubsan X4 107C #2 - Broken
    Hubsan X4 107C #1 - Dead/Lost
    Hubsan X4 107L

  4. #4
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    +1 on the electrical tape. I fried an ESC because I didn't do it right away.

    The other advantage of powering your camera through a step-up regulator, is that you will have to freedom to switch to 4S in the future.
    I am in the process of modifying mine to do just that (but it's working fine with the camera directly connected to the PDB, with a 3S battery).

  5. #5
    Kite Eating Tree Trimmer cranialrectosis's Avatar
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    Very cool. Love the pics and the animated gifs.
    Freiheit schöner götterfunken tochter aus elysium!

  6. #6
    Senior Member Greg2B's Avatar
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    I had the chance to work on it a little bit more today. For some reason I had the idea that I could use small 2mm bullet connector to connect the wires and esc's and just wrap the extra wire on top of the arm and cover it all. After stripping the wires a bit, tinning the wires, and doing all of the bullets connectors with shrink wrap for one arm. It turned out I didn't have enough wire for a neat fold with the bullet connectors.

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    I then tired this again, though only on one wire this time (I slightly learned), but with the wire cut really short so it would fit on the arms. It turns out it still wasn't short enough for it to be flat on it...

    So I said what ever and just just soldered the motor wires direct to the esc's. I have some fear when ever I've attempted this before mainly because if screw up then I need a whole new esc.

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    But is seems everything went right this time and it even spins in the right direction when I tested it in baseflight with the battery connected. I'm hoping I can get the directions right on the first try for each motor. There should be some way for me to test this before connecting it to the board.
    Quote: My quad just pulled an Icarus...

    My fleet:
    DroneKraft Mach300 GT - In the Works...maybe
    BlueSkyRc Tricopter - Needs Re-tuning
    BlackOut Mini H Quad
    Hovership Micro H Quad - In the Hangar
    SSHQuad v3 - In need of Repairs
    Turnigy Micro Quad #2 - Dead
    Turnigy Micro Quad #1 - Dead
    Red Eye One
    Blade Nano QX
    Hubsan X4 107D
    Hubsan X4 107C #2 - Broken
    Hubsan X4 107C #1 - Dead/Lost
    Hubsan X4 107L

  7. #7
    terrorizing squirrels FinalGlideAus's Avatar
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    It looks like you've soldered motor 2 in that picture. If it is spinning the right way then solder motor 3 the same. Then for motors 1 and 4 just cross two of the motor wire and all will be good. If it is reversed if using BLHeli FW you can reverse motor direction in the setup page. If using SimonK you can flash reverse direction FW.

    I wouldn't recommend using bullet connectors on those motors.
    We need another law like we need more jerks...

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by FinalGlideAus View Post
    It looks like you've soldered motor 2 in that picture. If it is spinning the right way then solder motor 3 the same. Then for motors 1 and 4 just cross two of the motor wire and all will be good. If it is reversed if using BLHeli FW you can reverse motor direction in the setup page. If using SimonK you can flash reverse direction FW.

    I wouldn't recommend using bullet connectors on those motors.
    I second the recommendation to not use bullet connectors. You can just solder everything up directly, making sure to use the same wiring order for two diagonal motors, then the reverse ordering (just swap any two of the wires) for the other two diagonal motors. If you happened to wire everything up the opposite of what the Naze32 is expecting, you can reverse the yaw direction in Baseflight if you're using the stock Naze32 firmware. I had to do that. It's really simple and works perfectly. I can't verify it right now, but I believe you'll want to open the CLI in Baseflight and type "set yaw_control_direction=-1". I can verify that for sure in a day or two if you need me to.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Greg2B's Avatar
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    Yesterday I spent pretty much the whole day working on my quad and by night time I was able to do a quick indoor and night outside(3:00+) flight test of it.

    It flies really well as far as I can tell and a bit surprised it worked with and issues. I have noticed a few things that I need to address though as I finish the build.

    Space...there is none of inside of the quad. I realized that while trying to put my bit orangeRX inside, I had to pop it out of the case and heat shrink it to fit it inside easily. Also the cords that connect it to the FC are a pain and almost got destroyed by the prop when the poped out of place a bit (3:45 in video). I will have to make sure everything is tied down.

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    Liquid Electrical tape is messy. I did a test on a dead ECS to see how it spread but when I was applying it to my camera it still went all over the place. I even used a smaller brush then the one it comes with. It looks like I covered some pins of the connector ports for the camera ports so I may have to get another camera which sucks. I should have looked up a tutorial on how to use it first. I will be using even a smaller brush next time I use it.


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    I was planning to power the camera for now from the board with the JST port I hooked up to the front and power the Vtx from the back JST port. I did test it out before the whole tape issue and it does work. Now I just have to decide how I want to connect the video line. I was thinking of just using JST and just using the red line since I wasn't sure if I wanted to connect it directly but I may do that seeing how much space the JST ports take up inside. Any thoughts?
    Quote: My quad just pulled an Icarus...

    My fleet:
    DroneKraft Mach300 GT - In the Works...maybe
    BlueSkyRc Tricopter - Needs Re-tuning
    BlackOut Mini H Quad
    Hovership Micro H Quad - In the Hangar
    SSHQuad v3 - In need of Repairs
    Turnigy Micro Quad #2 - Dead
    Turnigy Micro Quad #1 - Dead
    Red Eye One
    Blade Nano QX
    Hubsan X4 107D
    Hubsan X4 107C #2 - Broken
    Hubsan X4 107C #1 - Dead/Lost
    Hubsan X4 107L

  10. #10
    Senior Member Greg2B's Avatar
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    Okay so I should have looked at some videos first. After watching this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HTa3QGc4FQ and seeing how he was able to remove it I tried the same on my camera ports using my exacto knife and remove the tape from inside the port. I tested it all out and the camera and osd still still works to adjust the camera.

    I also took another look and the board and I re-notice the video port on the board. I'm assuming this is to bass the video signal to the back. I think I'm going to test this and if it work I may use it and if I need to use a filter I will since I ordered one just in case.
    Quote: My quad just pulled an Icarus...

    My fleet:
    DroneKraft Mach300 GT - In the Works...maybe
    BlueSkyRc Tricopter - Needs Re-tuning
    BlackOut Mini H Quad
    Hovership Micro H Quad - In the Hangar
    SSHQuad v3 - In need of Repairs
    Turnigy Micro Quad #2 - Dead
    Turnigy Micro Quad #1 - Dead
    Red Eye One
    Blade Nano QX
    Hubsan X4 107D
    Hubsan X4 107C #2 - Broken
    Hubsan X4 107C #1 - Dead/Lost
    Hubsan X4 107L

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