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  1. #1191

    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Germany - near Frankfurt
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by jhitesma View Post
    ....550g ready to fly for what's close to a 1m wing...

    ....not warp at up to 250F after annealing....
    The model looks fine...landing speed with this weight may be a little high???
    The conversion for 250F is ~120C - sounds like a big improvement compared to normal PLA


    This technology
    https://markforged.com/mark-two/#specifications
    could be a great advantage in printing lightweight and strong parts....
    "....the Mark Two prints materials that no other 3D printer can, like Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass and Kevlar...."

    ooops...the price is not so "lightweighted" ---> $13,499.00

  2. #1192
    Laser parts are on the way on the slow boat, thanks to Jason's advice.

  3. #1193
    Video of the first full sheet cut!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1JVG0g0JHw

    It worked pretty well, my z ended up off a little bit so there were still some bits holding it together on the bottom, but I ran through it with an xacto and in a couple minutes it was perfectly fine.

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    Then while printing the second wing, disaster struck and the needle guide ended up in the foam, the needle was gone and that foamboard sheet was done for.

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    So this is related to two things, one, that my stepper motors get very hot, especially my smaller set. So hot that I just added heatsinks to them. And two, that my pineapple coupler never fit my threaded rod very well. It was mostly held together with super glue.

    I'm printing a new smaller pinapple coupler, the imperial version is slightly smaller than the 8mm version, but my 8mm rod fit too loosely in the 8mm coupler, so I'm printing the imperial one. While I'm at it, I'll lengthen my threaded rod as I ended up lengthening my z axis earlier but the rod is still shorter so it eventually comes out. Also, while I have it apart, I'll be adding some lithium grease to the z axis to hopefully smooth it out a bit.

  4. #1194
    Quote Originally Posted by Verris View Post
    Video of the first full sheet cut!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1JVG0g0JHw

    It worked pretty well, my z ended up off a little bit so there were still some bits holding it together on the bottom, but I ran through it with an xacto and in a couple minutes it was perfectly fine.
    ...
    So this is related to two things, one, that my stepper motors get very hot, especially my smaller set. So hot that I just added heatsinks to them. And two, that my pineapple coupler never fit my threaded rod very well. It was mostly held together with super glue.

    I'm printing a new smaller pinapple coupler, the imperial version is slightly smaller than the 8mm version, but my 8mm rod fit too loosely in the 8mm coupler, so I'm printing the imperial one. While I'm at it, I'll lengthen my threaded rod as I ended up lengthening my z axis earlier but the rod is still shorter so it eventually comes out. Also, while I have it apart, I'll be adding some lithium grease to the z axis to hopefully smooth it out a bit.
    Oh, my! Things looked great up to the point it failed. Did the Z-axis actually fall suddenly in mid-cut?

    It's interesting that you have different steppers on the X and Y axis... just used what you had on hand? Also have you checked your motor driver reference voltages... motors running so hot it's probably set too high for those particular steppers? IIRC 0.75v for X/Y, 0.5v for Z are reasonable starting points for steppers with same/similar ratings commonly used for MPCNC.

    Sounds like you have it all under control... please let us know what you find -- David

  5. #1195
    Yeah, my steppers are from my pre-upgrade kit Prusa i3, which had two different sized motors. The voltages are all set to their correct values according to Ryan's directions. My problem was the coupler started slipping around the threaded rod, only sometimes gripping it so when it would spin there was a chance it didn't move, which it didn't move up, then it did move down and went past the bottom. I've got a new coupler printed, attached with better screws I could tighten more and actually designed and printed a new cutter mount overnight that I'm about to assemble and see how it works.

  6. #1196
    The first new version worked ok, it was mostly a combined version of the add on bearing block, added 20mm height and Jason's cutter. The needle would slip forward and back and ride between the bearings and the wall, or the bearings and the restraint out front.

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    I've now printed this beautiful contraption to test all the fits and it works great. Next step is to attach it to the cutter and print it out.

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    Last edited by Verris; 02-25-2017 at 09:52 PM.

  7. #1197
    Also, another huge upgrade was changing from the 5 for $0.80 inflation needles to some that came with a pump by Spalding. Their walls are about twice as thick, they are longer and they are attached at the top a lot better. The pin fell out of the first one I was using.

  8. #1198
    Posted a thousand or more times jhitesma's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Yuma, AZ
    Posts
    4,207
    I actually was going to comment on the Spalding needles. Because apparently my walmart has switched from the cheap generics they had before to Spalding. Same price or at least still in the 2 for $1 range. But as Verris says they're thicker and more substantial. It does seem to run with a bit more friction for me, but I doubt I'll wear it out nearly as quickly as the last two cheapies!
    Stop in and say hi in the unofficial FT IRC channel!

  9. #1199
    Now cutting the piece that previously it failed on. Working great with the new cutter.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zi6u0tOCkMw

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