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  1. #51
    Kite Eating Tree Trimmer cranialrectosis's Avatar
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    Can you confirm that the VTX is connected to power?

    If it is, I suspect that no LED means it's toasted. It's not an expensive part and a lot simpler to replace (I think) than the goggles.
    Freiheit schöner götterfunken tochter aus elysium!

  2. #52
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    When you say that I need to confirm that its getting power, do you just mean that I need to make sure all the wires are connected properly or is there another way. Also, if it IS broken, what VTX would you recommend me getting.
    I'm just starting out with this hobby so I would appreciate any help I can get.

  3. #53
    Kite Eating Tree Trimmer cranialrectosis's Avatar
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    Voltage meter is best. Look at the connections at the least.

    I'll let Mac chime in on recommendations. He seems to know your hardware better than I do.
    Freiheit schöner götterfunken tochter aus elysium!

  4. #54
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    I don't have a Voltage meter but I've already checked the wires and everything is were its supposed to be. Thanks for all the help you guys have been giving me. I can't even begin to explain how much I've learned.
    I'm just starting out with this hobby so I would appreciate any help I can get.

  5. #55
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    Yeah, unfortunately, this VTX doesn't have any LEDs indicating status. You just have to see if you can tune it in via the VRX or "feel" if it's getting warm, if you don't have a multimeter (which are inexpensive and very useful in this hobby!)
    KC1CHR

  6. #56
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    I've tested it a couple times and I've confirmed that the VTX does not work. Do you think I should buy the same VTX or get a better one. Thanks for replying. ☺
    I'm just starting out with this hobby so I would appreciate any help I can get.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Somethignweird View Post
    I've tested it a couple times and I've confirmed that the VTX does not work. Do you think I should buy the same VTX or get a better one. Thanks for replying. ☺
    Well, that's a good question. I've had problems with some eachine VTX's which seem to blow their voltage regulators easily for me. Just the 200mW models in the 32 channel models. I think they are TX5823's.

    I suppose they may have improved them by now, but I don't know. I bought and liked them for their low cost, and they went on low cost airframes.

    If you don't want to fiddle with stuff, and price isn't an issue, by all means go with better hardware. If you don't mind the fiddling and like to gamble on the quality a bit, go with the cheap stuff.

    Now, about the fiddling. Cameras are not all the same. I believe the camera on the Wizard had a typical eachine wiring setup and is a 5V camera. Some cameras are 12V. Some have different pin outs. Since the camera is connected to the PDB and not to the VTX, I think you're ok with changing the VTX and not having to change the camera.

    If you want to change the VTX, if you don't get a pin compatible version, you may end up having to desolder the existing cable or change the pin order around on the connector (assuming the connector is compatible with the new VTX).

    So, I guess how willing are you with soldering/modifying your VTX vs keeping things more plug and play compatible?
    KC1CHR

  8. #58
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    At the moment I don't have a soldering iron so I can't modify anything on the drone too much. I am going to get some more tools on the future when I have the money :P The best thing for me right now is the cheapest thing I can find that still has pretty good quality.
    Last edited by Somethignweird; 02-17-2017 at 07:23 PM.
    I'm just starting out with this hobby so I would appreciate any help I can get.

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