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  1. #101
    Moderator Craftydan's Avatar
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    May 2013
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    Tex,

    Glass as Primer. I like the way you think

    Ran into the same trouble with linkages. started off with low-end 9g tower pro's, with a touch more bend than they liked . . . No dice. would struggle to move at all and couldn't center.

    Swapped out a beefier servo (MG-92B), switched to a open-sided tandem setup, then let the servo find it's own happy spot along the width:

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    it's only by chance they're both so close to centerline. you let the servo land where it lands, then screw it down into the rail.

    They're MUCH happier now.
    Crafty Dan
    -<-' ~~~
    __________________________________________________
    What goes up, must be smashed into little pieces (eventually)

  2. #102

    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Seattle
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    779
    Quote Originally Posted by Tench745
    I believe the problem you're running into is not how well the covering sticks to nylon, but the thermo-elastic properties of the nylon. IE, your nylon expands when you stick the covering on with heat, then contracts as it cools, wrinkling your covering. If this is, in fact, the case I doubt applying bondo or fiberglass to the surface will help much. The nylon will just expand and contract under your filler material and crack that too.
    I think the safest bet is to remove the covering, sand the nose smooth, and paint it. Doing it in a complementary color like rockyboy suggested would probably look best.

    Alternatively, if you can get the iron really hot and stick your covering down as quickly as possible (fast-fast) the underlying surface might not heat up enough to cause the troublesome expansion. Maybe do a small section at a time and let it cool in between.
    This was exactly my concern. I figured the nylon shrinking as it cooled was my issue and that the thin layer of anything I put over it wouldn't fix the problem. I may try to do the spot method you mentioned before I pull it all off since it can't hurt to try. I've pretty much resolved to pull it off and paint it though since it seems like the only thing that'll really get the job done properly.


    Quote Originally Posted by Craftydan
    Ran into the same trouble with linkages. started off with low-end 9g tower pro's, with a touch more bend than they liked . . . No dice. would struggle to move at all and couldn't center.

    Swapped out a beefier servo (MG-92B), switched to a open-sided tandem setup, then let the servo find it's own happy spot along the width:

    Attachment 87750

    it's only by chance they're both so close to centerline. you let the servo land where it lands, then screw it down into the rail.
    There isn't much bend in the area near the servo. Most of the bend is at the tail where it curves to exit the fuselage and connect to the rudder. I went to the LHS last night to pick up some items and wandered around for 15 minutes because I had 5 items in my hand and I knew there were 6 items on my list (that I forgot to bring with me). I left without the smaller pushrod that I needed to test that theory....

    I did discover that a 9/32" rod is too big to fit in the carbon arrow shaft. I wrapped one layer of masking tape around the 1/4" joiner rod and it was a perfect fit.

    I didn't get any work done on it last night because we were packing to go camping and I'll be gone all day Saturday and Sunday morning. I'm headed over to a Pacific Northwest event called "6 Pack" that is all about sloping. I'm going to hope for light winds so I can try out my Alula Trek and then watch the big boys play with their half-piping 300mph monsters.

  3. #103
    Aviation Enthusiast nhk750's Avatar
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    Sep 2016
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    694
    I was just thinking about rubber bands. My Trainstar Exchange has these nice white, longer than #64, rubber bands it came with and they are really nice. You can Google Trainstar Exchange and actually order these rubber bands. I like them as they are just a little longer than the #64 rubber bands and they seem much more durable too.
    Cessna 172SP pilot, thriving RC pilot...

  4. #104

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    After a weekend at 6Pack in Eastern Washington (Eagle Butte, Sam's Dirt Ridge, Kionna Butte) watching the big boys play with their slope planes, I got home Sunday morning and made a lot of progress finishing out the nose and covering the wings. I tried to heat zap the covering on the nose by applying a very hot iron to small sections of the nose for about 1-2 seconds. It was enough to shrink the covering and not heat up the nylon too much. But the effort was going to take a couple of hours and I didn't want to wait so I masked the area off, cut the covering back, and painted it white. I painted the spinner red with the idea that it would be easily identifiable when landing but the now I think it looks like a clown and I may sand it of and go with white. My wife says it looks fine lol.

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    I went really simple on the wings. Just solid black on the bottom and white with red tips on the top.

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    I'm really close to a maiden once I get the electronics sorted out and an initial balance. I'm thinking I should be tossing this in about 2 weeks.

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  5. #105
    Illegal Squid Fighting? agentkbl's Avatar
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    Nov 2016
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    Marysville, Washington
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    144
    Majestic.
    "Fold the parts up till it looks like a plane, glue it so it stays that shape, screw in a motor and some electronics and toss it in the air."
    -Aviator08

    "Simplicate and add lightness."
    -Tench745

    (I take no credit for the above quotes in my signature. I simply thought they were clever.)

  6. #106

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    Thanks! I can't wait to get it in the air.

  7. #107
    Tench745's Avatar
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    Jun 2014
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    Baldwinsville, NY
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    I love it. A little Red pinstriping around the edges of the black and it will really pop.
    Hangar: Hobbyzone Champ, Speedster, Curtiss Jenny, FT Scout, Cafe Air Racer Mk II, Bluntnose Versa, Eachine H8 mini quad, ZMR 250 quad.
    Workbench: Progressive Aerodyne Searey, Cafe Air Racer Mk III
    Deceased:Cafe air racer 78, flying wing built from crashed air racer, FT Flyer Guillows FF P-51D

    "Who wants to life a life imprisoned in safety?" Amelia Erhart (from the movie, Amelia)

  8. #108

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    Feb 2016
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    I gave it a quick balance last night by loosely placing the battery and ESC on top of the hatch as I balanced it. I should be able to balance it effectively without adding any unnecessary weight. It seems to be pretty touchy to the weight change though. If I shifted the battery 1/8" in either direction, it tipped beyond balance and wanted to fall off of the balance sticks. I hope it isn't that sensitive in flight. I'll know more once I can give it a few glide tosses.

    I also did an AUW measurement and it came in at just under 65 oz which I am happy with. I'll add a few grams with velcro, a battery stop block, and some glue but I should easily stay under 70 oz which was my goal. That puts me at about 9 oz/sqft wing loading.

    Tonight I plan to install the electronics and harnesses and do another balance test. I plan to start my balance at 40% chord and adjust from there. Craftydan, where do you like yours balanced?

  9. #109
    Aviation Enthusiast nhk750's Avatar
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    That wing is beautiful! Can you gee a picture of it on the balance sticks? I am curious how it looks and your balance stick system too. Thanks.
    Cessna 172SP pilot, thriving RC pilot...

  10. #110

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    Thanks! I'll try to remember to take pictures when I balance it.

    The "balance stick system" is a 2x4 with 1/4" holes drilled in it and 1/4" dowels with a glob of hot glue on the end to soften the tip. Nothing fancy.

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