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  1. #31
    Sir Fly's Avatar
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    Finished Skinning, Ready for Dope!

    Finally finished skinning the entire airframe with tissue paper yesterday night. The wing came out the best, but the fuselage was almost just as good. To say the least I am very pleased with how it turned out. There is something oddly satisfying about looking at a skinned airplane!

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    I am going to try and run out to my LHS and pick up some Eze Dope to harden the tissue. Now I have to start thinking about adding the plastic pieces and painting! I have a couple paint schemes in mind and I'll lay them out below. Let me know what you guys think would look the coolest.

    The first scheme is Kenneth M Taylor's P-40. He was one of the two pilots who got airborne during Pearl Harbor and scored 4 kills (the movie Pearl Harbor is based around these two pilots). The second is one of the AVG's Chinese Flying Tigers with the iconic tigershark nose art. And the third is a scheme from Tunisia. It's a pretty unique scheme, if I do say so myself. I really can't decide myself, so I am open to opinions.

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  2. #32
    Skill Collector rockyboy's Avatar
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    I've never seen that Tunisia scheme before - that's very sharp looking!
    I want YOU to join us in the 2018 Flite Test Forum WWII Design/Build Challenge!

    My hanger listing, build threads, conversion projects, and Taranis radio mods are Over Here....

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Fly View Post
    To say the least I am very pleased with how it turned out. There is something oddly satisfying about looking at a skinned airplane!
    I couldn't agree more. I think this is my favorite part about building tissue planes. That moment when it is all skinned and shrunk and before final assembly or paint. Your efforts look really good!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Fly View Post
    I am going to try and run out to my LHS and pick up some Eze Dope to harden the tissue. Now I have to start thinking about adding the plastic pieces and painting! I have a couple paint schemes in mind and I'll lay them out below. Let me know what you guys think would look the coolest.

    The first scheme is Kenneth M Taylor's P-40. He was one of the two pilots who got airborne during Pearl Harbor and scored 4 kills (the movie Pearl Harbor is based around these two pilots). The second is one of the AVG's Chinese Flying Tigers with the iconic tigershark nose art. And the third is a scheme from Tunisia. It's a pretty unique scheme, if I do say so myself. I really can't decide myself, so I am open to opinions.
    I'd vote for Tunisia since it is so unique.

  4. #34
    Sir Fly's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone!

    I am also leaning towards the Tunisia paint scheme, but I'll keep an open mind for a little while more.

    Quick question: I called ahead to check if my LHS had Eze Dope, and it turned out they are closed for most of the month due to construction damage, so I am without dope to cover the tissue. Does anyone know if Modge Podge works as a replacement for dope? I have heard that Elmer's Glue + Water works fine, but I figured I would first try and use an adhesive that is recommended for tissue paper.
    Last edited by Sir Fly; 08-01-2017 at 08:25 PM. Reason: Modge Podge, not Mod Podge ;P

  5. #35

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    Elmer's glue and water will work but it is water soluble. You'll need to seal it after painting (if the paint doesn't seal it) to mitigate humidity in the air or dew on the grass.

  6. #36
    Sir Fly's Avatar
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    I tested the Elmer's/Modge Podge + water concoction and it had some adverse effects that I was not looking for. Fortunately, I only tested it on the horizontal stab and the battery hatch, so it shouldn't be too noticable. For some reason the tissue on both sides of the stab stuck together in the middle between the stingers and the tissue on the battery hatch seemed to sag a little bit, even though I put on the "dope" as lightly as possible. I tried tightening both pieces with the alcohol and water treatment, and that proved ineffective.

    So I am not going to use that method anymore and I will just order some Eze Dope on Amazon when I get around to it. Hopefully that can fix some of the issues I am seeing. If not, I will go ahead and paint it and try to cover up the problems. If that doesn't work, I'll cut off the tissue and try again.

    Does anyone else have a solution for this?

  7. #37
    A Severe Lack of Sense
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    I've had some reasonably good luck with elmers glue and water, at least for providing a nice and stiff tissue covering. 2-3 coats goes a long way. But as noted, it's not water resistant.

    My usual process is to use a colored glue stick and apply that to the airframe. I use that to tack on the paper. Being sticky, you can pull most of the slack out of the paper before the glue stick hardens. Then I shrink the paper, I usually do that with a water/alcahol spray in a spray bottle. Then I have been using thinned elmers glue to provide the paper with some strength.

    I wonder if thinned wood glue would work? It comes in waterproof varieties.

    ........... this is frustrating. This was all common knowlege in the 50's. Nowdays? "if it's not ultracote, it's crap!"
    Flys up to 50 feet!

  8. #38
    Sir Fly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
    ........... this is frustrating. This was all common knowlege in the 50's. Nowdays? "if it's not ultracote, it's crap!"
    LOL

    Yeah That is exactly what I did. But when I went to apply the thinned Elmer's glue, the whole thing started sagging and all the slack came out. It didn't soak in or something.

  9. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Fly View Post
    I tested the Elmer's/Modge Podge + water concoction and it had some adverse effects that I was not looking for. Fortunately, I only tested it on the horizontal stab and the battery hatch, so it shouldn't be too noticable. For some reason the tissue on both sides of the stab stuck together in the middle between the stingers and the tissue on the battery hatch seemed to sag a little bit, even though I put on the "dope" as lightly as possible. I tried tightening both pieces with the alcohol and water treatment, and that proved ineffective.

    So I am not going to use that method anymore and I will just order some Eze Dope on Amazon when I get around to it. Hopefully that can fix some of the issues I am seeing. If not, I will go ahead and paint it and try to cover up the problems. If that doesn't work, I'll cut off the tissue and try again.

    Does anyone else have a solution for this?
    Re-wet the areas that are stuck together to reactivate the glue (assuming it's water or alcohol soluble). Then, as it dries, gently twist the tail surface back and forth. You have to be careful not to over stress the wood and it can take 5-10 minutes of work. No guarantee but it's worked for me in the past. It has also not worked some times but it's worth a shot!

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