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  1. #41
    Toothpick glider kid foamtest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    North East Ohio
    Posts
    136
    It all depends on what battery you can fit inside of there and how heavy you want to make it. If you are looking to make it as light as possible go with the cheap hobbyking one so you can use a smaller battery and still get decent flight times. If you want speed and can fit a larger battery then go for the FMS one. Also take into account if the model would be too under powered with the Hobbyking set up when fully loaded up, if this doesn't apply then just ignore this. Take this all with a grain of salt though because I've never messed around with EDF's before so I'm just using my general knowledge of prop planes to make this assumption.
    There isn't anything a little packing tape and hot glue can't fix.

    Maker of toothpick glider and staple plane.

    Mystery link I bet you won't click it

  2. #42
    Dr. Looping Looie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Germany, Hessen, Diemelsee
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    28
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thats the progress. Actually recocnizeble. Just found out how I can upload pictures from my phone, which meens you will see more. Prozess of making the control surfaces will include some nice tecniques, so be prepaired for this. 3s 2200 fits perfecly in there, and the extra weight of the heavier setup is less then the extra thrust, but I worry with the short wings, on the other hand, the wings are really thick, so I think I will pick up this one that is less expensive.

  3. #43
    Dr. Looping Looie's Avatar
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    Apr 2017
    Location
    Germany, Hessen, Diemelsee
    Posts
    28
    Ok, now we are going to build the control surfaces.
    It will include very advanced techniques that are made to reduce drag and keep the shape as scale as possible. Its not FT-style, but yesterday I found the nerdnic speedwing and this has the same Idea. You can go with more FT-style rudder and elevons, but this would leave a thick trailing edge and could cause problems with the shape. Sadly, this build does not feature so many FT build tecniqes, because round shapes are so important in this model.
    But now lets begin:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    First we need the control surface parts. They have reference lines which should not be cutted, so watch out with laser cutters!(If I am able to create laser cutter compatible plans)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    We peel of the paper a little further than the refference line. Make sure you can see the reference line on the foam core!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cut it along the reference line!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Open it up!
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    Remove the foam core! Also, pull the paper a little more back.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cut a kind of double bevel so that the tip is at the reference line and at half the thickness of the foam core. Check the picture for reference!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now glue it just as shown in the picture! Make sure to pu as less glue as possible in the area f the tip, because this is the area the rudder is moving. Also make sure you spred the glue over the whole surface, because otherwise you might have thick glue mountains in your hinge.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now remove the paper ftom the control surface side!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Bevel and sand it down on both sides like this to create a nice aerodynamic shape. Then glue the paper back to the foam and finish the trailing edge!

    I hope you could follow. If you have questions, ask me!
    Next thing will be joyning the control surfaces to the wings!
    Dont forget to repeat the same process with all three control surfces! Use little glue to make the surfaces move! Also contiue with the sharp trailing edge over the wingtips on the elevons!
    Last edited by Dr. Looping Looie; Today at 07:38 PM.

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