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  1. #41
    Toothpick glider kid foamtest's Avatar
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    It all depends on what battery you can fit inside of there and how heavy you want to make it. If you are looking to make it as light as possible go with the cheap hobbyking one so you can use a smaller battery and still get decent flight times. If you want speed and can fit a larger battery then go for the FMS one. Also take into account if the model would be too under powered with the Hobbyking set up when fully loaded up, if this doesn't apply then just ignore this. Take this all with a grain of salt though because I've never messed around with EDF's before so I'm just using my general knowledge of prop planes to make this assumption.
    There isn't anything a little packing tape and hot glue can't fix.

    Maker of toothpick glider and staple plane.

    Mystery link I bet you won't click it

  2. #42
    Dr. Looping Looie's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thats the progress. Actually recocnizeble. Just found out how I can upload pictures from my phone, which meens you will see more. Prozess of making the control surfaces will include some nice tecniques, so be prepaired for this. 3s 2200 fits perfecly in there, and the extra weight of the heavier setup is less then the extra thrust, but I worry with the short wings, on the other hand, the wings are really thick, so I think I will pick up this one that is less expensive.

  3. #43
    Dr. Looping Looie's Avatar
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    Ok, now we are going to build the control surfaces.
    It will include very advanced techniques that are made to reduce drag and keep the shape as scale as possible. Its not FT-style, but yesterday I found the nerdnic speedwing and this has the same Idea. You can go with more FT-style rudder and elevons, but this would leave a thick trailing edge and could cause problems with the shape. Sadly, this build does not feature so many FT build tecniqes, because round shapes are so important in this model.
    But now lets begin:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    First we need the control surface parts. They have reference lines which should not be cutted, so watch out with laser cutters!(If I am able to create laser cutter compatible plans)
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    We peel of the paper a little further than the refference line. Make sure you can see the reference line on the foam core!
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    Cut it along the reference line!
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    Open it up!
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    Remove the foam core! Also, pull the paper a little more back.
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    Cut a kind of double bevel so that the tip is at the reference line and at half the thickness of the foam core. Check the picture for reference!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now glue it just as shown in the picture! Make sure to pu as less glue as possible in the area f the tip, because this is the area the rudder is moving. Also make sure you spred the glue over the whole surface, because otherwise you might have thick glue mountains in your hinge.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now remove the paper ftom the control surface side!
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    Bevel and sand it down on both sides like this to create a nice aerodynamic shape. Then glue the paper back to the foam and finish the trailing edge!

    I hope you could follow. If you have questions, ask me!
    Next thing will be joyning the control surfaces to the wings!
    Dont forget to repeat the same process with all three control surfces! Use little glue to make the surfaces move! Also contiue with the sharp trailing edge over the wingtips on the elevons!
    Last edited by Dr. Looping Looie; 12-13-2017 at 07:38 PM.

  4. #44
    Dr. Looping Looie's Avatar
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    Ok, now I want to show you how to install your control surfaces to the rest of the plane!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    First we pull off the paper on one side. I m using the top fin piece and the rudder. This piece looks like a F-117 nighthawk, right?
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    We bend it to create a nice shape
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    Now comes the special part: bevel and sand the trailing edge down so that there is half of the foam removed where the control surface are attached to it, so the control surface and wing are nice and flush. We also remove foam from the top or wingtip to allow it to become a sharp edge. And sand the foam down to zero at the back of the trailing edge, so that everything is smooth. You may have to work a little, but make sure it looks the same on both sides.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    On the wings, remove extra foam for the nozzle. But we will talk about that later.
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    Now we glue the control surface to the wing on one side. Tip:
    Sand the brown paper before you glue it, because it will stick way better.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Apply glue to the trailing edge and other side of control surface hatch and close it to get the nice shape. Always check for good movement of the control surfaces.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now take the rocket nozzle and cut a hole in the back of the fin. I want the nozzle to stick out a little, so i made my hole not that big.
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    Now glue the nozzle to the back and it looks amazing! You could probobly add a little rocket to the back to arcive insane speeds!

    So, thats it. I hope the new way of installing control surfaces works nice. Next will be about making the construction stronger and putting the wing halves together.

  5. #45
    Toothpick glider kid foamtest's Avatar
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    Wow, this thing is amazing! I can't believe the amount of detail you can get out of foam board. Well done!
    There isn't anything a little packing tape and hot glue can't fix.

    Maker of toothpick glider and staple plane.

    Mystery link I bet you won't click it

  6. #46
    Dr. Looping Looie's Avatar
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    Thank you
    I want to get as much detail out of a simple delta as possible, because you dont expect much details and functions on a delta.

  7. #47
    Dr. Looping Looie's Avatar
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    Thank you
    I want to get as much detail out of a simple delta as possible, because you dont expect much details and functions on a delta.

  8. #48
    Dr. Looping Looie's Avatar
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    The following funktion is optional and needs LEGO technic suspension and 1.5mm plywood
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I cut out a few parts like ft mini firewall, mini control horns and pieces with a hole as big as the hole in the springs and connected them using a LEGO part
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    Here they are in detail
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    I also made a landing skid and formed a curve using water and sandpaper
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    Then I removed a section as big as the landing skid from the bigger part
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    The wooden piece fits perfectly in there
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    Now I applyed the springs to the skid using hot glue. Make sure you apply the hot glue on the outer edge od the smaller piece, si that the springs can move
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    This is where it should go later
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    The skid should be operatrd by a servo that is connected to the spring. Thats difficult to explane, i will show you a picture soon . The skid shoul extend forword so that the shocks absorbe both the energy from moving forword and going down.

  9. #49
    Dr. Looping Looie's Avatar
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    I hope you like it. If it doesnt work on this plane, slap on some wheels and you have the nicest bomber landing gear ever!

  10. #50
    Skill Collector rockyboy's Avatar
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    Love the sprung skid idea! Any idea what the sweet spot will be for weight with those lego parts? I could see them being useful for other scratch build designs too.
    I want YOU to join us in the 2018 Flite Test Forum WWII Design/Build Challenge!

    My hanger listing, build threads, conversion projects, and Taranis radio mods are Over Here....

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