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  1. #41
    I think your covering can easily straighten the wing. I've put in a fair bit of washout, on wings that appear to be more rigid than your wing.

  2. #42
    Tench745's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JUSS10 View Post
    Are you working on a real plane or a balsa version?

    Good to see that about the wing. Not sure I'll change it at this point though as it looks ok to me.

    I didn't think about being able to straighten it with the wing struts. That may actually work. It takes very little first to straighten. It was built flat, just sprung back when I was done. I know it was due to a warped plywood spar. I should have just used balsa like it said.

    I'm thinking i may try and fix this wing and add a bit of bracing and see if I can get it to flatten out. Will be a good piece to learn covering on as well.
    Real thing. I've got 10 of 26 wing ribs built.
    Also, I agree with Rovers that the covering should help twist things back into shape too.
    Hangar: Hobbyzone Champ, Speedster, Curtiss Jenny, FT Scout, Cafe Air Racer Mk II, Bluntnose Versa, Eachine H8 mini quad, ZMR 250 quad.
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    Deceased:Cafe air racer 78, flying wing built from crashed air racer, FT Flyer Guillows FF P-51D

    "Who wants to life a life imprisoned in safety?" Amelia Erhart (from the movie, Amelia)

  3. #43
    I like Biplanes JUSS10's Avatar
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    So I went out and bought some tightbond II. This may be a dumb question, but how do you guys "use" it. So CA flows and i get that. Is there any tricks to using tightbond? Do you use it straight, do you cut it? Methods for applying and gluing joints? I'm trying to teach myself patience and I feel like tightbond is a good way to do that. Also gives me time to fix things in setup.

    So what I haven't stated about this build is that it all started with a small 23" stick and tissue model of the same plane my wife got me for my birthday quite a few years back. I have since duplicated the whole kit with new balsa, redrawn plans, laser cut bits, etc. I just couldn't get myself to cut up the original kit in all its vintage glory.

    Anyway, I started building the fuse sides from square balsa sticks and titebond. Seems to be going well but just want to make sure I'm doing it right.

    Thanks for all the advise so far!

    Justin

  4. #44
    Skill Collector rockyboy's Avatar
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    For balsa to balsa joints with Titebond I usually go full strength applied with a toothpick or scrap of balsa so I don't go overboard with it. I put a little dab of glue on a bottle lid or plastic packaging as a glue pot to work from.

    If you go down the tissue covering method instead of iron on covering, then I water the glue down till it's about the consistency of heavy cream or half-and-half and brush it onto the balsa, then lay the covering over top, and then often dab a little extra on the joint from the top - but only around the outside edges of the covering. Then do your spray bottle water misting to shrink it, and then if needed do some extra glue tacking in the middle.
    I want YOU to join us in the 2018 Flite Test Forum WWII Design/Build Challenge!

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  5. #45
    A thousand pints of lite. Joker 53150's Avatar
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    I like to use a small paintbrush for applying the Titebond, which can be cleaned up with water.
    Joker

    Balsa dust is a wonderful thing, make some today!

  6. #46
    Aviation Enthusiast nhk750's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JUSS10 View Post
    So I went out and bought some tightbond II. This may be a dumb question, but how do you guys "use" it. So CA flows and i get that. Is there any tricks to using tightbond? Do you use it straight, do you cut it? Methods for applying and gluing joints? I'm trying to teach myself patience and I feel like tightbond is a good way to do that. Also gives me time to fix things in setup.

    So what I haven't stated about this build is that it all started with a small 23" stick and tissue model of the same plane my wife got me for my birthday quite a few years back. I have since duplicated the whole kit with new balsa, redrawn plans, laser cut bits, etc. I just couldn't get myself to cut up the original kit in all its vintage glory.

    Anyway, I started building the fuse sides from square balsa sticks and titebond. Seems to be going well but just want to make sure I'm doing it right.

    Thanks for all the advise so far!

    Justin
    I use Titebond II straight and apply with wood coffee stir sticks from Starbucks, that I obtain occasionally if I purchase a cup of coffee. I love Titebond II and it works great with no fumes and I think it makes a much stronger and longer lasting bond than CA. Plus, you have a long working time and it is easy to wipe off excess with a finger or paper towel. I still use CA and epoxy when needed, but for the most part just Titebond II.
    Too many airplanes and not enough time...

  7. #47
    Illegal Squid Fighting? agentkbl's Avatar
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    I'm building my MercurE with titebond II (build update coming shortly), and man. that stuff is magic. it's really tough, but when you're me and make a mistake, it's still soft enough to cut without destroying your plane.
    "Fold the parts up till it looks like a plane, glue it so it stays that shape, screw in a motor and some electronics and toss it in the air."
    -Aviator08

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    Hangar: Ultra battered FT Pietenpol. it flies great! me, not so much.

  8. #48
    I get a little bottle like this from a craft store.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	F2040F57-57D5-4245-B8F5-F6A2FF2768E5.jpeg 
Views:	0 
Size:	1.74 MB 
ID:	99084

    They work great for titebond II. Precise application too.

  9. #49
    Aviation Enthusiast nhk750's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roversgonemad View Post
    I get a little bottle like this from a craft store.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	F2040F57-57D5-4245-B8F5-F6A2FF2768E5.jpeg 
Views:	0 
Size:	1.74 MB 
ID:	99084

    They work great for titebond II. Precise application too.
    Thanks for this! I was trying to figure out better ways to dispense, I'm off to Joanne's for some bottles!
    Too many airplanes and not enough time...

  10. #50
    Tench745's Avatar
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    I will oftem use one of those plastic Testors paint brushes with the white handle and black bristles since they're pretty useless for any kind of painting I do. I apply either straight, or water it down just a bit to give a longer working time. When it's spread thin the balsa can suck away the moisture pretty quickly and make your glue dry before you're ready for it. This is particularly useful if you're sheeting something, or building an otherwise complex or large assembly. You can also brush a little thinned glue over a finished joint to add some extra strength.
    Hangar: Hobbyzone Champ, Speedster, Curtiss Jenny, FT Scout, Cafe Air Racer Mk II, Bluntnose Versa, Eachine H8 mini quad, ZMR 250 quad.
    Workbench: Progressive Aerodyne Searey, Cafe Air Racer Mk III
    Deceased:Cafe air racer 78, flying wing built from crashed air racer, FT Flyer Guillows FF P-51D

    "Who wants to life a life imprisoned in safety?" Amelia Erhart (from the movie, Amelia)

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