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  1. #181
    Skill Collector rockyboy's Avatar
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    May 2015
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    Could always hack in a little Pololu voltage regulator to power the UMX servos with 3.2v from the 5v off the RMILEC.

    I mean, if you're going way over the top anyway, why stop now?
    I want YOU to join us in the 2018 Flite Test Forum WWII Design/Build Challenge!

    My hanger listing, build threads, conversion projects, and Taranis radio mods are Over Here....

  2. #182
    Builder Extraordinare willsonman's Avatar
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    Link? I was just thinking about putting a couple of diodes in place.
    "It'll fly... probably"

    Current active build:
    Top Flite 60 size F4U Corsair
    Shameless YouTube plug

  3. #183
    Aviation Enthusiast nhk750's Avatar
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    Wow, very impressive! You will need a complex rating to fly that thing, lol.
    Too many airplanes and not enough time...

  4. #184
    Skill Collector rockyboy's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The whole line of these little guys are here:

    https://www.pololu.com/category/209/...age-regulators

    You can also get some versions from places like GetFPV

    https://www.getfpv.com/pololu-3-3v-5...BoCUB8QAvD_BwE
    I want YOU to join us in the 2018 Flite Test Forum WWII Design/Build Challenge!

    My hanger listing, build threads, conversion projects, and Taranis radio mods are Over Here....

  5. #185
    Builder Extraordinare willsonman's Avatar
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    Many thanks! That is an option as well.
    "It'll fly... probably"

    Current active build:
    Top Flite 60 size F4U Corsair
    Shameless YouTube plug

  6. #186
    Builder Extraordinare willsonman's Avatar
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    Wrapping up the flaps we use steel rods inserted into the outer flaps that move freely in a out of the inner flap.
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    And deflected.
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    The push rod for the flaps is now internal. I drilled a pilot hole and then a 1/4" hole that took me right down to the wing skin. Two layers of 1/64" ply were CAed together to make the horn and the metal clevis can be adjusted inside the wing servo bay for each set of flaps.
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    Next I moved on to the tip blocks. They started as just that... blocks. I drew center lines all round and traced the wing profiled onto the block. I then planed down the top/bottom of the block to the rough shape. I glued using Titebond II and then planed more to give the taper. and then finally using a sanding bar for final shaping and blending into the leading edge. The leading edge was also shaped.
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    The other side. Sanding around the pitot tube was tricky but not impossible.
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    I cut the aileron stock to length. and traced the wing profile to the aileron LE and the side. I used the plans to define the curvature of the aileron at the tip. The bulk of the shaping was done with the planer again.
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    Very happy with the curve and verified that it is nearly perfectly scale.
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    An idea for size. The wing is on the floor and I'm 5'9" tall.
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    The main bulk of the build is nearly done now. Just a few things to wrap up this week. Many more fun things to come.
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    "It'll fly... probably"

    Current active build:
    Top Flite 60 size F4U Corsair
    Shameless YouTube plug

  7. #187
    Builder Extraordinare willsonman's Avatar
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    The Ailerons are done. Due to a busy life I forgot to snag pics of the aileron push rod setup so I'll snag some later and describe how it all gets done. For now, lets move on to how I did this scale setup.

    The first thing to do is use a dremel and carve out a pocket where the aileron goes. As you get to the taper of the wing tip you need to use a #11 blade to cut away the balsa. Make sure to put your reference lines for the hinge locations on the bottom side so that you can transfer the line back to the pocket once it is carved out. Then mark a center line for where the hole for the hinge should be drilled. Drill the hole and you need to use your #11 again to widen the opening for the hinge.
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    Using the same reference marks on the wing, tape your aileron in place and mark the aileron where the hinges go. Drill holes for the hinges and then countersink the holes with 1/4" bit so that the knuckle of the hinge sits into the aileron by about 3/16". Don't forget to widen the hole to account for the taper of the hinge.
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    Once you have the hinges worked out you need to then do your fine adjustment of the fitment. Sanding shaping, planing... it all needs to be done so that you have proper deflection, 1/2" up and down. This is mostly done by shaping the aileron, not really the pocket, but you do want to try and make the top and bottom lips of the pocket as thin as you can. I went to about 1/64" using sandpaper and the tip of my finger. Here is how she looks with the ailerons hinged.
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    I got heavy-handed. Just showing that I do make mistakes.
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    And fixed.
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    "It'll fly... probably"

    Current active build:
    Top Flite 60 size F4U Corsair
    Shameless YouTube plug

  8. #188
    Builder Extraordinare willsonman's Avatar
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    I know I know. I need to update this more. Been an eventful couple of days.

    Really quick. I wanted to cover the aileron control rod. Just Drilled a hole and made it bigger and then squared it off for the clevis. Piece of ply for the horn and that's really it. Pretty simple stuff but much more difficult to do on smaller aircraft.
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    Next we wrap up the bulk of the build by smearing epoxy all over the firewall and taping it into submission for a good long while.
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    Then you pop on the 4 blocks and the rear part of the cowl (ring) and the front part of the cowl and you are done the bulk of the project.
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    Just a few more angles so look overall.
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    This one you can see where I've started on the 3D printed dummy radial. Without the motor in-hand I'm not sure if it is sized right just yet but it fills out the cowl fairly well.
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    "It'll fly... probably"

    Current active build:
    Top Flite 60 size F4U Corsair
    Shameless YouTube plug

  9. #189
    Builder Extraordinare willsonman's Avatar
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    Ok so for the cowl flaps we start by cutting them into segments and then cut them off the cowl ring. I sanded in a bevel to the trailing edge so that bending on the hinges would be fairly simple. This picture is obviously after the fact but it illustrates the amount of cutting with the razor saw I had to do. The hinges are from old floppy disks. Cut them up after they have been roughed up with sandpaper and they make perfect lightweight hinges.
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    Then I put tiny segments of nylon push rod tubing on each segment of the flaps. I bent the nylon push rod to make a good circle and installed two servos to do the pushing. One has a reverser in it. I could do this with one servo but it works in sort of a ripple effect and using two servos really takes that out.
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    And here you can see there is actually a big difference in cooling for the motor with the flaps open. I'm pretty stoked about this. First time I've ever done this and nailed it the first time.
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    "It'll fly... probably"

    Current active build:
    Top Flite 60 size F4U Corsair
    Shameless YouTube plug

  10. #190
    Aviation Enthusiast nhk750's Avatar
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    Sep 2016
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    Seattle, WA
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    All I can say is WOW. I would like to see a video of them working. Nice job.
    Too many airplanes and not enough time...

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