I've been flying helicopters for 4 months or so now, but when I saw the Baby Blender a few months back, I decided that I had to build it. (I have a lapsed PPL and used to fly Pitts, so have a soft spot for biplanes).
The build itself was very easy, but it took a while to get all the right connectors, etc and with good weather forecast for the weekend, I had to fudge the control rods a little in order to get it to work. (I'll tighten that up later).
I have flown planes a fair bit on the simulator but for all intents and purposes this was going to be my first RC (plane) flight and I was kinda expecting it to end in distaster.
The grass was tall for taking off, so I had my buddy hand launch it (a first for him too) and boy, did it go a lot faster than expected.
It was instantly obvious that the field really wasn't big enough for my skills, but throttling back, I could still mostly control it and did a couple of rough circuits before deciding that that the field really wasn't big enough and made a reasonable soft landing. (tall grass, so it flopped over instantly but no damage).
Next time we'll go to a bigger field and hopefully get through a couple of packs!.
Results 41 to 50 of 158
06-03-2013, 10:05 PM #41
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
06-09-2013, 06:47 PM #42
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
We found a large field today (baseball/softball diamond) and the infield was groomed well enough that I could use it for taking off.
This thing takes off like a rocket!. First flight was nice, but my attempt at adjusting the CG was obviously not right and it was too far back. Still did a handful of circuits (and a loop!). Flopped it back on the ground, adjusted the CG did a couple of more flights.
It loops real nice and has quite good vertical penetration too. I like that it has enough power to get out of trouble too. Several times I got myself pointed the wrong way and could literally just give it full throttle and out.
I find it very tricky to land, though and still haven't quite figured out the correct landing speed/slope yet. It seems to lose a lot of stability and authority once the throttle is off.
06-09-2013, 06:52 PM #43
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Santa Rosa Beach, Florida, United States
Where's the pictures?
We'll also accept video.Flite Fest 2015. Team leaders are picking their crews now. Don't get left out. There's a secret section of the forum, AND we'll have our own section of the camping area. Contact me for details.
TIP STALLS were a myth, until Patrick proved them real!
06-15-2013, 04:46 AM #44
Baby Blender Wings with Dihedral
I built and test flew a Baby Blender V2 and, while I generally liked the plane, others and I found it to be a bit squirrelly in the air.
With short, stubby, flat wings, it had no self-centering capabilities. I thought adding a little dihedral to the wings might help settle down the BB V2.
After viewing the Flitetest FT Spitfire Build video, I decided on building the Baby Blender with 5 degrees of dihedral to both the upper and lower wings. However, I realized that it would be difficult to mount the lower wing to the fuselage with an angle so I decided to have a 4 inch flat center section with the remaining 10 inches on the wings on either side angled upward. I purposefully did not crease the wing at where the fuselage joins the wing but 5/8 inch outside (2 inches off center) because of my concerns for ease of mounting the wing and strength.
I used the stock BB V2 spar template for measurements for the ˝ inch high spar. I drew out a 4 inch long, ˝ inch high center section. Then, at 2 inches off center, I drew the spar bottom line at a 5° angle using a compass, out to 10 inches on either side of the 4 inch center section. I then used the compass to mark 90° off the spar bottom line and drew a perpendicular line of ˝ inch high, the height of the spar. I connected the two marks to draw out the top of the ˝ inch spar for each of the 10 inch, upward angled portions of the wings. I next drew in the 1 inch tabs to fit into the wings at the stock 5 inches in from wing tip (5 inches from wingtip + 1 inch tab + 4 inches to dihedral break + 2 inches to center = 12 inches each side). I repeated this 3 times to make 4 spars, and, after cutting out the 4 spars, glued 2 spars together for each wing. By using a one-piece spar, I hope it will give me greater strength than joining 2 or 3 sections together.
Since the lower wing is the more difficult to prepare, I first prepared the stock lower wing. I had to increase the cutout section between the ailerons by a ˝ inch on both sides to match the dihedral break (A 4 inch cutout instead of a 3 inch cutout.) and added clear packing tape to the leading edge for added strength. To allow for the dihedral, at 2 inches off center on each side, I creased the inside portion of the bottom of the lower wing and cut through the top portion of the lower wing (Marked with barbeque skewers on the photo.).
To assemble the lower wing, after dry-fitting everything to make sure it all fit, I decided it would be easier to fit the center section first, the outer wings sections after that. To make sure everything lines up, I drew 2 parallel lines connecting the 2 holes in the wings for the spar tabs. I hot-glued in the center section, making sure it fit within the parallel lines and matched the break in the wing where the dihedral begins. I then hot-glued in the side spars, one side at a time. The dihedral is now beginning to be formed.
After securing the spar, it was time to build the top of the wing. I first folded over and hot-glued one of the 10 inch sides, followed by folding over and securing the other 10 inch side. This left the 4 inch center section the last to be fitted.
Because of the angle, the space on top for the center section is actually slightly less than the 4 inch bottom. I test fitted the center section and found that I could force it into the opening without trimming the sides but it was a very tight fit. This tight fit should give the wing added strength. You may need to trim or sand the sides to fit, especially if your angle is greater than 5°. To add more strength to the joint, I ran a bead of hot-glue down the 2 seams where the outer wings join the center section, squeegeeing off the excess.
I repeated the same procedure for the upper wing. Because the upper wing does not have the fuselage rail cutouts in the center section like the lower wing top, the center section was almost too tight to fit. Again, I recommend test fitting the center section after constructing the wing ends and trimming or sanding slightly, if necessary.
After painting the wings and wing struts, I assembled the wings just like one assembles the stock BB V2 wings. Although not readily visible, there is a slight dihedral to both the upper and lower wings.
I then mounted the wings to the fuselage, set the control surfaces and checked the throws.
So, did the dihedral help tame the squirrelly nature of the Baby Blender? In a word: Somewhat.
It was a relatively calm morning on the test flight. After trimming out the BB V2, I noted that it was less squirrelly and more stable in flight with the wing with dihedral. Because the wings are short and stubby, it is still a handful in the air and not a sedate trainer. However, with the dihedral in the wing, it is just not as much of a handful. Also, the dihedral wing did not adversely affect the BB V2’s ability to do loops or snap (and I do mean “snap”) rolls.
By the third battery, winds had kicked up to around 7-10 mph. While the Baby Blender is not a big fan of winds, the BB V2 handled better the winds with the wing with dihedral than with a flat wing.
As noted above, I added 5° of dihedral on each side. A greater angle may add more stability but you also start loosing lift.
Now time to print out USAAC “Star and Ball” roundels for the new wings to finish her.
I told Orville it would never get off the ground.
07-04-2013, 09:48 PM #45
- Join Date
- Jul 2013
Hey guys, I was just wondering if its possible to run a 4s 1800mah or 4s 2200mah on the recommended motor (NTM 1200kv)?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
07-15-2013, 07:44 PM #46
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
I had the same problems with mine using the recommended CG. It's too far backwards for sure.
It was hairy getting it under control in the air initially, but once it was trimmed to combat the CG it flew nicely.
Even with the 3s 2200 battery hanging over the fron firewall, it still flew abit tail heavy. Also noticed the 2826 1400kv motor was really hot even on 2s.
So, I used the only low kv motor I had - 960kv 3642 motor to add weight to the front. I changed the prop to a 10x3.8. Now a 3s and 4s can be used. The motor of course handles the power easily. 3S still has some power to get out of a sticky situation, but the 4s truely has enough power I can confidently get out of almost any situation.
Only other mod that worked very well was using coat hanger wire for the landing gear. The regular kit wire was way too weak. 3" light foam wheels were used, and the gear was raked forward significantly to prevent nose overs in the grass.
It flies absolutely brilliantly now. gradual take offs in short grass look pleasingly scale. slow and steady landings make me look like a hero everytime. Wind was probably gusts t0 20km/h. The plane didnt flinch.
I did add a gyro on the ailerons, but feel it didnt help too much.
I was looking for nice looking, flying plane that i could take down to the local soccer field that would fly slow enough. This fits the bill perfectly.
07-29-2013, 07:26 PM #47
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
New field yesterday (it's closer to home), but it had a couple of poles for floodlights in the middle, which did have me a little concerned.
Nevertheless, we flew around for a bit and I started experiement a bit.
- Rudder seems to easily overpower the aileron and needs be dialed way down.
- It makes some real pretty loops.
- I then did some slow circuits, took it down in a wide circuit, planning to go behind the above mentioned pole...and flew straight into it. Straight as spinner exactly dead on and made an almight 'gong' sound and was pretty much a write-off (It could probably be repaired).
Powerpod sheared off the front mount and the rear BBQ skewer made a 2 inch cut through the rear fuselage. The whole nose was similarly compacted, although I actually did get it mostly straightened out.
Both horizontal struts on the wings broke, but the wings themselves are in good condition.
Most amazing of all: The motor seems fine!.I think the fact that the powerpod got sheared off and that nose acted as a crumble zone saved it. One of the power connecters got torn off too (so much for my soldering), so I couldn't fire it up again, but other than that the powerpod is good.
I did have a handful of modifications/decorations in mind, so this will actually make it easier to do those.
08-24-2013, 06:29 AM #48
Ahhh.... finally good to be in your forums. Bin watching you guys for years. You guys seem to have the same passion for flight as I do. Big fan of RCPowers and now you guys as well. Been Flying for over 10 yrs but my favorite plane has been this RCP F-15 Eagle. Saw your "Will it blend" video and then your Baby blender video where we got to witness the coming of the baby blender. For some reason my wife really liked that. We have been wanting to build a bipe for a long time so I cant think of a better time to get started. Check out my parts. Blue fff no fancy lazer cut parts here. The hardest part of the build so fer has been tapeing together the 27 pages in such a way so I can cut my patters out but thanks for the free plans.
Last edited by poplharris; 08-24-2013 at 06:45 AM.
08-24-2013, 04:35 PM #49
08-27-2013, 06:25 AM #50