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  1. #21
    Posted a thousand or more times jhitesma's Avatar
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    On the subject of CAD.....

    As far as I know what agentkbl says is accurate - you can keep renewing the free subscription indefinitely. I've used Fusion360 a bit but it doesn't really perform well on any of my computers (most of which are old...but even the macbook air I use for work I get frustrated with it not being snappy.) I do want to spend more time with it though because of it's CAM abilities since there's a post-processor for it to work with my MPCNC.

    I'm not a fan of sketchup...I've done a couple of projects in it and it works. But it's interface just doesn't make sense to me. And it's STL exports are notoriously bad - they tend to have less resolution and frequently have holes in them which makes them un-slicable. Which is partly due to the nature of sketchup itself...it's very easy to accidentally create invalid geometry and it won't alert you and doesn't make it easy to fix. In the interest of being "friendly" they just ignore it and hide it from you. But it can really bite you when you go to export or make changes to a design.

    My two goto cad setups are openscad and onShape.

    For simple things openscad rocks...if you've got a bit of programming background. It's basically a language rather than an app and you code your designs programatically. This is how customizer designs on thingiverse are created - they're just openscad designs with some special variables/hooks that let thingiverse adjust the variables from a web form and generate new STL's. If you've got a good head for math and some programming background then it can be a VERY powerful cad platform.

    But my current goto cad for more complex stuff is onshape. It's browser based and even on my wife's chromebook is usable (about as responsive as Fusion is on my macbook) on my real computers it runs great. On really big projects it can start to get a bit slow but if you focus on working on one element of the design at a time it's not bad at all. They have a ton of tutorials and help articles/videos that teach you how to do good parametric designs that are easy to adjust and change. It's free - but anything you create with the free version has to be public. It's made by the guy who originally created solidworks so it has a lot in common with that (and Fusion360 which is the same style of CAD.) It took me a bit to get the hang of this style of modeling...but once it clicked I really like it. I spent about a week doing the tutorials every night and now I find myself drawing things just because I enjoy drawing them
    Stop in and say hi in the unofficial FT IRC channel!

  2. #22
    Illegal Squid Fighting? agentkbl's Avatar
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    I second OnShape. it got me started in the world of CAD, and, while occasionally slow, Onshape has never failed me yet. which is good, because my only access to F360 is on the family iMac (I run linux on my personal laptop because it's so underpowered. my reason for using F360 is for my paid jobs, I like the workflow a bit better), and OnShape will run seamlessly on my laptop. Which was a $400.00 best buy special. In 2012. as in two windows of chromium max it's ram, and Youtube maxes it's cpu. the system requirements are just so low.
    "Fold the parts up till it looks like a plane, glue it so it stays that shape, screw in a motor and some electronics and toss it in the air."
    -Aviator08

    "Simplicate and add lightness."
    -Tench745

    (I take no credit for the above quotes in my signature. I simply thought they were clever.)

    Hangar: Ultra battered FT Pietenpol. it flies great! me, not so much.

  3. #23
    Posted a thousand or more times jhitesma's Avatar
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    Oh, and the hovalin....

    They went and changed the whole design on it. So I'm debating whether to finish printing what I started or switch to the new design. Trying to finish what I started because atomic retired the filament color I got which is an almost perfect "violin brown" and don't know if I'd have enough to start over.

    But...printing the second half of the body has not gone nearly as well as the first half did. It keeps failing on me Gets a few inches up and then something goes wrong and causes the X axis to jump. And I still don't have a plan on how to print the neck since it won't fit on a 200x200 bed...though with the Y axis upgrade I did on my printer I can now get around 250mm which is plenty...but my heater is still only 200x200 so I'd have to do it without the heater and with a temporary elongated bed. So...keep putting it off. Thankfully my wife is patient and hardly ever bugs me about it. It's only when I start new projects for myself that get a gentle "Um...my violin?" reminder
    Stop in and say hi in the unofficial FT IRC channel!

  4. #24
    Posted a thousand or more times jhitesma's Avatar
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    Well, I spent most of my day dealing with fixing this:

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    Ick. No fun. 2 or 3 years ago the water pump in my truck went out...I usually do my own vehicle maintenance but at the time my daughter was too young to leave unattended and my wife was working weekends. So I paid a friend's neighbor to do it for me. His neighbor is a professional mechanic...but he's like a computer. He does exactly what you ask him to. So if you ask him to replace a water pump...that's what he'll do and nothing else. Having never done the pump on this truck before I had no idea that heater bypass hose was there since it's usually hidden under the AC Compressor and a big aluminum bracket. He didn't bother to remove those since I only asked him to do the water pump and didn't mention the hose. He didn't mention to me that the hose was iffy...maybe it wasn't back then. Bigger problem was even though I gave him fresh coolant apparently he only refills vehicles with straight water because he doesn't want to risk adding the wrong coolant since the old green stuff and new orange stuff don't play nice. He didn't mention that to me. I found out awhile later when I topped it up before summer and found brown rusty water instead of coolant So apparently it's been seeping from under the thermostat and that hose failed...and even though I've drained the radiator twice and refilled it the damage was done as it's still nasty as anything in there. (The truck is an 89 with over 230k miles on it...so lots of stuff is starting to fail just from age as well.)

    Long story short I got to spend most of the day doing it all right. $200 in parts and most of my day gone...but no more leaks, flushed and filled with real coolant, and basically everything but the radiator replaced.

    While I was doing that...I let the printer work on this:

    https://www.myminifactory.com/object...chine-v2-51408

    My first "all cura" project. I stumbled across the project earlier in the week and thought it looked like fun. Since I've been wanting to put cura through it's paces it seemed like a good subject. It's not done yet...I need to redo the "jar" with better settings but:

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    Other than the issues with the clear part not having good settings....I'm pretty happy with it.

    One thing I did notice is that cura is really good at supports. I'm still not huge on cura overall but it's supports are WAY easier to remove than any I've done with slic3r. And this print needed supports on almost every piece. So that was nice.

    (I will say supports in slic3r work great for me with ABS. But in PLA...I VERY seldom get supports that can be easily removed and even when they do come off they leave scars and other issues...so I try to avoid support like the plague.)

    These were hands down the best PLA supports I've ever printed with my machine.

    Now...time to unwind by testing some other settings for the jar part to see if I can get it to print more clear. Big problem is the best clear prints in my experience are all single wall vases....and this can't be printed in vase mode and requires at least two walls to support itself. So...going to take some experimenting.
    Stop in and say hi in the unofficial FT IRC channel!

  5. #25
    Site Moderator JimCR120's Avatar
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    So that's not a very realistic print of an engine? Is it too soon to joke about your pains? 230K?! You, sir, are certainly getting your money's worth.

    Why not single wall vase mode? What's the mode good for otherwise? Also, do you like clear PLA prints for canopies? I just ordered more PLA including some clear. The FT store has 7 different .5kg spools which I think fits my wallet and storage concerns.

    I've noticed in the Cura software through USB I can make adjustments on the fly. Have you ever started a print on something but away from the bed? It seems like it could be done and I was thinking if heat was an issue I could gently preheat with a hairdryer or very gently with a heat gun. Thoughts? I also saw on the printer control options to tune. Have you used these or something similar?

    I printed a spool cradle but don't like it. I like the idea of a cradle big enough for 2 spools of 1kg filament but this one just didn't work. I think I'll mod it with some actual steel hardware (bearings). I chose not to put a holder on top the printer cross brace because though it would save on space and put it in a convenient spot, that high cg weight doesn't seem like a good idea for something that depends on a certain degree of stability.

    I've been stretching my 3D wings a bit. With the threaded nut & bolt behind me I did a recorder that looks great though checks a bit sharp o my tuner app. Maybe I'll tune it but then again, I'm not very musically inclined or disciplined. Nevertheless it's there for my niece to practice at home. The print going right now and since last night and up to later tonight is the front dome part of a roman helmet. It took a while to get the print to start well. Flipping it to a flatter side has made all the difference as did a trip to Rite Aid for some genuine Aqua Net. It seems it's those first several layers that are the crucial point. If I get the first few mm then the rest usually goes very well (except that recorder, uff! Don't you just hate coming home to a mess of 3D scribble and a PLA caked nozzle?) We're doing an outdoor live nativity at our church and I'm going to be a roman centurion. Hopefully I'm successful with the helmet and insulating it. The snow finally started coming down last night and more is on the way. 13 hours done, about 1/2 way there. This print is my largest so far. There's a satisfactory feeling knowing this thing is working (and not scribbling) behind the scenes while I'm on something else.
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    Meanwhile, 4 days until my better half returns from across the pond. So needless to say I've got some cleanin' to do. And I'm feeling flu symptoms. Time to go lay down.
    Truths in life:
    1) Everything that happens happens for a reason. Luck does not exist.
    2) In this existence we are part of the problem or part of the solution. The choice is ours.
    3) We aren't defined by our circumstances but by our reactions to them. Crisis reveals character.

  6. #26
    Posted a thousand or more times jhitesma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimCR120 View Post
    So that's not a very realistic print of an engine? Is it too soon to joke about your pains? 230K?! You, sir, are certainly getting your money's worth.
    I'd say jokes are welcome...but...this morning running errands things got worse. Lost all my coolant somewhere between the engine and transmission. My best guess is a freeze plug rusted through And I don't have time to tackle that today so looks like I'm riding my bike to work all week.

    Why not single wall vase mode? What's the mode good for otherwise? Also, do you like clear PLA prints for canopies? I just ordered more PLA including some clear. The FT store has 7 different .5kg spools which I think fits my wallet and storage concerns.
    Only works on prints that can be done with a single perimeter the whole way...and this part has a base that's too complex to print in vase mode. The whole thing is fairly poorly designed though...it's one of those "art prints" not engineered. The jar prints with two walls...so it's hard to make it even remotely clear.

    I've noticed in the Cura software through USB I can make adjustments on the fly. Have you ever started a print on something but away from the bed? It seems like it could be done and I was thinking if heat was an issue I could gently preheat with a hairdryer or very gently with a heat gun. Thoughts? I also saw on the printer control options to tune. Have you used these or something similar?
    Never really felt a need to tune on the fly. Can think of a few ways to do it...but I'd rather just restart a print than have to adjust it part way through.

    I printed a spool cradle but don't like it. I like the idea of a cradle big enough for 2 spools of 1kg filament but this one just didn't work. I think I'll mod it with some actual steel hardware (bearings). I chose not to put a holder on top the printer cross brace because though it would save on space and put it in a convenient spot, that high cg weight doesn't seem like a good idea for something that depends on a certain degree of stability.
    Yeah, I have mine on top but my machine is a lot shorter, on the CR-10 I wouldn't want a spool up top.
    Stop in and say hi in the unofficial FT IRC channel!

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