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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2013
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    Houston, TX
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    721

    Mustang7302's Bat Bone Build Log

    For the past several weeks I have become interested in building a tri-rotor. I love the videos that the FliteTest group does and have spent countless hours watching too many of their videos for both entertainment and absorbing knowledge. So it was only logical that I would show my love the FliteTest guys by waiting for their release of the Bat Bone frame.

    I will post updates as things arrive (including when the order was placed and its total), pictures of the build process, little tips or tricks I use, and answer questions. Here are the parts I have currently planned to use; however things could change...

    Update: An updated powerplant was used to eventually get this frame into the air. Please see the following post for details - http://forum.flitetest.com/showthrea...ll=1#post82338.

    Frame:

    Flight Controller

    Powertrain

    Battery

    Transmitter / Receiver



    Minus the transmitter, battery charger, and extra spairs; this build is about $300 for the major parts. However that doesn't cover things like connectors, extra wire, heat shrink, velcro, zip ties, servo extensions, and programming/flashing (for FCB and ESCs) tools which I estimate to be an additional $60 so far.

    Thanks again to the FliteTest crew for doing such great work in their videos, articles, and store!

    Updates:
    1. Bat Bone frame, Rotor Bones mounts, Rotor Bones booms, and a T-shirt arrive from Flite Test!
    Last edited by Mustang7302; 01-28-2014 at 02:55 AM.

  2. #2
    not bad choices- if this is your first multirotor i would definitely look at dumping the cf props and go for some gemfans. 4s batteries arent cheap either....it looks like your locking yourself into 4s with that motor also. itll run in 3s but im sure youll be swingin 13" plus to get viable thrust with a 3s. another thing i noticed is you are well set into parts that cant be had in the us as far as components go, if you're ok with having to wait 3 weeks plus for replacement parts then your good, otherwise i might look to another vendor with more readily available stuff as far as the motor/esc/servo goes. i use sunnysky 2216-800 and as far as quality goes id put them up against anything in the hk shop, and when i need parts theyr'e to my door within the week granted theyre a little more expensive but if you put time and quality into the equation its a no brainer. the turnigy stuff is generally of good quality but if somethign happens and you need customer service or a part, youre either just plain screwed in case of warranty or your gonna wait a month plus to receive your stuff.
    i order from hk out of neccessity only- as in kk2 board and random items i dont mind waiting forever for.. id rather pay a little more and have the product before the season is over lol.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2013
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    Houston, TX
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    721
    I will be buying plenty of spare props when I place the order with them; and at $1.35 each I am not going to be terribly upset when I inevitably break one. Once I have run out of props from that initial order and want something quicker, I will be at the mercy of what ever the local RC Hobby shop has.

    Running calculations with the eCalc; I found that the 800kv motor with a 4000mAh 4S battery swinging the 10x4.5 prop gave me the combination of power (<=40% throttle for hover) and efficiency (10-15 minute flight time) I was looking for. I could have gone with a faster motor with a smaller prop, but found many combinations to be less efficient on battery consumption. I will be very eager to see that these calculations translate into the real world like I hope.

    I've used Hobby King to source and build a spec sheet of parts because they have the best selection and ease of navigation of any site I have looked at. The few american based sites I have looked at had motors for three times the price and a dismal selection. If there is another vendor who has a good selection and decent pricing, please let me know!

    Additionally, this is going to be a drawn out build. Trying to keep the wife happy by spreading out orders to be <$150 each; which would be at least eight weeks the expenses are spread out over. I already have the transmitter and receiver, just ordered the HK KK2.0 FC and FliteTest parts this week, and probably wont order Motors/ESCs/Props/Servo for another two weeks. Beyond that order is two more for the small parts and batteries/charger.

  4. #4
    Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
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    Beware that the rotor bones construction method does not lend itself well to larger motors than it was designed for. It should be constructed with motors of about the same spec as the original. Large thrust can pull apart the snap lock assembly's. You could of course glue them.

    Thurmond
    All people either serve the devil or God.
    To serve God you must follow his instructions
    because no man can think as God does.
    To serve the devil takes no effort or instruction
    ...just do anything you like.
    Who do you SERVE?

  5. #5
    Junior Member
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    Jun 2013
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    18
    any buddy codde? for the motor

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    18
    I juz bought a motor have a buddy code here. NTM Prop Drive 28-30S 800KV / 300W Brushless Motor (short shaft version)http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?c...3-5FF3E8E42098

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    18
    I have buddy code. You all can use to save money

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2013
    Location
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    Update: An updated powerplant was used to eventually get this frame into the air. Please see the following post for details - http://forum.flitetest.com/showthrea...ll=1#post82338.

    Update 1: Bat Bone frame, Rotor Bones mounts, Rotor Bones booms, and a T-shirt arrive from Flite Test!

    Ordered: Wednesday, June 19th, 2013
    Arrived: Monday, June 24th, 2013
    Order Total (with shipping): $120.40

    The goodies fresh out of the bubble wrap envelope from shipping.
    • 1x Rotor Bones Bat Bone Frame, with Hardware and Battery Straps
    • 1x Straight Rotor Bones Mounts, with Hardware (2 Units)
    • 1x Tilt Rotor Bones Mount, with Hardware
    • 3x 1/2" Square 10" Long Wood Booms (2 Units)
    • 1x Flite Test T-Shirt



    I started off by un-packaging everything and fitting the pieces of the Bat Bone frame together. Ended up holding it together with four of the screws in the center area to keep from loosing the pieces. I then moved on to putting together the Rotor Bones straight mounts.



    There are a lot of little pieces to punch out of the components of the mounts, some of which happen to blast off at the speed of light never to be found again (or until the vacuum finds them). Once everything is punched out, they are fairly straight forward to put together; kinda like a assembling a lego set (for ages 4+) with only the final picture to figure out where each piece goes. Of course I didn't think to see if there were instructions online before I started, but as I type this I took a gander at the article archive and found the Rotor Bones Straight 13-370 BUILD page.

    Having conquered the straight mounts, I moved on to the tilt mount.



    As you can see, there are quite a few more pieces; I rate this lego set for ages 10+. Fairly straight forward to figure out, just be cautious to not lose one of the pieces or tiny hardware pieces. Here is the article for the Rotor Bones Tilt 13-370 BUILD page, which again I found after the fact.

    So now all of the Flite Test bits are assembled and its time to put the parts together for more pictures and a loose mock up.





    Over the weekend I will likely tackle getting the booms drilled for the frame and mount, as well as getting some kind of finish put on the naked wood. It also looks like the KK2.0 flight controller made it into the states yesterday, so I hope to see in the mail box early next week.
    Last edited by Mustang7302; 01-28-2014 at 02:55 AM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tritium View Post
    Beware that the rotor bones construction method does not lend itself well to larger motors than it was designed for. It should be constructed with motors of about the same spec as the original. Large thrust can pull apart the snap lock assembly's. You could of course glue them.

    Thurmond
    That's the second of third time I have seen that mentioned. I have had a hard time figuring out what constitutes a 370 sized motor when looking at the plethora of options out there. I have considered a couple of things I intend to do when the time comes to mount the motors to ensure a strong mount; I will detail these later when I get to those steps.

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz98 View Post
    any buddy codde? for the motor
    I do not have buddy codes at this time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz98 View Post
    I juz bought a motor have a buddy code here. NTM Prop Drive 28-30S 800KV / 300W Brushless Motor (short shaft version)http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?c...3-5FF3E8E42098
    Congrats on the purchase!

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz98 View Post
    I have buddy code. You all can use to save money
    Please keep the soliciting to a minimum in this thread, thanks.

  10. #10
    Misfit Multirotor Monkey Cyberdactyl's Avatar
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    Sep 2012
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    Raleigh, NC
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    2,772
    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang7302 View Post
    I do not have buddy codes at this time.

    Please keep the soliciting to a minimum in this thread, thanks.
    Unless, of course, it's Flitetest products. . .
    Singularity: A future period during which the pace of technological change will be so rapid, its impact so deep, that human life will be irreversibly transformed. Although neither utopian or dystopian, this epoch will transform the concepts we rely on to give meaning to our lives, from our business models to the cycle of human life, including death itself.
    ~Kurzweil

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