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  1. #31

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Monmouth, New Jersey
    Posts
    12
    Hi all, I'm not sure if this question was asked already, as I didn't find it when I searched these forums, so here goes. I wonder how to clean the brush that I use to apply the polyurethane? I suspected this would happen, but was lazy to clean up the brush after applying a test coat of minwax. Figured there must be an easy fix for it, maybe not? I looked elsewhere, and some have said there is no way to get the brush back, and some have recommended paint thinner or mineral spirits. I'm sure people on here must have some experience with this issue. Also, is there an alternative to brushing the minwax?

  2. #32

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Island Als southeast of Jutland, Denmark
    Posts
    292
    Waterbased polyurethane minwax should clean of nicely with, well, warm water! And perhaps a bit of dish soap.

    Polyurethanes are rather difficult to dissolve or remove once hardened, however. Looked around a bit, and people talk about fairly nasty solvents like laquer thinner or MEK (which may not work on all poly paint types) and different types of actual paint stripper chemicals, intended for use on wood or similar surfaces.
    I wouldn't be surprised if your paintbrush itself might not hold up to these solvents/strippers?
    I'd just bin the brush, chalk it up to having been a learning experience, and get a new one. And perhaps fill an old jar with warm soapy water before you start painting next time to dump the brush in, if you don't have time to clean it right away. Should keep it from hardening for quite some time.

    If it's waterbased polycryllic minwax, same thing, warm water and perhaps some dish soap.
    On hardened paint, some note that acetone might work in dissolving it. Or it might sort of just gum it up. I'd probably also bin the brush in this case, it'd honestly have to be a fairly expensive brush to be worth the hassle.

    I hear of people having fairly good experience with using cheap foam brushes, regardless if on wood or model airplanes, but haven't tried them myself as cheap ones appear to be difficult to find over here.
    Last edited by DKchris; 11-12-2017 at 11:40 PM.

  3. #33

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Monmouth, New Jersey
    Posts
    12
    Thanks for the reply! I am using the oil based polyurethane;'cause when I read it, the flitetest article specified not to use water based. Theoretically, even the oil based one should be washed off with soap water when it hasn't dried. I will try it the next time, or use the disposable foam brushes. I'm sure they'd work well. As of now though, I just tested applying it using paper towels. Technically they should work like foam brushes. I'll find out if paper towels worked as well on one wing as the brush on the other wing. Let's see.

  4. #34

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Island Als southeast of Jutland, Denmark
    Posts
    292
    Right, the waterbased kinds supposedly tend to make the paper expand and ripple on dtf. Makes sense. We don't really have dtf over here, so I guess I lack experience on that specific task. The waterbased kind is useful for many other things though, like sealing in airbrush work or covering (less watersensitive) surfaces with cloth, paper or glass fiber.

    Minwax suggest mineral spirits or paint thinner for cleaning the oilbased kind off while unhardened, by the way. Hardened it's more or less the same story as with the waterbased polyurethane.
    Last edited by DKchris; 11-13-2017 at 12:30 PM.

  5. #35

    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    500
    Turpentine or mineral spirits to clean your brush when using the oil based. When I ran out last I ended up finding brushes at the dollar store. A few for $1 so now I use and pitch.

  6. #36

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Island Als southeast of Jutland, Denmark
    Posts
    292
    I did a fast google, and it looks like Walmart will sell you a bag of 20 2" foam brushes for 4 bucks over there. No clue on the quality. Probably other similar offers available.

    Over here it's more like 1-3 bucks a piece......and at 1 buck it's mail order and the freight still cost more than 10 brushes......Wouldn't care what kind of people I'd meet in there, we could really use some stores with that kind of price levels over here

  7. #37
    Rookie Pilot/Builder 647hotrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Barrie
    Posts
    40
    So I should have read this before brushing the stuff on my planes... my glue is now sticky, anyone know if it will ever dry? How is the treated foamboard for cutting with a knife? Should I treat boards before cutting, or before gluing?
    Happy Flying

    Crashed Planes: Scout x2, Fokker DR1, Scout(4 channel), tiny trainer pusher, snowball
    Flying planes: SE5 biplane(3rd set of wings), FT flyer, FT delta
    Projects: waterbomber
    Motors: Racerstar 2205-2300kv x2, Racerstar 2212-980kv x4
    ESCs: Flyfun 12ae, simonk 30A, Emaxx BLheli 20A x4
    Props: 6030, 7035, 5048-3, 1045
    Battery: 2S 25C 800Mah, 600mAh 3S 30C
    Servos: MG90s, SG90 servos
    Reciev: Corona R6SF s-fhss, CR4SF s-fhss
    Trans: XK X7(it was free),

  8. #38
    When I use MinWax I only use rub-on and never use a brush to apply. Spray can minWax is OK if you do not over apply. "Rub on wipe off". With the wipe on MinWax you can control this products paper penetration much better. I avoid any water base coatings as they can result in board warp. My experience is to use water based product sparingly and with thought. At present I am working with a Valspar paint product that is foam safe and found it works well to seal the edges and precoat your build. but it does not work well in cold temps. If any paint product can not dry reasonable fast or is over applied it trends to soak through the paper covering and attack the the paper to foam bond. The Valspar product work well if the temp is 70 f or above. We are talking about white board here as brown board has quit different properties. For what it is worth this is from my experience in working with DT board.

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