And god said let there be 5mm foam boards

[Thecoder]

Hello brothers and sister's gatheraround lipo charegers all over the world form extremely lovley and sunny Egypt,
First of all god bless flite test team and the magnificent Sponz for all the great time and plans plan's , second , as most of you do know that FT uses 4mm waterproof foam board,so aside from that both the price and shipping cost of the foam board or FT kits would cost me my left kidney in the black market (1$=18 Egyption pounds) so i have only the locally available China's imported 3mm and 5mm and 10mm foam board that you cant remove its paper or bend it but after all i do mange to work with it and have manged to make a beautiful FT cub for 8 years old my son as a gift and a baby blinder that you can see bellow, but eventually i would be hitting a long wall trying to cut FT plans on it due to differences in B folds and A folds gaps because its all measured to fit 4mm and here comes the question that you have read all of this long story for , what can i do to scale the FT free plans to fit either the 5mm or even the 3mm ones with out pulling the remaining hair from my already on the way great shiny head,
Thats all thank you all my friends and very soon ill share my extremely diy experience to build a beautiful air frames that cost less than 3$ and maybe a maiden videos with the great pyramid and sphinx of giza in the background 😉

 

[PsyBorg]

I don't think it would matter that much really. Just take one of them foam nail files and run it in the slots where your folds would be.

If you think about the fold you are making for example the two folds to make the fuselage. If you sand to the outside of the gap you widen it to make the fold fit properly but do not change the inner dimensions so the power pod will still fit properly. It would only take a little practice to adjust and figure where its best to remove the little bit of extra material for the folds to work properly.

The only real difference is going to be the weight increase over all and that may have a bad influence on available power on some models.

 

[Thecoder]

Thanks @PsyBorg i have done this to an extant but it doesnt alwayes work and things tend to get messy,so hence modifying the markings to make the gap a strick 5mm or 3mm will easy the whole process from the start and will result in a cleaner fitting i guess, also adding 5 to 10 grams to the total Wight wouldn't do mush great difference to the total build.

 

[Hai-Lee]

I build exclusively in 5mm and 3mm FB and there is an old method I used before I started drawing out my own plans.

In the past I used to just cut out the pieces, (without the fold channels), and used to butt glue them together. For strength I then wrapped the plane in clear or coloured packing tape.

2 years later many of the original constructions are still flying. I also found an advantage in this approach in that I have far less scrap pieces of FB now as I can use the off-cuts to construct the smaller prototypes I make and often give away!

Just what works for me

 

[Thecoder]

Great idea @Hai-Lee ,this could really work also helps in more waterproofing the connected parts , actually your idea triggered an old idea of mine to use lite plastic stretche (that is used in sandwiches to fully water and elements prof the whole frame with out approximately no added weight you can literally make it a submarine 😁 and its have zero cost impact on the total build, i have had a success with that in solid smaller parts such as fuselage bottoms that dont have access holes ,thanks brother