BBA/Winter Build 2017/18 - Top Flite Corsair

jaredstrees

Well-known member
Well done sir. Glad that you mentioned family, as with you, mine support me as I started in this hobby and continue to do so. Now my son is showing an interest, so my hope is to spend more family time while enjoying the hobby.

I'm a bit sad to see this coming to an end, as I enjoy following your builds. I look forward to the next one! Again, beautiful plane you've created!
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Well sir if its any thing of value to you. I am sure now I could build a balsa kit and it would be airworthy. The flying it part not so much but I am sure I have seen and learnt enough from you that I could surely do a build.

Looking forward to your next project.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
Josh - fabulous project! The fit and finish of the cockpit is inspirational. I may have to tackle one of these myself now instead of just painting the windows black :D

Well sir if its any thing of value to you. I am sure now I could build a balsa kit and it would be airworthy. The flying it part not so much but I am sure I have seen and learnt enough from you that I could surely do a build.

Hmm.... I've got a kit backlog down here... including a nice Carl Goldberg Eaglet 50. We'll get you flying fixed wing DTFB at FFO this year - maybe balsa by the fall? :D

 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Many thanks fellas. Every project is a labor of love. I said I would not do a major project for awhile and I lied. You just can't keep me out of the workshop for too long.

Next project will likely be another balsa build. I have a kit that the subject... I'm just kind of "meh" about. However I do have an interested party that loves it and it would be an excellent home for it there. Discussions around this one will take place at FF.

Nothing majorly done last night. I tried a 3D printed version of a gunsight and I'm really not very happy with it. I'll likely end up making something from balsa in the puttering around moments in the coming weeks.

I did get the airplane assembled again to check on a few things. One side of the flaps needed a bit more precise centering so I've corrected that. I checked the ailerons to make sure they too were centering. The issue was that there was a lot of play and I isolated that to the rubber vibration mounts on the servos. Removed those and there is only 1-2 mm of play now. Much much better and should fix the issue I had on maiden. I need to program some differential. I'll probably start at 10% and see how she goes.

I checked my elevator expo and reduced it to 40% from 60%. I also noticed that while the throw was the correct distance, the surface was bottoming out at around 70% of my stick movement. I adjusted my endpoints and I get full stick movement now for the full deflection.

I looked at the retracts too. On the maiden I realized that I had not thought about how the front doors are an air dam and were slightly preventing the gear from fully locking down as soon as I had anticipated. I adjusted the air valve so that they extend much quicker and should be able to overcome the resistance from the front doors.

I inspected the tail gear and everything seemed to be alright. I still do not trust it 100% as it only has one flight on it. The cool thing is that I know I can replace/repair it fairly easily if it does fail.

I think the last thing I WANT to do is to set some logic switches up to warn me of my airspeed. I need to do some reading to get that done. I'm assuming it would be the same as a battery alarm but with different numerical values and the airspeed sensor as the source.
 

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
Crazy that the slop was coming from the vibration dampeners on the servo mount. I've never seen that (assuming the metal inserts are used with them). Since we're flying electric it really isn't that important to use them, but I generally do anyway. From now on I'll be sure to double-check if I'm getting adverse slop in my links because of them.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
I think it had a LOT to do with the linkage arm on the ailerons. Since the arm is so close to the pivot, any movement is exponentially worse on the aileron. If the connection was external I could not see this being any sort of issue.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Work has been kicking me hard lately but I had a bit of time to get the Tx programming for my airspeed warning.

Most tutorials on the web are so focused on battery warnings that it seems that other telemetry modules are overlooked entirely. I'm using logic switches in my Taranis and I am currently running OpenTx 2.1. I know 2.2 is the current version but I've just not had the time or interest to update yet... and the radio still works to my liking. Just two logic switches are needed here. To explain a bit on what we are dealing with here, a= the input and x= the variable. 2.0 is the delay so the airspeed will need to be < 30MPH for at least 2 seconds before the switch is on. This prevents the switch from activating if there is variability in my airspeed at the edge or in windy conditions on approach, or at least softens the hard cut for this switch to be on. So in L1, the airspeed sensor input is < 30MPH and also only active when L2 is active. L2 is active when my throttle cut switch (SF switch) is active. So L1 then is only on when the throttle cut is off AND when my airspeed is less than 30MPH.
IMG_6584.JPG


To get the audio to activate we are setting up a special function just like you would to drop a bomb or indicate that the gear is up or down. The input for this is L1 since it will only be active when L2 is active and the airspeed variable is met. So, when L1 is active, it will simply play the value of my current airspeed reading. The nice thing about this setup is that I get a SINGLE warning and I correct it or not. If I go above 30MPH the switch resets and when I land is will go off again. This alleviates a lot of the nuisance repetition of telemetry readouts I see so much of. YOU fly the aircraft, not the telemetry. I view it like this, if I am in the cockpit and I'm landing I look at the airspeed indicator. It then tells me how fast or slow I need to go ONCE until I check it again. Since I cannot stare at my Tx when I'm flying LOS I need the audio readout for the check. Its a balance of safety and informed flying.
IMG_6585.JPG


With this all set the only thing I need to do is set some aileron differential. I foolishly disassembled the aircraft last night to clean shop, forgetting I need to do this. It should be fairly straightforward, I just need the ailerons to be plugged in to ensure that the differential is applied correctly. Meaning, I want more UP deflection than DOWN. Since down deflection induces drag, it creates a yaw effect and the differential will reduce this. This is why I went with two independent channels for ailerons. Again, I'll start with 10% and see how she goes. More or less can be easily changed at the field.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
I took some time last night to record my voice for the "canopy open" and "canopy closed" commands. Putting those in and setting the programming was fairly easy. I also took my "JO" logo in my avatar and created a startup screen. It looks OK but nothing like what it could on a X10S. Would love one of those but currently cannot justify the cost. The Taranis does everything I need and a bag of chips.

Out of curiosity, I started looking at programming complexity by file size. For reference, my basic trainer has a file size of ~400kb. A more complex model, like the Bugatti, was just over 600. The Corsair is currently sitting at 820. I still need to add a few more things in my programming but I'm currently happy with the setup. I find it hilarious that the programming is over double the size of a standard model.

I had a little bit of damage to repair on the Texan to do and have a couple of 3D printed radials that I could put in her to dress her up a bit. Still just focusing on making little bits of progress here and there to be ready for FF.
 

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
I'm definitely impressed by all the functionality of the Taranis. Good luck on the Texan repairs. She's a sweet flier.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Yes, it is part of the reason, well a LOT of the reason, I ended up purchasing it. I knew I would grow more with it than any other radio. Being able to do stuff for the Corsair has not been hindered at ALL by the Taranis or OpenTX. I'm not going to say that no other radio couldn't do this as I'm not as familiar with other radios, but I've not once had an issue that was too complicated for a guy who does not play nice with software.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Nice summary as well as pointing out crashes do and will happen and that it is expected.

Personally I think you did well flying a plane where the stick moves left and the the plane banks right. :D Just like my maiden of my Dynam Pitts. I had ailerons in the radio reversed from practicing in the sim and changing it in the radio and not the sim then forgetting to swap it back when the weather got good enough to fly. I did check my crap but was negligent in paying attention to the high five method of checking. I was lazy and just looked for equal deflections.

That approach was brutal with them trees right there. Its almost like having to pull up from a dive to get in there properly. Speaks highly to having "Home Field" advantage for sure. Buff out the bruises and get her back in the air. I still can not wait to see this fly at FFO. I just ask you don't do it while I am on duty like for the Bugatti flights last year.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Flights with this one will happen when they can. I too am volunteering and I'll be on the flight line... soooo I'l not likely miss much of the action.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
I love the cockpit view! I hear you on the "be ready to make repairs on these big scratch builds". So far my experience is my bigger scratch builds tend to self-destruct in less than 4 flights - but that's almost all pilot error and I'm hoping to do better :p
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
So, as far as repairs have gone, I'll run down the list of things I've gotten done and whats left.

Done:
Repair and reinforce tail gear: Added CF tow and replaced one pull line for the tail wheel.
Two cowl flaps had loose hinges so those were repaired.
Dummy motor: two jugs came loose and so I fixed the one in the front row and removed all of them from the back row. This lightened the nose by just over 2oz. She is quite nose heavy so here is where we are starting in terms of trying to shed some weight.
Main gear was bent back to shape and there is an air leak AGAIN on the left side but not bad. Main leak was in the main valve. 1/8 turn in for the needle valve solved the air leak.
Pitot tube was bent back, cleaned out, and tested. Seems to be functioning fine. It was then epoxied in place with some filler spackle to smooth out. This needs a touch of finish work but nothing hard.

To do:
All that's left to do is touch up around the pitot tube wing LE and sort out the air leaks on the mains. I may end up running some different tubing but I knew that air retracts would be a pain like this. It's just part of the game. As always, I prefer the electric retracts but the EFlite ones were $200 and these I got for free and are old-school. I'd save some weight but it would be mostly aft of the CG... something I actually need.
 

F106DeltaDart

Elite member
Glad the repairs are coming along well. Very surprised that it turned out so nose heavy. Every Corsair I've ever built or modded has always been the opposite with that short nose up front.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
Well, When I built up the tail, I made every effort to reduce weight back there. I used CA as well as make holes in the control surfaces to shave off every piece of weight back there. I too read about the tendency to be tail heavy so that's why I did it.

LOOOOONG day at work yesterday so nothing new accomplished.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
I had some time to work on the additional air leak situation. I removed the left retract and isolated it to the air cylinder itself. The cylinder is plastic with an aluminum cap. When I used channel locks to press the cap on there was no leak so I knew the seals/o-rings were fine. After trying to unscrew I found that the cap simply pulls off and is only press fit into place.
IMG_6654.JPG

I cleaned out the cylinder and re-lubed the plunger. I used some silicone gasket maker to try and re-seal the cap. After 12 hours of curing the cap popped right off entirely so that was not a fix at all.
IMG_6655.JPG

So, to try something more permanent, I've applied some canopy glue. When cured, that stuff seems to stick to anything so I'm going to leave it for a few days. In the meantime, I'm going to look into ordering a replacement cylinder from Robart. The E-tract option is complicated and expensive... like $200 expensive.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
It seems as though Robart knows this is a typical issue. The replacement cylinder is all aluminum and at $23 each I think I'll just order a replacement set. That way I know I'll be fine for both of these in the future.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
So, after digging further, I found the exact model of retract I had. They are model 615... 95-degree retracts, not 100 as I had originally thought. The measurements and specifications all matched what I had previously observed on my units so I just ordered two of the replacement cylinders. They should arrive in time for me to fix everything up for FF.

The additional observation I made was that they are rated for aircraft up to 10 pounds... Being at 13 on this project and them holding up very well, you really do get what you pay for here. They are super stout and I have no worries about lasting through many more landings. That said, I've purchased gear for other aircraft from overseas and they have NOT held up to their rated weight. Don't get me wrong, Robart retracts are EXPENSIVE but you are really getting a quality product.

I'll also take a moment to remind you that these retracts were basically given to me years ago when a friend moved from AZ to VA and got out of modeling and into full-sized sailing. Having no history of their prior use does put questions in but its safe to say that this investment in new air cylinders will be worth it.