36" Northern Pike - 3D Printed Cuda Clone (It Flies & STL's are Posted!)

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
New set of floats are done. Hopefully I can test them out tomorrow.

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bmizes

New member
Yeah, if you're not planning to do a lot of complex prints, simplify3d might not be worth it. It is so nice for the more complex stuff, or batch prints etc... Adding your custom start code to my files shouldn't be hard, basically just copy and paste. Should be lots of info out there on how to do it.
I did end up finding a solution that didn't involve buying a new laptop or Simplify3d. I downloaded and installed Ideamaker and at least in the preview all of the internal structures are showing. I'm about to try an actual print to verify that this works. I'll post if it does so that anyone else who can't use Cura will have a viable alternative.
 

d4mer

New member
Hi Everyone!!

Got my Pike on the burner as we speak! I have had an issue though. have a look at the pics, it seems one of the fuselage sections printed funny. Any ideas what happened?
 

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localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
Hi Everyone!!

Got my Pike on the burner as we speak! I have had an issue though. have a look at the pics, it seems one of the fuselage sections printed funny. Any ideas what happened?

Well, the two holes on either side are supposed to be there, it's cooling vents for your electronics. The flat bottom is weird though. Did you not have it centered on your build plate or something? I could see that happening if it was overhanging the edge.
 

d4mer

New member
Well, the two holes on either side are supposed to be there, it's cooling vents for your electronics. The flat bottom is weird though. Did you not have it centered on your build plate or something? I could see that happening if it was overhanging the edge.
Well, I think I know what the problem was. My build plate is 300x300 and I may not have changed the dimensions in you factory file.
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
So floats....


The plane doesn't sink at least. Had my rates on the lowest setting and couldn't get off the water.

After drying the plane off, and try again I had slightly more success.



The added weight is just too much for things to stay structurally sound, at least with my flying style lol. I'm gonna hold off on doing anything else to the floats until I have a chance to play more with lighter 3d printable materials. For now, I'll stick with belly landing, and possibly adding retracts.

Plane is in good shape, just busted off the float hardpoints.

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dingo007

Member
Filled the nose sections with expanding PU foam for rigidity because I printed them as hollow shells
what exactly did you use to print as hollow shells ??? Im using simplify3d i see nothing for hollow shells.... or did you modify the STLs ? by the way can you post them for us ??
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
what exactly did you use to print as hollow shells ??? Im using simplify3d i see nothing for hollow shells.... or did you modify the STLs ? by the way can you post them for us ??

I think he used a slicer than couldn't handle the internal spars.

I'm playing with LW-PLA. Parts are coming off the printer at half the weight. Looking very good for very low wing loading. Floats on something light like this would not be an issue.

LW PLA Variant gets an additional spar:

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Stringing can't completely be tuned out, as this stuff is actively foaming, but it doesn't affect parts strength. Its also very easy to clean up.

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Wildthing

Legendary member
I think he used a slicer than couldn't handle the internal spars.

I'm playing with LW-PLA. Parts are coming off the printer at half the weight. Looking very good for very low wing loading. Floats on something light like this would not be an issue.

LW PLA Variant gets an additional spar:

View attachment 150247

Stringing can't completely be tuned out, as this stuff is actively foaming, but it doesn't affect parts strength. Its also very easy to clean up.

View attachment 150250

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I have heard about the LW PLA but haven't tried it yet. Did you have to change the print settings much?
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
I have heard about the LW PLA but haven't tried it yet. Did you have to change the print settings much?

I generally change most of the settings on almost every type of filament I use, so it's not that much different in that respect. It's similar to PETG and polycarbonate in that I tend to run them towards max retraction settings.

The big takeaways would probably be that I up the do not cross outlines setting a ton, and the extrusion multiplyer can drop down to at least 45% of standard.

Nozzle: 0.4mm
Extrusion: 45%
Extrusion Width: .43

Retraction: 1.8mm
Extra Restart Distance: 0.08mm
Retraction Vertical Lift: 0.05mm
Retraction Speed 40.0mm/s
Coasting Distance: 0.20mm
Wipe Distance: 5.00mm
First Layer Speed: 40%
Speed: 60mm/s
Avoid Crossing Outline - 150mm

Bed Temp: 55
Nozzle Temp: 245
Cooling Fan: 100% Starting on layer 2



Coming along well:

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bmizes

New member
I have an assembly question concerning the vertical stabs. It looks like the vertical stab sits on the inner ledge of wing section 2 rather than on the surface of the wing. In order to do that, wing section 3 needs to be cut away along the dotted line. Is that correct? Otherwise, the vertical stab has to sit on the surface of both section 2 and 3. In pic 1, you can see how I've place the stab inside section 2. In pic 2, you can see the dotted line on section 3. Thanks.
 

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dingo007

Member
I have an assembly question concerning the vertical stabs. It looks like the vertical stab sits on the inner ledge of wing section 2 rather than on the surface of the wing. In order to do that, wing section 3 needs to be cut away along the dotted line. Is that correct? Otherwise, the vertical stab has to sit on the surface of both section 2 and 3. In pic 1, you can see how I've place the stab inside section 2. In pic 2, you can see the dotted line on section 3. Thanks.

Yes, cut about 50% of the way in along the dotted line if you look at the wide end youll see where it actually can come off in one piece once cut properly.
 

NeariX

New member
Hey guys. Nearly 3 weeks ago, i started printing the plane. I got it all glued together and all that stuff and found a kind of good spot for the battery to get a good CG. I took the plane on a scale and it was 1012g including all electronics. So I took a small test flight and it flew 2 meters and shattered on the ground because the motor was not powerful enough. Even tho, i used everything that was described in the thingiverse post.
I was using:
Self build 4S Li-Ion (2800mAh 18650)
T Motors 35A ESC (Link)
EMAX Eco 2306 2400KV Motor (Link)
6" 6045 ABS Props (Link)

Any idea what i did wrong?

EDIT: It may be my 4S Battery. On full throttle, the voltage drops down to 10V (of 16.8) and that may cause that i dont have enough throttle.
 
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