B-25 Mitchell 60”

noahangel11

Well-known member
Next glue former F4A on top of F4B. F4A has a hole sized for the battery tray, and F4B has a hole sized for the servo tray that goes under the wing. Take the paper off of the skin labeled F3-F4, shape the skin and glue the ends together. Temporarily separate the nose section off of the battery tray. Attach skin F3-F4 to formers F3B/F3C, making sure that the skin is a flush fit to the front of F3B. Make sure the skin is turned the right way and not facing towards the nose of the plane that you just slid off of the battery tray. Once the skin is attached and glued, slide on the F4A/F4B former assembly, with F4A side facing the front of the plane and mating with the end of the battery tray. Only F4A should fit into skin F3-F4. A lip is formed by F4B for attaching the next skin.
 

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noahangel11

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Find the canopy pieces marks C1 and C2, and remove paper from one side. Add some curved shape to them. Glue former assembly F3AF/F3AR flush to the edge of skin C1, with the magnets in F3AR facing out from the sheet. Use the tick marks to center the former on the sheet edge. Make bevel cuts to both short ends of C1 so that it will mate with the fuselage. Shape and glue C1 to skin F2-F3 only, with the F3AF/F3AR former magnetically attached to F3B. This forms the top of the canopy.
 

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noahangel11

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Find the skin labeled “nose”. Take paper off of one side and slowly shape it on the edge of the bench. Take your time as it is a tight roll. When shaped, glue the edges. Next make a sharp bevel cut to the inside edge of the nose cone. Also, make a sharp bevel cut to the edges of former F1A, allowing the 2 pieces to butt together well. Once satisfied with the fit, glue the nose on.
 

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noahangel11

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For now, let’s skip the center skins F4-F6 which have the wing cutout, and work on the tail section of the plane. The skin F6-F7 is not labeled, (it was incorrectly in the photos so I whited it out :) ), but you can identify it by the cuts it has for the gunner openings on the side of the fuselage. Take the paper off of the opposite side of the sheet. The side with the gunner opening lines is the outside of the skin and keeps it’s paper. Use masking tape to put over those cuts, to reinforce the sheet while shaping it. I took the formers F6A and F6B and glued them together. F6A faces the front of the plane and has an opening to receive the servo tray. F7 pieces glue together. Then you can use the formers, rolling them along the edge of where they would meet with the F6-F7 sheet on each end, and make light marks on the edge of the skin where the tightest radiuses need to be bent or curved into the sheet to match the shape of the fuselage. Then, when shaping the sheet on the edge of a table, you have marks to know where to shape the tighter areas. After shaping glue the ends of the skin together.
 

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noahangel11

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Here is a picture of the F6A and F6B formers and the notch that receives the setvo tray. Also a picture of the servo tray, which you should assemble just like the battery tray was, but this time use a B fold where the sides are beside the center piece.
 

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noahangel11

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If you have not already done so, you can glue the two F7 formers together and the two F8 formers together.

Glue F6A/F6B former assembly into the larger end of the F6-F7 skin you just made, making sure that the bottom of the former which has the servo tray not h is at the bottom of the skin. Remember the skin bottom has the seam on it where you glued he to ends together. Use the tick marks to align. Only the F6B half of the former fits into the skin, leaving the edge of F6A exposed and facing the front of the plane.
 

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noahangel11

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Find skin sheet F7-F8. It’s the o d with cut lines for notching out the elevator slot and it also has two pushrod cuts. Remove the paper off of the side that has no lines cut on it. Reinforce the areas of the skin with lines by using masking tape to cover the lines and reinforce them while you are shaping the skin.
 

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noahangel11

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Carefully shape the F7-F8 skin, taking your time as the roll is tight and there are some sharper radiuses on the corners. Use the same technique of using the formats to determine where to bend or curve the sheet the most.
Once you are satisfied with the fit of everything
, glue the ends of the skin together.

Fit F7 and F8 former assemblies into the skin while at the same adding the control rod tubes through the cuts in the skin and through F7 holes. I use a BBQ skewer to make the slits for the control rod tubes larger. When happy with the fit of everything, glue the formers in place and glue in the tubes, remember the bottom of the former lines up with the bottom seam of the skin.
 

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noahangel11

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Now attach the F7-F8 tail assembly to the skin F6-F7 at the F7 end, feeding the control rod tubes up through the skin and out F6 Formers.
 

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noahangel11

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There is a small skin with an odd shape that goes between F8 and F9. Prepare F9 by cutting a notch in the outer strip and removing it from the paper, making a paper lip that extends past F9 foam. This is the plug for the tail end of the fuselage where you would mount tail guns. The ide hare was to have both F8 and F9 to stick guns into to make it a strong mounting point. In retrospect I should have eliminated the small skin and the extra former and just made Skin F7-F8 the last skin. Regardless, remove the paper from one side of the small skin. The side with the lump glues to F8, aligning the joint with the bottom of the fuselage, and the other side glues to F9. Glue the skin to F8 first then plug the end with F9, trimming F9 as needed to fit.
 

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noahangel11

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Next build the horizontal stabilizer. Run the back edge of a razor blade along the score cuts on the front fold over flaps and the elevator hinges to help them break. Do not press so hard to break through the paper. If you are cutting your own parts, you will be making cuts on the lines indicated on the plans, just not all the way through the paper. Fold back the front flap pieces and cut a 45 degree bevel on each half. This will allow the sheet to bend over. Glue the front flap pieces over by applying glue to the surface and in the 45 bevel cut joint. Make sure the parts align together as you let the glue dry. next fold back each elevator and cut a 45 on the flap side, and reinforce the joint with a thin laver of glue to make a hinge.
 

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noahangel11

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Take the 2 vertical stabilizers and remove the foam from the rectangle area that the horizontal stabilizer tabs fit into, being careful not to remove the outside paper. Glue each vertical stabilizer to the end of the horizontal stabilizer, using a square to ensure squareness. Reinforce the joint with glue fillets after the first application has dried.
 

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noahangel11

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At the rear of the fuselage there are 2 lines to indicate where the horizontal stab fits. Connect the ends of the lines with a knife blade to cut out a notch in the top of the fuselage. Mount the horizontal stab in the notch. When satisfied with alignment to the fuselage and the horizontal alignment, glue in place. Adjust mount as needed for a level fit to the fuselage.
 

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noahangel11

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For the side gunner positions on the fuselage I decided to build out with foam, and the parts are on the plan. Take paper off one side, curve them on the horizontal plane, and use a bbq skewer to crease the half moon top and bottom so they will bend in. I start by gluing the left and right side to the opening, then bend Back the half moons to apply glue, and then bend them in and press in place as glue dries. You could choose to do your own thing here and leave the doors open or whatever. The foam leaves you a place to stick in two machine gun barrels facing aft. I plan to cut some Carbon Fiber tube for my guns.
 

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