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Rasterize skin for the FT MM FT MM DR1 Triplane Size 11X17
The Red Baron flys once more! This skin is for Rittmeister Manfred von Richthofen's Fokker DR.1 Dreidecker 425/17, Jasta 11, JG.1 1918. Although he flew many red-colored aircraft, #425/17 was the aircraft he scored his last 4 victories in as well as being the aircraft in which he met his end.
Skins include paper Spandau machine guns to complete the look.
**Please read the Hints and Tips at the bottom before printing and building! These are not for recommended for beginners!**
You must be comfortable with the Flite Test build method before attempting skinning a plane. You are encouraged to build and fly an unskinned version of the plane beforehand. Learn on a plain one then build a skinned one.
Hints and Tips
The Red Baron flys once more! This skin is for Rittmeister Manfred von Richthofen's Fokker DR.1 Dreidecker 425/17, Jasta 11, JG.1 1918. Although he flew many red-colored aircraft, #425/17 was the aircraft he scored his last 4 victories in as well as being the aircraft in which he met his end.
Skins include paper Spandau machine guns to complete the look.
**Please read the Hints and Tips at the bottom before printing and building! These are not for recommended for beginners!**
You must be comfortable with the Flite Test build method before attempting skinning a plane. You are encouraged to build and fly an unskinned version of the plane beforehand. Learn on a plain one then build a skinned one.
Hints and Tips
- Printing - Please check your Print Dialog box and make sure that under "Page Size & Handling" that the "Actual size" button is checked and NOT the "Fit" button. If "Fit" was chosen it can result in smaller sized prints even when the correct paper size is selected. So far this one tip, if not done, has wasted more time and money than anything else!
- Again this is not a beginner build! You must be comfortable with the flite Test build method.
- You should download the full plans and have them available for viewing before beginning your build. You will need them for reference as score lines are not on the skin kits.
- The horizontal stab - Do not completely cut through the slots on the horizontal stabilizer that receive the tabs on the fuselage. It is unnecessary and will detract from the look.
- The Wing - I opted to just remove all the paper and only use the skins. I think after the spar is in it will be more than sufficiently strong.
- The fuselage - Peel off the paper from just one side of the foam.
- When a piece has two sides covered with skins:
- Roughly cut one side of the skins from the paper
- Take an appropriately sized section of foam and peel the paper from both sides
- Glue the rough cut part to the foam and let dry
- Now trim the foam to the skin (art)
- Trim the other side of the skin from the paper
- Carefully align and glue the second side skin to the foam
- Sheeting - To keep the color between pieces the same I printed out everything on the same paper - 24lbs bond although 20lbs bond would work as well and save a little weight. For parts that require card stock, (if applicable) I just glue the printed paper skin to a black sheet of the same paper then cut the piece out.
- Sharpie Touch Ups - Use an appropriate color Sharpie for touch-ups and edges
- You can also cover the skins with a clear shelf liner. (see pic above) Sp0nz did this on his Bloody Brit and Baron and on all the Blue Angle A4’s You can also see this on his Ber Harber F16 Thunderbird. Has yet to be tested on a mighty mini-sized aircarft