Tench745
Master member
I second paint, but my recent experimentation with Silkspan has me questioning how good glass really is.
1:4 Scale Foamy Albatros D.Va – Flite Fest 2022 Dawn Patrol Challenge
- Thread starter wilmracer
- Start date
Been a minute without an update. SEFF was great and a MUCH needed escape from reality. I'm in my final push to button up the D.Va with enough time to maiden and tweak before FF. I've been knocking out a few hours in the evenings but have unfortunately not been taking the time to document everything due to time constraints.
- A new USB interface for the Scorpion ESC should arrive today. The one I had is first generation and for some silly reason isn't compatible with this ESC. It is a NICE ESC but comes from the factory setup for heli and I need to properly adjust for airplane mode.
- The interwing strut situation has already been covered. I'm excited about the new path forward.
- I've cut the recesses into the upper wing to slot into the cabane strut supports. After some tweaking it looks 99% there, and I'll make final adjustments during installation.
- Dummy motor is installed. A small cover for the front will be fabricated and painted to blend in with the fuse/spinner.
- Guns are ready to go in. I'm debating if adding the ammo belts is worth the effort. I'll probably do it anyway...
- Receiver is in and mostly programmed. Need more expo on tail surfaces but throws are MORE than enough and everything is solid.
- Wiring has been run for ailerons. As I install the upper center wing section I'll add the pipe to conceal the wires.
- I've started covering the underside of the upper wing (images below). This has to be done now as it will be impossible to cover the center section once installed. So far I REALLY like this covering. I was skeptical when I first felt it but it seems to take to the foam just fine. The Lozenge pattern looks great. I'm really excited to see the colors on the top wing surfaces.
- Still debating the rib stitching. This will depend entirely on time. I may opt to use the blue from the tail rather than the "scale" color as I like it better, but we'll see how it looks.
- Flying wires need to be fabricated. 8 per side (16 total). I don't think it will be THAT bad of a job but it needs to be done.
- I've started filling a few low spots in the fuse before covering. Really close there.
- Battery hatch still needs to be fabricated. Won't be a hard job and isn't necessary for maiden.
Attachments
I haven't put an update in here in a few days. Been grinding with kid, family, and home responsibilities but have made some forward movement. I'm actually finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel with this one. Got the NEW programing cable in for the scorpion ESC and was able to get it out of Heli mode and properly configured how I want it. Upper wing is covered (minus ailerons and servo hatches) and center section has been installed with the right incidence. Need to mod and then cover the lower wings and then install the struts and wires and then finalize the hatch. Then finish the spinner. At this point I don't see anything complicated left to do... it is just a matter of having the time to get it done. I really want to have 4 or 5 flights on her BEFORE FF. Fingers crossed this week isn't TOO bad with work.
cyclone3350
Master member
Looking good. Wish I could make it to FF to see it. Moving to Newnan Ga right around that time. That does put me in a short drive to SEFF, so I will see ya next year.
Off-topic jes
Elite member
Yea I’m not gonna make it either but that’s OK…
Off-topic jes
Elite member
Also how did I miss all this. when I stopped checking you didn’t even have the wings done
Baron VonHelton
Elite member
Um, Will.....How big of a deal would it be to remove that lozenge on the top wing?
Not going to happen.
Baron VonHelton
Elite member
oic.......Um, is this supposed to be Paul Baumer's aircraft just prior to his transfer to Jasta 5?
I'm not doing a scale livery. Colors are just picked based on what looked right to my eye for the time period and decals are a set from Callie-Graphics. For this build I didn't want to take the time to do a specific aircraft.
Baron VonHelton
Elite member
Oh! Well, soldier on then!
I'm trying
I got the low areas in the forward fuse filled and started working the battery hatch last night. Also working a cooling vent from the cowl that will help keep temperatures down in there. Time is tight this week but I'll get as much done as possible. I wish I had enough time to get her buttoned up before the weekend so I could get a maiden in during our club's annual build contest but that isn't going to happen. As long as she has flown by FF I'll be OK though.
Baron VonHelton
Elite member
I'm trying
I got the low areas in the forward fuse filled and started working the battery hatch last night. Also working a cooling vent from the cowl that will help keep temperatures down in there. Time is tight this week but I'll get as much done as possible. I wish I had enough time to get her buttoned up before the weekend so I could get a maiden in during our club's annual build contest but that isn't going to happen. As long as she has flown by FF I'll be OK though.
The French Nieuports & the German Albatrossen had a problem of losing the lower wing, so cut throttle in a dive or loop. I'd hate for your maiden to be the last. My own Nieuport lower wing came apart, but luckily not completely.
Attachments
The French Nieuports & the German Albatrossen had a problem of losing the lower wing, so cut throttle in a dive or loop. I'd hate for your maiden to be the last. My own Nieuport lower wing came apart, but luckily not completely.
I won't be doing dives or loops on the maiden and I’ll be doing a thorough post-maiden checkup to make sure everything is holding up well before attempting any aerobatics. I tend to fly scale-ish and I’m not planning un-scale maneuvers with this one so I’ll be cautious of high-G pulls. That being said there is a fair amount of carbon fiber in the wings, including the main spars for both upper and lower wings. It is only a ¾” tube and sleeve in each but based on the specs for the spar I am figuring if she’s 20lbs I’d have to push well over 10Gs to get the spars to fail. There is also a lot of other CF in the wings as well, plus the flying wires will hopefully help distribute load.
I know I’ve been down this road with @willsonman . The cube loading on this model will be pretty low. @20lbs I’d expect about 5.9, which is in the trainer/park-flyer range. I even cheated a touch on the wingspan to put me at 91" (scale would be 89"). It isn't much, but across both wings it is good for an extra 40 or so square-inches of surface and I'm not including that in my loading calculations. Right now it looks like 20lbs AUW will be a worst case scenario, so I’m really not worried about over-stressing the airframe.
Now overstressing the landing gear on the “pristine” runway at Flite Fest is another question entirely
Baron VonHelton
Elite member
I won't be doing dives or loops on the maiden and I’ll be doing a thorough post-maiden checkup to make sure everything is holding up well before attempting any aerobatics. I tend to fly scale-ish and I’m not planning un-scale maneuvers with this one so I’ll be cautious of high-G pulls. That being said there is a fair amount of carbon fiber in the wings, including the main spars for both upper and lower wings. It is only a ¾” tube and sleeve in each but based on the specs for the spar I am figuring if she’s 20lbs I’d have to push well over 10Gs to get the spars to fail. There is also a lot of other CF in the wings as well, plus the flying wires will hopefully help distribute load.
I know I’ve been down this road with @willsonman . The cube loading on this model will be pretty low. @20lbs I’d expect about 5.9, which is in the trainer/park-flyer range. I even cheated a touch on the wingspan to put me at 91" (scale would be 89"). It isn't much, but across both wings it is good for an extra 40 or so square-inches of surface and I'm not including that in my loading calculations. Right now it looks like 20lbs AUW will be a worst case scenario, so I’m really not worried about over-stressing the airframe.
Now overstressing the landing gear on the “pristine” runway at Flite Fest is another question entirely
You using rubber hose for your tires or PLA?
Baron VonHelton
Elite member
Yeah, as my flying of the D.VIII has gotten more comfortable at SEFF I still am not trying too hard to overly stress the airframe. I'm having fun just doing "strafing runs" and if /when you attend you'll get a giggle out of what I mean on that front. These airplanes really were not aerobatic at all. The D.VIII had at most 160hp and that pales in comparison to the heavier birds of WWII. A Loop would have been dangerous in the full-scale as overspeed would have been a terrible issue and the pilot not being able to fully pull out of the down line of the loop.
Fly the pattern. Enjoy the fly works of art. Get a giggle out of silly things and pretty colors/patterns. On the ground is where the fun starts when you start looking for details. Little things here and there.
Fly the pattern. Enjoy the fly works of art. Get a giggle out of silly things and pretty colors/patterns. On the ground is where the fun starts when you start looking for details. Little things here and there.
Baron VonHelton
Elite member
I'm originally from Ohio. Born & raised. Unfortunately, local drama prevents me from being there in person this year. But I do want to get there eventually to at least shake a few hands.
Hey, it can happen!!
Quick update (I've obviously gotten away from daily updates but I'll try to keep that pace until she is done).
I managed to get close with the battery hatch last night. The battery (or batteries) are physically secured with velcro straps so this hatch is just cosmetic, and I suppose aerodynamic. I lost a biplane a few years back when a battery hatch came off and increased drag. I don't expect that to be an issue on this airframe but in any case I'm not taking any chances.
I didn't line the servo access hatch with balsa and it is already showing signs of wear. For that hatch I won't need regular access so I plan to cover the seams w/ vinyl to hide the crimes and no one will know. This hatch will get used all the time so I'm opting to line most of it with hard balsa so the joints stay clean. In the front there is a tongue-in-groove that slots in below the gear and in the back is a traditional spring loaded hatch pin. The mount plate for the latch is slightly recessed and I'll add a bit of soft basla to the top during final sanding so it should be well hidden.
In the shots you can also see a hole cut into the underside of the forward cowl. The forward cowl tapers to this hole and I plan to use some heat-formed styreen to make a curved vent cover that will keep the lines intact but still allow air to exit the cowl. I may have to add a NACA inlet or two as there really isn't much space for air to get into the cowl and the motor, ESC, and BEC are all in there. Nothing should be working TOO hard but I still want to keep it cool. A NACA exit or vent may also get added to the underside of the battery hatch. The top of the battery box has large holes and is open to air coming into the fuse over the dummy engine so hopefully that will be enough to keep the flight packs cool. The battery I'm planning to run should handle 400 Amps and I don't expect to exceed 80... so... that's OK
I'd LOVE to finish this hatch tonight and then finish covering the fuse. The only area remaining is a tiny fairing between the spinner and the front of the engine. That will need to be added, covered, and painted to match.
I managed to get close with the battery hatch last night. The battery (or batteries) are physically secured with velcro straps so this hatch is just cosmetic, and I suppose aerodynamic. I lost a biplane a few years back when a battery hatch came off and increased drag. I don't expect that to be an issue on this airframe but in any case I'm not taking any chances.
I didn't line the servo access hatch with balsa and it is already showing signs of wear. For that hatch I won't need regular access so I plan to cover the seams w/ vinyl to hide the crimes and no one will know. This hatch will get used all the time so I'm opting to line most of it with hard balsa so the joints stay clean. In the front there is a tongue-in-groove that slots in below the gear and in the back is a traditional spring loaded hatch pin. The mount plate for the latch is slightly recessed and I'll add a bit of soft basla to the top during final sanding so it should be well hidden.
In the shots you can also see a hole cut into the underside of the forward cowl. The forward cowl tapers to this hole and I plan to use some heat-formed styreen to make a curved vent cover that will keep the lines intact but still allow air to exit the cowl. I may have to add a NACA inlet or two as there really isn't much space for air to get into the cowl and the motor, ESC, and BEC are all in there. Nothing should be working TOO hard but I still want to keep it cool. A NACA exit or vent may also get added to the underside of the battery hatch. The top of the battery box has large holes and is open to air coming into the fuse over the dummy engine so hopefully that will be enough to keep the flight packs cool. The battery I'm planning to run should handle 400 Amps and I don't expect to exceed 80... so... that's OK
I'd LOVE to finish this hatch tonight and then finish covering the fuse. The only area remaining is a tiny fairing between the spinner and the front of the engine. That will need to be added, covered, and painted to match.
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