cyclone3350
Master member
That should do just fine. U reminded me about a discovery I made after I posted the pics. I forgot about the slot for the servo wire. No biggy to fix once I realized it.
1/5 scale Gee Bee Model D (From foam to balsa)
- Thread starter cyclone3350
- Start date
Taildragger
Legendary member
Glad to help!
cyclone3350
Master member
Wrapped a piece around the space frame to see how it would look due to how translucent it is. OH yeah, the linen it is.
I can tell when I get it on & tightened, that Oratex will have a nice doped sheen to it. Too bad their colors choices R limited & it is on the heavy side.
cyclone3350
Master member
I had some time from Thursday night until now to work on this thing. Got the right wing done minus the main gear mounting blocks. The top of the wing is now sheeted with the false ribs & got the wing tip done & mounted. First I trimmed the edge of the wing tip down to a uniform thickness & removed 3/16" from the edges for the lamination. Sheeted it using 4 pieces & finish it off by wrapping 3 strips of 1/16" balsa around the tip section. This where the use of vinegar really helps with bending them around. Started with I 1/2" wide followed by a 3/16' & then a 1/8". Epoxied that to the rest of the wing & finished off the aileron including the hinge installation.
Well, this is what happens we U free style build... U end up doubling back & re-engineering
But that is how I build. Like in this case, I am using two sets of plans as a guide, but pretty much winging it as I roll. Got the wing all sheeted with the faux ribs. Until I got it all together & get to see where everything goes, wasn't sure exactly where to put the servo & run the wire. Now I see where to put the servo, but how best to run the wire. After scratching head, I decide to run a 1/2" rocket tube for this. I took an old curtain rod and beveled the edge & spray adhesive sand paper behind that. I went to work twisting it into the foam until I got it to where I wanted it. This white foam doesn't want to do this neatly, but it worked. Epoxied the tube in & once cured, poured some wood glue over that to soak in & fill the rest of the void. This is when I realized that this weakened the stiffness for the rear section of the wing. So, I added some webbing between the rib strips, & that seemed to work just fine. For cutting out the void for the servo, I mark the blade as to how deep I needed to go & start to cut out little squares. This was to make sure I only cut down to the required depth & still leave @ least a 1/4" foam thickness to the top. Made a standard servo wing tray, added some additional 1/8" ply for the screws to tap into & done. Have an 1/8" to trim off the TE and round shape the aileron TE. Starting to look like a model D, I think. Now let's see how long it takes to do the left wing
Well, this is what happens we U free style build... U end up doubling back & re-engineering
But that is how I build. Like in this case, I am using two sets of plans as a guide, but pretty much winging it as I roll. Got the wing all sheeted with the faux ribs. Until I got it all together & get to see where everything goes, wasn't sure exactly where to put the servo & run the wire. Now I see where to put the servo, but how best to run the wire. After scratching head, I decide to run a 1/2" rocket tube for this. I took an old curtain rod and beveled the edge & spray adhesive sand paper behind that. I went to work twisting it into the foam until I got it to where I wanted it. This white foam doesn't want to do this neatly, but it worked. Epoxied the tube in & once cured, poured some wood glue over that to soak in & fill the rest of the void. This is when I realized that this weakened the stiffness for the rear section of the wing. So, I added some webbing between the rib strips, & that seemed to work just fine. For cutting out the void for the servo, I mark the blade as to how deep I needed to go & start to cut out little squares. This was to make sure I only cut down to the required depth & still leave @ least a 1/4" foam thickness to the top. Made a standard servo wing tray, added some additional 1/8" ply for the screws to tap into & done. Have an 1/8" to trim off the TE and round shape the aileron TE. Starting to look like a model D, I think. Now let's see how long it takes to do the left wing
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cyclone3350
Master member
Totally agree with U on that. An all balsa build would have done well for this covering. This just happens to be some left over & I am doing a double science experiment. The first one is, I needed a motor mount to test out & see if my gas conversion idea will work. OK, so I am going a little fancy on a motor holder. I'd figure if it works, then I would have something that somewhat matches that 4 stroke sound. The second: 1)To see how feasible a DIY foam core would be to do as far as saving time. 2) Can I make it look old school balsa, & 3) Will it be light & strong.
As far as time, Eah..about the same, but it beats hand cutting ribs... I think. If I was to use a non translucent, or go with paint, it would do OK for the look. For strength, I am amazed how solid this thing feels & @ 312g/11oz so far, I am meeting my target weight for a non covered wing of 25oz ttl. Got one for ya. Should I leave the foam white or paint it a light tan, similar to the balsa? I keep going back & forth on that one & still can't up my mind.
An all balsa build would have done well for this covering. This just happens to be some left over & I am doing a double science experiment. The first one is, I needed a motor mount to test out & see if my gas conversion idea will work. OK, so I am going a little fancy on a motor holder. I'd figure if it works, then I would have something that somewhat matches that 4 stroke sound. The second: 1)To see how feasible a DIY foam core would be to do as far as saving time. 2) Can I make it look old school balsa, & 3) Will it be light & strong.As far as time, Eah..about the same, but it beats hand cutting ribs... I think.
If I was to use a non translucent, or go with paint, it would do OK for the look. For strength, I am amazed how solid this thing feels & @ 312g/11oz so far, I am meeting my target weight for a non covered wing of 25oz ttl. Got one for ya. Should I leave the foam white or paint it a light tan, similar to the balsa? I keep going back & forth on that one & still can't up my mind.
cyclone3350
Master member
Left wing is almost done. Wing tip to sheet, fake ribs on the aileron & then join them together. Don't know why, can't seem to get motivated to work on this thing for more than an hour or 2 @ a time. Maybe once I get the tail feathers done I'll start feeling it.
cyclone3350
Master member
Wings done. What else can I say. Please tell me the this start moving @ a faster pace.
cyclone3350
Master member
Correction edit: Please tell me that this will start moving @ a faster pace.
FlyingTyger
Elite member
I say you are cruising right along. You are moving much faster than the last all balsa scratch-build I did. And my plane was half the size too.
cyclone3350
Master member
cyclone3350
Master member
Found another good use for FB. Laminating.
Started the vertical stab & rudder this morning. Went with a laminated edge. By making a quick & simple form from FB, I was able to do this relatively quick. The prep & dry time took up the most part. Started by cutting out a pattern from poster board. Then I used that to cut out the FB. Then I used a drafting compass, spaced 3/16". Ran that around the edge of the original poster board pattern and trimmed that part off. Place that over the inside cut of the FB & now have a form clamp. Brushed cleaning vinegar on onside of 1/16" X 3/16" balsa. This expands the grain on one side causing the balsa to curve as well as soften the wood. Placed the strips around the inside pattern & held in place with a few pins on the outside. Put the outside FB pattern over that. removed the outside place holder pins & pinned the FB tightly to the balsa acting like a clamp. let that dry for about 30 min. Remove to repeat the process using wood glue in between the layers. With Titebond Quick & Thick, I just left that in place for about an hour & 1/2. I took that time to hinge the elevator. As U can see, this is now ready for the final construction.
Started the vertical stab & rudder this morning. Went with a laminated edge. By making a quick & simple form from FB, I was able to do this relatively quick. The prep & dry time took up the most part. Started by cutting out a pattern from poster board. Then I used that to cut out the FB. Then I used a drafting compass, spaced 3/16". Ran that around the edge of the original poster board pattern and trimmed that part off. Place that over the inside cut of the FB & now have a form clamp. Brushed cleaning vinegar on onside of 1/16" X 3/16" balsa. This expands the grain on one side causing the balsa to curve as well as soften the wood. Placed the strips around the inside pattern & held in place with a few pins on the outside. Put the outside FB pattern over that. removed the outside place holder pins & pinned the FB tightly to the balsa acting like a clamp. let that dry for about 30 min. Remove to repeat the process using wood glue in between the layers. With Titebond Quick & Thick, I just left that in place for about an hour & 1/2. I took that time to hinge the elevator. As U can see, this is now ready for the final construction.
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cyclone3350
Master member
Finally made it to the hump. The part where, until now, is boring building with little idea has to how this thing is going to turn out. From here, is where it'll start to feel like things R moving along. Prefect timing, I received the motor mount today. Now I can go back & finish up the fuse.
cyclone3350
Master member
Making some progress here. Rudder sanded & hinged. I have the doublers installed and the the hardwood wing mount. The placement for what will drive this thing is still in the planning stages, but this is what I am thinking in the pics shown. The servo is a HS 5245 MG. The throttle will be a cable running through a tube mounted to the first former & out the firewall. The tank stopper is slightly lower that the carb. The spark box will be mounted in the place shown above the fuel line and throttle cable. The bat & RX is on the the top & 9" from the spark box. The bat shown is just a place holder. Could use a recommendation for one & how to have one run both, the sparks & the RX. Once I get it figured out, blind nuts for the M mount, balsa sheeting from the rear cockpit former forward and the cockpit/ radio hatch to go. Then it is on to a scratch make cowling. Not looking forward to that.
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FlyingTyger
Elite member
I have run ignition and receiver off the same battery by simply using a Y-harness. But the better (correct) way to do it is to use something like a Tech-Aero IBEC.
cyclone3350
Master member
Thanks. I was wondering if something like that with a BEC existed. I will look that one up.
cyclone3350
Master member
Bo123
Elite member
Such a beautiful plane.
cyclone3350
Master member
Cockpit/radio access hatch cover is done. Put in the wing bolts & leading edge dowels to secure the wing. I can't get over how lucky I got with using a park park flyer foam plan for the forward section of the fuse. I only did this 'cause it looked like it would assemble quickly. It has this slanted cutout that is covered by the cowling. I think it is for the ESC for the park flyer, but what a perfect spot for the muffler & ignition box. Now on to doing the next time consuming part.... the gear & wheel pants/fairings.
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