2017/2018 Balsa Build Along Dare/Brodak DC-3

nhk750

Aviation Enthusiast
Based on the weather here, I won't actually get to test it for quite a few months. It stays rainy and windy until mid-April to May-ish. I'll have to hang this one in the garage until better flying weather comes.

That and our flying field will be soaking wet, unless it freezes then we get a month or two of good cold freezing flying weather.
That build is looking elegant and intricate, very nice!
 
I was just reading the dc-3 thread over on RCG. I'd just PM Pat on RCG. He's always been very responsive to my inquiries.

If you're worried about the gear, I'd beef up the area a little. You just have to keep in mind that you just move the failure to the next weakest point. Many use careful substitution of basswood in Pats's designs. I'll probably swap a few into my 195 in the fuselage areas where the plane is handled.
 

TexMechsRobot

Posted a thousand or more times
I read about people wanting to substitute bass into the handling points but the stringers they provided are actually a pretty hefty balsa already. I'm not one to be rough with a balsa plane so I think I'll be fine there.

The trouble with beefing up the landing area is it's already tucked away with the additional build items. I'd have to cut through the nacelles to get in there and I'm thinking I'd rather just trust Pat on this one. If I bust it up, I'll deal with it then. It's going to be a fairly floaty build so the landings shouldn't be too rough unless the pilot makes a mistake.
 

TexMechsRobot

Posted a thousand or more times
I'm at the point of installing the hinges on the ailerons and ran into unknown territory. The setup is as the attached image and the instructions call for CA hinges. normally, I would cut a slot for the hinge which also becomes the moment of rotation but in this case, the moment is the point where the aileron meets the trailing edge which is also the top surface of the wing.

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What tips do you have for making this work? Are there other methods that are better? I considered a Blenderm tape hinge but it would pain me to put that on the top surface of the wing.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
CA hinges work, but I’m not a fan and instead prefer actual hinges with a pin. They can be overkill for light construction, however. There are many sizes available, maybe that is an option?
 

TexMechsRobot

Posted a thousand or more times
I'm using the Du-Bro small nylon hinges but where to put them is the question. I can't effectively get the rotation point to be on the surface of the wing, can I?
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
No, at neutral throw the hinge would be bent as an inverted V so it fits down into the meat of the surface. I’ll find a pic when I get home as a reference.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Glad it helped. I can try and describe it all day long, but that video or a good picture makes it super easy. After seeing that video I picked up a couple small saw blades to cut slots like he was doing, and found it MUCH easier than I've ever done it in the past!
 

TexMechsRobot

Posted a thousand or more times
I made a lot of progress since the last pictures I posted. I've basically finished all of the big stuff. Here is a picture dump.

These are of the first test fit of the wing to the fuselage as I drilled and tapped for the wing mounting bolts.

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The flaps are finicky but I think they're looking good. The three moving surfaces will be actuated by two servos so I imagine there will still be some fine tuning once its covered and I'm in final assembly. One thing that's crazy is just how minute the connection points are for the trailing edge for both the wing and the control surfaces. I've broken that bond more than once.

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Then came the fairing between the fuselage and the wing. The plans called for using manila folder for the final top pieces but I had some really soft 1/32" balsa sheet so I used that instead. It went on really easily and I think it'll be easier to cover than the folder would have been. It'll still likely be a challenge so we'll see how that goes when the time comes.

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The kit has quite a few vacuum formed parts including the cockpit, nose, cowlings, and the tip fairing at the very back of the plane. The tip fairing was created by gluing two halves together but this is problematic since the join is extremely thin. I tried beefing it up with some 5 minute epoxy but it didn't really help. so I decided to carve my own out of some balsa. I plan to hollow out the inside as well in order to save weight.

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And then finally, just some vanity shots of what I have so far. I didn't model the inside of the cockpit so I painted the inside of the clear plastic black and will paint the exterior in a silver that matches (as closely as I can) the covering so the windows will appear black. I'll be using vinyl decals for the passenger windows. Before I can cover, I still need to carve the empennage tip fairing, do a finishing fit for the flaps, and add a couple of fitting pieces near the tail to make covering easier. It is likely that I can begin covering this week and should get a ton done on Friday when the wife is out shopping with her sister. This "fall build along" may turn out to be a "November build along" for me!

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I think this is a beautiful model and the trusswork in balsa is masterfully designed. I'm looking forward to flying it!
 
It looks really good!

I am always amazed at how quickly a plane can go together when you just sit and work on it. Even something like the DC-3 can come together pretty quickly. You're reaching that spot I like to call 90% done, 90% left to finish! It looks like a plane, but there's a lot of things that will take your time!
 

TexMechsRobot

Posted a thousand or more times
Agreed! That's what the pictures are for: to record this stage forever since I have to cover it all up.

I spent the morning correcting some slack in my pull-pull system (and making it so corrections in the future would be much easier). I also go all of the final sanding complete and so I am basically ready to cover it. I don't think I'll start that today though. I might plug everything up and start getting some of the radio programming figured out since that part takes me a while.
 

TexMechsRobot

Posted a thousand or more times
Ultracote.

EDIT: Wow I just looked at the SoLite weight. That's MUCH lighter. I remember thinking that the Ultracote was light enough but I'm questioning my decision now. The SoLite is 0.7 oz/sq.yd. while the Ultracote is 2.7 oz/sq.yd.

I think I'll stick with the Ultracote for now because I'm happy with its look and application.
 
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I use ultracote park lite. It's pretty light, and doesn't stick to itself as bad as Solite. Be careful with ultracote on a Tritle plane, it will deform the framework. Really watch the shrinking, especially where you are spanning long stringers. The covering looks good.