35" 'Cuda: Serial No. 0066

willsonman

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I kicked myself for not picking up a 'Cuda from Laine at FF2016 so I made sure that as soon as he was set up I would be there to buy one. Each one has its own unique serial number and I got lucky number 0066.
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I'm using this as a brief refresher to balsa building. My big project this winter will be... HA! you really thought I would let it out now? No, but it will be balsa. Laser cut kits are SO much nicer than the days of die cut (or die crush). There are things to be aware of so I'll give some pointers along the way.

First off, when you take the parts out of the sheet, never trust that the part is ready to just pop out. Here you can see that the top of the part looks very cleanly cut.
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On the back side, you can see that not all of the wood fibers are cut clean. Use your razor blade of choice to score the lines so that the part will cleanly come out of the sheet. This goes for balsa as well as ply.
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More and more we are seeing airplanes that require no plans to build from, which is great! The parts key together and the CAD precision ensures proper fitting. In this picture, you can see how there are ply pieces that clamp the one end and you can use that to let glue dry. Notice the TitebondII oozing out of the sides. Use your finger to wipe the excess away. In tight corners, I use a q-tip. The beading of the glue is excess weight but also, when you go to assemble the part, the beads will prevent the part from fitting properly. Look ahead in your directions to figure out what is what and think ahead on what you will do. Using TitebondII will allow you some time for the glue to dry if you miss something.
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Methodically following the instructions eventually yields you something that resembles an aircraft. The fuselage is taking shape. Note that the cut away marks on the outer perimeter are exposed here and sheeting will be applied later. They are the lighter marks compared to the dark, laser-singed, parts. Some light sanding quickly removes them. If you have parts that will be visible through a film covering, you can always use a rubber eraser to remove the scorched wood. I do not recommend sanding as it generally removes too much wood and grinds in the scorched wood particulates.
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Even the sheeting tabs together. Proper care for alignment is always an issue on these bits but be careful and use your standard FT techniques. The table is still your friend. Notice that I am building on a sheet of glass. I had a great experience with this on my last balsa build. Parts glued to the glass easily pop off when dry and the surface can be washed or scrapped with a razor to removed residue. It also ensures that I am working on a flat build surface.
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Those who want to build along with their kits... feel free to join in and post here. It is such a quick build. What you see here represents about 1.5 hours of careful work. Yes, those are LEDs. Lots of fun things can be done with your airplane during the build process. Again, think ahead and be creative with your solutions.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
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Lookin' good! As Josh said, the 'Cuda is a very fast build, and the parts are very accurately designed and cut. Unfortunately for mine, I learned it's expiration date after only a few flights due to loss of orientation. :( The parts were stripped out and put aside for a future build, but looking at the fuselage again last night I realized that only the nose is damaged, and its completely repairable. The wings didn't fare as well and both were completely wrecked in the impact. Talking to Laine at FTFF he reminded me that the wings are available by themselves, so maybe I'll have to go ahead and order them so the fuselage has another shot at flight.

For anybody building the 'Cuda, my experience with it told me four things. #1, CoG is critical (duh). I went a little nose-heavy at first, but that led to problems just getting it airborne as it wanted to dive. #2, to overcome the issue I moved the battery back back a little and dialed in a little reflex on the elevons. Flipping a switch on the TX put them both up slightly which helped keep the nose up at slower take-off speeds. Once moving I flipped the switch back to give me good level flight. #3, it really likes moving fast! #4, orientation is a beast on this design, so do something that really stands out to show top from bottom!
 

rockyboy

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Will be following along eagerly to see what tricks and tips the Josh-meister has up his sleeve in the balsa world! :p

I am at the covering stage for a 26" one of these - or actually the very difficult "covering scheme design' stage. Love how the EPP Cuda flies and excited to see how the balsa ones feel in the air!
 

willsonman

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Over the weekend I casually started the wings. I've got them both built up and have not started sheeting yet. Just the sheeting and ailerons yet to go. I forgot to snap some pictures but it all really goes together the same way. Follow the instruction images and be careful not to make two of the same side. I found the there was some ease in making the wings have some twist as I built. Before the TitebondII could set I used the friction of the balsa on the CF tubes to twist the wings so that the ribs were completely flat on the build table. Then I used a drop of CA on each side of the rib where the CF tube was and locked it in so there would be no twist. Once the Titebond cured out the wing is STRONG!

I also finished the hatches and rudder. No major issues there. The rudder was glued and placed under my glass (heavy) overnight to make sure it did not warp. Clamps work but do not necessarily make sure that the part is flat.

Jeff, I never REALLY left this area of the forum, just took a break. I always want to come back to my roots. There is just more waiting involved in these builds and I tend to want to rush a bit more and the work gets sloppy.

Jon, I need to have a look at my covering inventory. Been awhile since I have had a chance to use some but I think I have what I need to do something interesting. I have a Silhouette HD vinyl cutter that I've used in the past to cut film covering patterns. I may have to dig it out and put some FT imagery on there. I do have lights and may just use some of my clear doculam in parts as I'm pretty sure my transparent film selection is limited.
 

rockyboy

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Good call on smashing the rudder flat - I thought I clamped mine straight but after looking at it this weekend during final sanding I noticed it developed a little curve. I'm pretty sure I can pull it out with the covering, but might do a misting and flat plate squash ahead of time anyway.

I like the idea of a clear window to let some lighting show through - looking forward to how that comes out :)
 

willsonman

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Since the center plate is ply and the outer plates are balsa, you could try misting on some ammonia (or windex) and lay if flat for a couple days and see if it straightens out a bit.

You other option is heat. The glues typically used for ply are more like resins and you can get the layers to soften a bit through heat. I've used this on some 1/64 ply. Using an iron you heat the ply and bend it around a PVC pipe. The same thing could be done here. Put the part in a 300 degree oven for a few minutes to bake. Then remove and allow it to cool clamped to a flat surface. Mileage may vary but they are reasonable suggestions if you are really concerned that the rudder will prevent the airplane from tracking correctly.
 

rockyboy

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It's a pretty soft curve so I haven't been too worried - but then again, with the speeds this little bugger goes, and not having any rudder to trim out, maybe this does need to be a precision piece...

I'll try the mist and glass plate method first to see if I can correct it the easy way first. Then we'll bake the little bugger, and then we'll do the covering on the convex side first - tacking to the outer edges and shrinking the covering in the middle to pull it straight before covering the concave side.

Eventually I'll get it right :)
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
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If those don't work there is another method which lacks finesse - laminate on an additional 1/16" layer of balsa to both sides which would give you extra material to sand off from the high spots, which should result in a flat finished piece.
 

willsonman

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Finally got a picture of the completed fuselage and hatches.
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I also got some time to work on the wing sheeting. Completed just one wing. The CA makes quick and secure work of the leading edge to make sure it conforms to the rib curvature well. After the glue dried, I sanded the leading and trailing edges flat as well as the surfaces of the sheeting. Just to smooth them out and blend the seams of the pieces a little better.
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After a FB conversation with Laine, my intended motor is just too big. I'll have to source another.
 

willsonman

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Got the other wing sheeted this weekend. Been working on a project with my son so airplane progress has been slow.
 

willsonman

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Been really lacking in the updates on this project. Its not for lack of progress though. I've really just been gluing one piece here and there as I have been spending a lot of family time and just plain been exhausted from work.

Made a big push last night and now have all the parts glued together. I sanded down the wings and while the ailerons dried (glue) I started covering parts. I think you guys will like the creative avenue I'm taking on this one. There will be internal lights for a bit of night-flying (a first for me) but with a rather unusual look that I think will really make this airplane stand out from all the others that have been built. I love the build but my forte seems to be getting into the finish work. No rivets or anything... just really cool colors.

Yup, I still remember how to do iron-on film coverings.
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I'm not really after a speed demon on this one. I'm really focusing on re-familiarizing myself with the balsa build process. In the coming weeks I have a new HobbyKing-sponsored build on the way and I'll be digging more into that later, in a separate thread.

Stay tuned... the building fire is starting to burn again.
 

jsknockoff

Active member
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Can help but think after looking at these Cudas being built that with a few correctly placed scallops on the trailing edges of the wings and vertical stabilizer it would make a great old school Batplane that Bruce Wayne would be happy to fly!
 

rockyboy

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I really like that black stripe on the edge of the tail fin. Nice touch - may steal that idea :)
 

willsonman

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You may steal all you want... I'm not even close to done the fun finish work. I'll be working on the lights inside the wing tonight.
 

willsonman

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To vent some stress from work... I went into the shop.

I soldered up my first string of LEDs. I did not want it to be too bright but just enough to fly at low light and be able to see what I had planned. A single strip on the back of the spar was the order.
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I then covered the bottom with my linen colored solartex. Its heavy stuff but I'm really not after a super speed demon. I really want to just have something fun to fly that looks interesting as well. There will be some paint going on this side but more on that in another post.
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Now the fun part. I have this solartex that has the WWI era lozenge pattern PRINTED on it. Its fairly expensive stuff but I managed to pick it up at a swap meet along with another airplane. The colors are just fun and the texture is really what give is a nice look up close.
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With the lights on she will be fun to see fly at night as well.
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I cut the square out for the servo hatch and I like the non-uniform look of the lozenge not matching up. I think it still needs something.
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Rib tape! Before anyone gets too hard on me here (Patrick), on German fighters the rib tapes were ripped fabric, not pinked. So, jagged edges are not apparent here.
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Aileron has also been covered and completes the look quite well.
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Placed on the fuselage you can really see where I am going for this one. There will be some additional work going on but I'll cover that as I go.
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