36" Northern Pike - 3D Printed Cuda Clone (It Flies & STL's are Posted!)

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
Yuck, I didn't realize cura was such a pain in the butt. I haven't done much with it in the past, as I didn't like the interface. I may have to try it out and get some instructions put out for the latest version. Maybe I'll also try and set up some G-Code files for 200x200 print beds.

Any particular reason why pushrods are not perpendicular to hinge line?
This is quite frequent problem in chineese designs.

Printability for the servo slot mostly, and if it works, I don't really see it as a problem. You're not losing enough in efficiency to matter for the most part. I really doubt I would be able to tell the difference in the air with this plane if the pushrods were perpendicular or not. It's also hard/nearly impossible to get the servo horn to print out perpendicular to this particular hinge line. Overhangs beyond 45 degrees are bad for printing.
 
Yuck, I didn't realize cura was such a pain in the butt. I haven't done much with it in the past, as I didn't like the interface. I may have to try it out and get some instructions put out for the latest version. Maybe I'll also try and set up some G-Code files for 200x200 print beds.



Printability for the servo slot mostly, and if it works, I don't really see it as a problem. You're not losing enough in efficiency to matter for the most part. I really doubt I would be able to tell the difference in the air with this plane if the pushrods were perpendicular or not. It's also hard/nearly impossible to get the servo horn to print out perpendicular to this particular hinge line. Overhangs beyond 45 degrees are bad for printing.


I could also give some gcode out. I have a CR10 so it has a really large print bed and is also really popular. But first I have to print the test part this afternoon.
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
I could also give some gcode out. I have a CR10 so it has a really large print bed and is also really popular. But first I have to print the test part this afternoon.

That'd be cool. I'll be interested in seeing your settings once you get stuff tuned. I have not done much with a .3mm nozzle.

If anyone was interested in trying PETG I've been tinkering with print settings for it. Seems to work pretty well, though the red filament roll seems to have absorbed a bit of moisture and bubbles a bit.

j9Jaxsf.jpg


dERXKrP.jpg



I'm using my printer that's in an enclosure, and one without. Doesn't seem to make a difference.

Nozzle : 0.4mm
Extrusion Multi: 1.0
Extrusion Width: 0.42mm
Retraction: 1.8mm
Extra Restart: .04mm
Retraction Lift: 0.05mm
Retraction Speed: 40mm/sec
Coasting Distance: 0.1mm
Wipe Distance: 5.0mm
Layer Outline Direction: Outside - In
First Layer Height: 100%
First Layer Width: 110%
First Layer Speed: 40%
Nozzle Temp: 240C
Bed Temp: 90C
Print Speed: 50mm/sec
Cooling Fan: 30% power after 3mm have been printed.
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
Also, if anyone hasn't printed Wing Section 1, I replaced the version on thingiverse with a new one. The old one will print, it just has a spar piece near the leading edge fillet that can fail to print well depending on how you look at it. :rolleyes: The new version is beefed up and works without issue. Was supposed to be like that in the first place, but someone forgot to re-export the file after it was fixed in cad....
 

cjspecial

Member
That's a common issue with Cura, and one of the reasons I went with Simplify3D. (Especially when I started looking at the 3DLabPrint planes.)

Not saying you need to buy a $100 software package to print a "Free" plane*, if you scour the internet there were some work arounds with specific Cura versions. But after an upgrade where Cura wiped out my entire setup library that was the last straw.

Happy to say I haven't looked back. I can honestly say I saw a marked improvement in my prints after switching.

Attached is a screenshot of the Lwing section 2 in Simplify (I'm working on the build files now and will start printing this weekend.) View attachment 112109

*We all ought to show LocalFiend some love for what he's given the community!
I can confirm this too. 3dlabprints had to design a special version of one of their planes that was Slic3r and Cura friendly. I've been trying to hold off on getting S3D but with the direction of the market and the quality of the slice, it's hard to avoid buying the software.
 
I can confirm this too. 3dlabprints had to design a special version of one of their planes that was Slic3r and Cura friendly. I've been trying to hold off on getting S3D but with the direction of the market and the quality of the slice, it's hard to avoid buying the software.
Ok
That'd be cool. I'll be interested in seeing your settings once you get stuff tuned. I have not done much with a .3mm nozzle.

If anyone was interested in trying PETG I've been tinkering with print settings for it. Seems to work pretty well, though the red filament roll seems to have absorbed a bit of moisture and bubbles a bit.

j9Jaxsf.jpg


dERXKrP.jpg



I'm using my printer that's in an enclosure, and one without. Doesn't seem to make a difference.

Nozzle : 0.4mm
Extrusion Multi: 1.0
Extrusion Width: 0.42mm
Retraction: 1.8mm
Extra Restart: .04mm
Retraction Lift: 0.05mm
Retraction Speed: 40mm/sec
Coasting Distance: 0.1mm
Wipe Distance: 5.0mm
Layer Outline Direction: Outside - In
First Layer Height: 100%
First Layer Width: 110%
First Layer Speed: 40%
Nozzle Temp: 240C
Bed Temp: 90C
Print Speed: 50mm/sec
Cooling Fan: 30% power after 3mm have been printed.


My setting are mostly based off the 3d lab print cura profile exept for a few different settings that are needed for the plane and some that I just like (mostly lower speed). I will take a screenshot soon. All most ready to start a wing part to verify
 

jaredstrees

Well-known member
I use cure as well. Did a test print on an aileron yesterday with the recommended settings and it printed fine. I did not have enough filament in a color I liked to start the wings, so cannot report on those. I should be getting in the filament tomorrow, so by Monday hopefully I can report on how it is working. Bear in mind, this is my first 3D plane, but I've been playing with my A8 for about a year now and hope most of the bugs are worked out.
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
If you have any trouble with those settings, lose detail, or if the print walls seem weak, try lowering your layer height down to .2 or maybe even further. To be proportional with a .3mm nozzle, optimal layer height is something like .1875mm.
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
If anyone was interested in trying PETG I've been tinkering with print settings for it.
Looks like a maker geeks Monthly box around Christmas time... :LOL:
(BTW, I cannot endorse MG stuff... I've had no end of trouble with their PLA filament (and I know some people swear by it) just didn't work for me.) I have had success with their PETG though (made some nifty taco holders) :p
 
Test print is about half way done. Temp is key. Had to go up to 228 and put on a desk fan to cool the parts. Had issues with layer sepration but this should solve this.
 

jmiah007

Junior Member
It's time to go buy some PTEG..... I have some silver, maybe I'll start with that and just add some paint..... Thank you sir!!!!!
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
Test print is about half way done. Temp is key. Had to go up to 228 and put on a desk fan to cool the parts. Had issues with layer sepration but this should solve this.

Yeah, every filament brand will differ a bit. Especially colored stuff. What filament are you using.

It's time to go buy some PTEG..... I have some silver, maybe I'll start with that and just add some paint..... Thank you sir!!!!!

No problem. A bit of paint shouldn't hurt. Wing loading is pretty good. I'll be painting the nose of my next one for sure.
 
Yeah, every filament brand will differ a bit. Especially colored stuff. What filament are you using.



No problem. A bit of paint shouldn't hurt. Wing loading is pretty good. I'll be painting the nose of my next one for sure.

I am using xyz tech black pla. Pint came out good exept my retraction was a bit low. I also think going with a smaller layer hight will help. Also don't use brims. Part of the print came off during removeal. I plan on getting some new filliment from atomic fillment that has great preformace and color for the full plane.
Capture+_2018-08-09-16-21-05.png
Capture+_2018-08-09-16-20-15.png
Capture+_2018-08-09-16-19-40.png
 
I am using xyz tech black pla. Pint came out good exept my retraction was a bit low. I also think going with a smaller layer hight will help. Also don't use brims. Part of the print came off during removeal. I plan on getting some new filliment from atomic fillment that has great preformace and color for the full plane.
View attachment 112141 View attachment 112142 View attachment 112143
The areas where the layers separated are very week. Also the little rounded part in left wing part 5 has ultra harrible layers and is very week to.
 
Some quick destructive testing showed the rounded bit completely falled with just a bit if force. Might need reinforcement in some more areas.

Edit: I through it on the floor about 10 times and it broke right along bad ahesion lines. Like I said lower layer hight and fan and high temp for hotend would solve most lines.
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
Some quick destructive testing showed the rounded bit completely falled with just a bit if force. Might need reinforcement in some more areas.

Edit: I through it on the floor about 10 times and it broke right along bad ahesion lines. Like I said lower layer hight and fan and high temp for hotend would solve most lines.

Yeah, the strength issues are coming from the overly tall layer heights. When you get that far above 2/3 the diameter of the nozzle, strength goes way down because there's so little contact area between layers.

Also, xyz pla filament is some of the worst out there, and the black is at the bottom of the pile for stength. I've got a bunch of the stuff I bought cheap and it's basically unusable.

I'd try 1.5mm layer heights next time.
 
Yeah, the strength issues are coming from the overly tall layer heights. When you get that far above 2/3 the diameter of the nozzle, strength goes way down because there's so little contact area between layers.

Also, xyz pla filament is some of the worst out there, and the black is at the bottom of the pile for stength. I've got a bunch of the stuff I bought cheap and it's basically unusable.

I'd try 1.5mm layer heights next time.
Cool. I will make the changes and possibly get the nice filliment this week. I manly got xyz because of the price and I had read it was ok. I guess it is not aerospace grade lol
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
Cool. I will make the changes and possibly get the nice filliment this week. I manly got xyz because of the price and I had read it was ok. I guess it is not aerospace grade lol

If you have any of their translucent stuff, it's not nearly as bad for strength, I've just found it to be inconsistent.

Here's how I glue the parts together that don't just slot together. Found this works much better than integrated tabs for small diameter parts like this. Nice easy way to make sure you get perfect alignment.

GlueFuselage1.jpg


GlueFuselage2.jpg