Should my parts be taking this long? View attachment 161180
No, not for just that many. Make sure you have infill turned off or set to 0, and only one perimeter.
Should my parts be taking this long? View attachment 161180
I did that... kinda weird that it is saying that. I am going off your recommended settings. I'll mess with it when I go back homeNo, not for just that many. Make sure you have infill turned off or set to 0, and only one perimeter.
I did that... kinda weird that it is saying that. I am going off your recommended settings. I'll mess with it when I go back home
Yeah, I looked at things again. Wasn't thinking about the size and layer height. That's way more big pieces on the build plate than you can fit with the big plane. Also, my settings for the .3mm nozzle are a bit slower. It's probably close to realistic.
Printing less parts at a time is more efficient when it comes to printing speed. If the printer doesn't have to move from part to part, it's faster. I'd reccomend printing the parts in batches the way I have them in my g-code files.
It'l be faster, and if something messes up, you're out a lot less.
As an example, in my g-code, I print the left and right sections of wing 1, and that's it. That'd be a good place to start.
I generally aim for 12 hour prints for PETG as the nozzle can build up plastic, which ends up on the parts. Sometimes it can even leave a hole if you don't pause in the middle of a print to clean it. PLA can go a lot longer, but overnight ish times seems to be a good cycle for starting the next batch.
I have wondered about the pause feature. Is it worthwhile to pause the print and clean the nozzle if I see something building up? Is there a better time to pause than others (such as when the head is on it's way to another piece)?
I've been scared to try it.
I believe with the newer firmware on prusa printers if you hit pause print, it'l finish the line it's on and move off the the side and lock in place. You can then clean it off then hit resume and it'l go back to work.
Easy to test on something simple after only a few layers have been printed.
I like printing one piece at a time (unless it is something like control horns) , less chance of stringers and way better print because it doesn't have to travel from part to part.I did that... kinda weird that it is saying that. I am going off your recommended settings. I'll mess with it when I go back home
i usually do 2 parts, just so i can keep the printer running for longer times when at work or over night. I do agree though, that 1 pc at a time will make less stringers.I like printing one piece at a time (unless it is something like control horns) , less chance of stringers and way better print because it doesn't have to travel from part to part.
Also if something screws up half way through you didn't ruin as many parts plus less time wasted.
I just printed this fuse piece, and it came out flawless
I like printing one piece at a time (unless it is something like control horns) , less chance of stringers and way better print because it doesn't have to travel from part to part.
Also if something screws up half way through you didn't ruin as many parts plus less time wasted.
That's weird... I have no idea why they aren't printing. I went off your settings..At the tiny size you may be able to get away without internal structure on the fuse base. You're gonna want to change your settings though, that should have printed with spars. On the 36" Pike there's a Cura profile that should work with the new versions of cura. It'l let you slice the parts with the internals intact. You'll still need to change the settings to suit the .3mm nozzle though.
@SquirrelTail see these two posts. I think they'll help you. #510 #501That's weird... I have no idea why they aren't printing. I went off your settings..
Thanks!
I always turn the preview on so I can go through each layer before I print and make sure it is there or in some cases the parts are there but not attached. Sometimes what you see on the table is not what you get.Thanks!
One piece at a time can work for some things, for others though, it can greatly decrease strength because of how you have to adjust your heat settings. All of my g-codes are optimized so that you get the best strength, which can necessitate printing more than one part at a time so that things have enough time to cool down.
Sometimes, if you cool down the temp enough to only print one part without it melting or having quality issues, it won't be as strong as it could be when paired with another part and printed at a higher temperature.