3D/Foamboard High Performance F-16 Discussion and Design

L Edge

Legendary member
But I want it to look sweet as well as fly nice!😂 If I want to go 100% speed than I will do something more like @telnar1236 did..
If you read telnar1236 comments (item 99) below, he basically said the same thing I said, loose the ordinance to get top speed. Secondly, it interferes with flight stability and he found the tip helped. Mine I flew, it hindered it. See what happens when you design with a different wing. My elevons were the result where the interference of wing and tail airflow.

By the way, now knowing my problem, I fly the F-16 (purchased in 2009) once in awhile because it has a thrust vectoring nozzle and gives a show at the flying field. It would go into a stall in only a left climbing sharp turn only. So the is not used in presentation.

What I am trying to do (also, telnar, quorneng, piotrsko) is to give you their years of experience of what works, doesn't work. You will notice many areas of design is presented by all. Otherwise, you will waste time and effort repeating what they have presented. You FT guys are the designers of the future.
 

telnar1236

Elite member
Yeah, I was planing on having them slid in and either screw or click in place, but have them removable for sure (y)
Tolerances can be tough with sliding stuff sometimes. Screws work well, but it's pretty important to avoid countersunk heads since they cause failures across the layer lines - my rule of thumb is 0.2mm less than the screw major diameter for holes where I want to use self-tapping screws and both 2mm and 3mm sizes tend to work well and are fairly cheap. If you want to do a spring-loaded mechanism, you can also buy mechanical pencil/pen springs pretty cheap in 100 packs.
 

Houndpup Rc

Legendary member
Tolerances can be tough with sliding stuff sometimes. Screws work well, but it's pretty important to avoid countersunk heads since they cause failures across the layer lines - my rule of thumb is 0.2mm less than the screw major diameter for holes where I want to use self-tapping screws and both 2mm and 3mm sizes tend to work well and are fairly cheap. If you want to do a spring-loaded mechanism, you can also buy mechanical pencil/pen springs pretty cheap in 100 packs.
Thanks for the ideas! (Yeah, those springs seem to be a popular choice.) Also some 5x5x5 magnets can be a good upgrade.
 

Houndpup Rc

Legendary member
Getting some more progress!
1760253712407.png

1760253749981.png

1760253781177.png

1760253806760.png
 

telnar1236

Elite member
I am thinking of using a 6mm CF spar running through the wing to not only add strength, but to also help with alignment.
Seems reasonable - two spars can sometimes help with any torsion on the wing too.
Thanks! And suggestions?
You might already be doing this, but now that it's pretty far along in the design process, it can be good to start slicing parts and adding up all the weights of both the printed parts and off the shelf components in a spreadsheet. That way you can get an idea if your weight will be acceptable which can sometimes be a challenge with 3D printed planes
 

Houndpup Rc

Legendary member
You might already be doing this, but now that it's pretty far along in the design process, it can be good to start slicing parts and adding up all the weights of both the printed parts and off the shelf components in a spreadsheet. That way you can get an idea if your weight will be acceptable which can sometimes be a challenge with 3D printed planes
Good idea (y)