3D Printed 50mm EDF Jet Trainer 1

[telnar1236]

telnar1236 submitted a new resource:

3D Printed 50mm EDF Jet Trainer - A small 3D printed trainer EDF

This is my 50mm EDF Jet trainer designed as a cheap and fairly easy to build alternative to store-bought jets. It is designed to be printed in either normal PLA or ABS and weighs in at 1100g ready to fly. It requires a 4s power system and can fly off a 1550 mAh to 2200 mAh pack. Top speed is 75 mph and it is fully aerobatic. The airplane is built using a modular system so that individual parts can easily be replaced without needing to replace the whole plane. It can take off from a runway...

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[Houndpup Rc]

Sweet!

 

[Mr Man]

Cool! Nice job!

 

[tomlogan1]

Just downloaded. Waiting for PLA delivery. Very excited about this. T*H*A*N*K*S

 

[tomlogan1]

Must be my settings, but when I started printing using the settings in the instructions, my prints looked just like frames.

 

[telnar1236]

Must be my settings, but when I started printing using the settings in the instructions, my prints looked just like frames.

That's very odd. It might be something to do with the minimum feature size or wall generator settings. Turning on print thin walls and reducing the min feature size to less than 0.1" might fix it? Or if you're using Orca slicer, switching to the Arachne wall generator and again turning on print thin walls?

 

[tomlogan1]

Arachne did the trick! Using Anycubic Next slicer which is part Orca slicer and part Prusa slicer.

 

[tomlogan1]

Much better!

 

[telnar1236]

Arachne did the trick! Using Anycubic Next slicer which is part Orca slicer and part Prusa slicer.

Glad it worked!

 

[telnar1236]

Something else that you might run into would be with the extruder extra prime amount (Cura terminology) or extra length on restart (Orca slicer terminology). On the wings, you may have some minor issues with the walls not connecting properly if this value is zero (it seems to depend on the printer). If there are small holes at the seams, you may need to turn this value up to around 0.2 - 0.5 mm^3 or 0.1 - 0.25 mm (Cura is by volume and Orca slicer is by length). If it's too high, you can end up with big seam lines on the skin, but it can help make sure everything connects right if it isn't doing so.

 

[Houndpup Rc]

Much better!

BTW what 3D printer do you use?

 

[tomlogan1]

BTW what 3D printer do you use?

Anycubic Kobra 3

 

[tomlogan1]

pausing this project; just got a case of foam board. will resume when I run out of foam board or the weather turns lousy

 

[sclime]

Have you printed this with LW PLA? I am thinking of trying it with Sain Smart LW PLA. It is active foaming.
Printing on a Bambu P1S currently with eSun PLA Basic.

 

[telnar1236]

Have you printed this with LW PLA? I am thinking of trying it with Sain Smart LW PLA. It is active foaming.
Printing on a Bambu P1S currently with eSun PLA Basic.

The active foaming stuff probably won't work unfortunately. The internal structure isn't really optimized for vase mode prints and I'm not sure if it would be strong enough either. If you have a perfectly tuned printer, it might barely be possible to print in LW-PLA, but it's definitely beyond my capabilities.

The pre-foamed stuff might work, but I haven't tested it. That said, it flies great when printed in ABS and normal PLA should work too. It's a bit heavier, but in return you get precise airfoils, easier prints, and a lot more strength.

 

[telnar1236]

I still have mine from last summer and it's pretty much my go-to plane if I want something I know can take whatever I throw at it. It's not the best at anything, but it's small, easy to fly (for a jet), and pretty tough although the wings are starting to get a tiny bit floppy (I tried a high-speed snap roll a couple months back with a pretty far aft CG and it wasn't quite up to it, though it still flies totally fine).

 

[Houndpup Rc]

The active foaming stuff probably won't work unfortunately. The internal structure isn't really optimized for vase mode prints and I'm not sure if it would be strong enough either. If you have a perfectly tuned printer, it might barely be possible to print in LW-PLA, but it's definitely beyond my capabilities.

The pre-foamed stuff might work, but I haven't tested it. That said, it flies great when printed in ABS and normal PLA should work too. It's a bit heavier, but in return you get precise airfoils, easier prints, and a lot more strength.

You ever tried printing with ASA?

 

[LitterBug]

You ever tried printing with ASA?

ASA is almost the same as ABS, but slightly more difficult to print. Better formulated for outdoor environments where UV can be a problem. Enclosure required for long prints due to warp potential.

 

[Houndpup Rc]

ASA is almost the same as ABS, but slightly more difficult to print. Better formulated for outdoor environments where UV can be a problem. Enclosure required for long prints due to warp potential.

I thought I have heard that its like ABS but easier to print...Could be wrong....

 

[telnar1236]

I thought I have heard that its like ABS but easier to print...Could be wrong....

Same experience as Litterbug more or less for me. It's basically the same as ABS but maybe a bit tougher to print. I get a bit less warping but more potential for cracks if it cools too quickly.

That said, I've tuned very heavily for ABS and I'm using the same ABS tune for ASA, so it could just be that I haven't tuned for ASA. I've also heard it's easier to print and it definitely has less of a tendency to peel off the bed which is the number one cause of ABS print failures so it may be a case where it's easier to get working at all but requires more effort to get perfect.