Great. News.Yes - 3D printed firewalls are awesome!
That's a great point. Will def keep an eye on that if I dont get plywood In time.Remember to be careful about getting the motor too hot or the plastic could start melting.
will do but may be some time as I am waiting for electronics. and the 540 build will start after the mini mustang, but mini mustang has printed firewall and horns, just waiting on servos. will update with both.Heard of folks using printed firewalls and control horns. I get my ply at Menards. But depends where you live. Good luck, let us know how it goes!
For me it usually is when I push the motors beyond what they are built forDone lots so far with PLA and no problems. If heat is going to be a problem try ABS or PETG, but I haven't had the need to yet.
Great info thank you.I 3D print all my firewalls and most of my control horns. Usually something like this with a little lip to center it in the foam. I usually only print 15-20% infill (rectilinear doesn't add much strength anyway) and 3 perimeters at 0.63mm extrusion width. Any material works. I'd prefer ABS but it takes like 10 minutes for my print bed to stabilize to 105C so I rarely have the patience. PETG is good but a little flexy. PLA is the only think I'll print control horns in for its stiffness, and almost all of my PLA firewalls have been OK. I don't have a setup that pulls more than 15A wide open though so my motors always come down warm but not much more than if they were just left in the Florida sun for half an hour. Even that is a bit close to PLA deformation temperature though.
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I used to 3D print the whole power pod, but it was always a challenge to get the skewers to go through at the exact right spot that lined up with the designed holes and the right height/depth for where the motor should end up. DTFB power pods have worked out better and I just poke the holes and then reinforce them with either 3D printed plates or just some cut polypropylene strips cut from chinese takeout lids.
Looks good! I've been using PLA with good results but I have my first spool of PETG coming on Monday, anxious to try. I use screws to mount my motors to the firewalls, will that work with PETG or do you make threads in and use bolts? I'm just wondering if PETG is too flexy for screws.I print a lot of firewalls and primarily use PETG. You can eliminate hardware by threading into the plastic, no need for nuts and washers if you size the holes properly. The only down side is weight depending on the design. Sometimes a plywood mount may be lighter in weight for the application. Not all weight is bad as long as it is functional weight. An example would be its better to have a heaver firewall than to have to add nose weight to balance the CG.
This is a FRCFoamies A-10 MK2 motor mount hot off the printer weighing in at 5.64g (0.199oz).
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Looks good! I've been using PLA with good results but I have my first spool of PETG coming on Monday, anxious to try. I use screws to mount my motors to the firewalls, will that work with PETG or do you make threads in and use bolts? I'm just wondering if PETG is too flexy for screws.
I've tried ABS and I haven't been able to get good adhesion, I think I need to build an enclosure to get the results I would like.