3d printer help.

Antioch

Member
.............Last November I took advantage of Prusa's black friday special and got an actual i3 mk3. I always respected what Prusa had created - but funds were tight and with all the clones out there I just couldn't afford the real deal and justified it to myself by saying it couldn't possibly be that much better. I was wrong. The attention to detail Prusa puts into the i3 is astounding. The manual is fantastic, the packaging and organization of the kit is top notch. I honestly can't think of any other kit for anything that comes close in terms of quality (I built a good number of heathkit projects back in the 80's and previously considered them to be highest level kitting...but Prusa blows even their old kits away.)

Ha Ha..... Jhitesma.... belt tensioning.....that’s not a problem when you assemble your mk 3 and realize you put the main frame in backwards...and have to take everything apart.....after that any adjustments seem rather trivial..👹. But yes Prusa has a lot going for it. Happy customer here.
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
3D printers can be almost a hobby in itself.
(At least it seems I’ve spent/wasted enough time/money for it to be classified as such.

If you don’t feel like an “adventure” then hands down I would suggest the prusa.

Once you get comfortable we can talk taking a cheap cr-10 (or ender 3) clone and turning it into a beast!! 😉
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
i am now looking at the Creality CR 10s. Is it a good printer?
I think it can be...
Like the ender 3 thought it needs a few tweaks first. But has potential....
I picked one of these up for $217
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A10S-3D-Pr...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
My plan is to do a direct drive (Btech or titan aero) frame brace and 9 degree steppers.
I’ve got all the bits, but been on the road too much to get started, but soon.

I took an ender 3 and replaced the plastic extruder with metal, Bowden tube with Capricorn, added a few 3D printed upgrades and I am amazed by the quality of prints I’m getting off of this thing...

I think the same path with the 10s will net the same results but with a slightly larger build size.
 

Antioch

Member
So fair warning.... I Just bought a CR 10 S4 yesterday.... good deal through family. I bought it for PLA printing on the large bed. There are some issues in have heard about others not being able to get the temp high enough to print abs...or so others have said. Now yes you can fix this by doing upgrades...but you don’t nesc wnat to take pieces apart if you aren’t comfortable doing that kind if work.

So it is a decent printer, good price point for what *I* want to do... others may find what they want, may change the equation for THEM. The point is if you need to do your own homework and make sure it works for what you want to do with it. Creator makes a lot of model 10’s...differnt build plate sizes, pro models that have enhanced features.

As Kilroy says some updates may help....make sure you are comfortable tinkering & have at least some basic idea about 3d printing. Can I suggest you look into seeing if you have a maker group locally & hang with them for a few hours....otherwise those maker magazine past issues that talk about 3d basics will give you some basic knowledge that should really help. Spending 5-6$ on a back issue can go a long way.
 

Chuppster

Well-known member
I think it can be...
Like the ender 3 thought it needs a few tweaks first. But has potential....
I picked one of these up for $217
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A10S-3D-Printer-Aluminum-Prusa-I3-Upgrade-Dual-Z-axis-double-motor-300x300x400mm/223386004596?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
My plan is to do a direct drive (Btech or titan aero) frame brace and 9 degree steppers.
I’ve got all the bits, but been on the road too much to get started, but soon.

I took an ender 3 and replaced the plastic extruder with metal, Bowden tube with Capricorn, added a few 3D printed upgrades and I am amazed by the quality of prints I’m getting off of this thing...

I think the same path with the 10s will net the same results but with a slightly larger build size.

Any reason to go to .9 steppers?
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
Not really, just better mechanical resolution. I’ll probably still run trinamic steppers. I’ve got a bunch so might as well use them.
 

IcedStorm777

Well-known member
So if i am just going to be printing plane parts, maybe planes, and just multi purpose gimmicks. (AKA anything i see and go THATS AWESOME) Would you recommend the Cr-10 or the Cr-10s? Do you think the Cr-10s is worth the new improvements? According to a few websites here are the main changes. I don't know how useful they are and just wondered?

"The three clear improvements in the CR-10S as compared to the CR-10 are the Z-axis threaded rods, filament-out detection system, and print-resume feature. Of course, Creality has also tweaked some basic design elements and functionalities in this one for better print results."
 

Antioch

Member
Ok still assembling my 10 S4 but i can answer some of these..

Filiment 1.75 mm. You really do want the Filiment run out & probably the other features... large job & you run out...like a plane wing......personally (now) I would get the S...or even the 10S Pro. (Don’t forget automatic bed levelling.... manual bed levelling with those hand screws can be a frustrating experience).

For a chinese product these are very well done...but the manual is still a bit sketchy in spots regardless of version i think.

Also for tall parts you will eventually want the support kit that help stiffen the top... and there is a creality support group for the 10 series on facebook..... very large. If you buy one you may want to look them up.
 
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IcedStorm777

Well-known member
Ok still assembling my 10 S4 but i can answer some of these..

Filiment 1.75 mm. You really do want the Filiment run out & probably the other features... large job & you run out...like a plane wing......personally (now) I would get the S...or even the 10S Pro. (Don’t forget automatic bed levelling.... manual bed levelling with those hand screws can be a frustrating experience).

For a chinese product these are very well done...but the manual is still a bit sketchy in spots regardless of version i think.

Also for tall parts you will eventually want the support kit that help stiffen the top... and there is a creality support group for the 10 series on facebook..... very large. If you buy one you may want to look them up.


Thanks! So wait, does the 10s not have automatic bed leveling?!?
 

Antioch

Member
Well i can say my 10 S4 doesn’t... have to adjust with screw wheels underneath using the sheet of paper approach... not sure about others... i do know the pro models do. Got mine from a Canadian company up here & they were able to talk about features vs cost.
 

IcedStorm777

Well-known member
Well i can say my 10 S4 doesn’t... have to adjust with screw wheels underneath using the sheet of paper approach... not sure about others... i do know the pro models do. Got mine from a Canadian company up here & they were able to talk about features vs cost.

How long does it take to level it? How hard is it? Do you have to do it every single print or only the first time? Is there a kit you can get that makes it self leveling? I just don't really have the money for the pro. I am going to be working over the summer to be able to buy this as i am just entering high school and don't have (but i want) a job. The problem with being a freshman is that because of weird labor laws for teens, no places want to higher. Anyway sorry just venting
 

Antioch

Member
Icedstorm....I feel your pain...

Bed levelling is something you do generally once (manually). The machine with the auto feature will run a test before it prints every time...or at least my Prusa does.

How hard is it... well in my reading that seems to be the 64$ Question.... on the facebook forum there are quite a few that have issues...others don’t. This is one of the reasons i mentioned doing a bit of pre reading and asked how comfortable you are with tinkering. I haven't gotten to that step yet so i really can’t say how it is. There are parts kits but you need to make sure the parts work with the model...(a lot of the big resellers have a you tube video channel...you may wnat to nose around there)

Price is always an issue ...i like the idea of a bit if support so i don’t usually buy from the cheapest place around...hence get some support... but as my dad used to say...buy the best tool you can afford.

Now my recommendation,now knowing a bit from where you are coming from, is going to be....find that creality cr10 facebook group...join & you will probably get a lot more info and help from guys who play with these regularly & mod them...& document-post about it...
 

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kilroy07

Legendary member
Do you know for sure you’ll need the extra print area?
You can have a great starter printer here (there’s a $45 coupon) makes it under $200!
Luxnwatts Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY Kit Resume Print 220x220x250mm for Beginners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G84V82W/?tag=lstir-20

It needs just a few tweaks to make it a great little printer, and I can help you.

Just use PLA starting out. It’ll be plenty strong for most parts. 1.75mm is pretty much the standard now.

Even if you get a machine with “auto leveling” you need to get it close manually first. It’s not hard and a skill you need. Auto leveling is useful on larger bed sizes because they tend to warp some and that will adjust the nozzle height to compensate. The ender 3’s bed is small enough where it isn’t really needed.
 

IcedStorm777

Well-known member
Do you know for sure you’ll need the extra print area?
You can have a great starter printer here (there’s a $45 coupon) makes it under $200!
Luxnwatts Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY Kit Resume Print 220x220x250mm for Beginners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G84V82W/?tag=lstir-20

It needs just a few tweaks to make it a great little printer, and I can help you.

Just use PLA starting out. It’ll be plenty strong for most parts. 1.75mm is pretty much the standard now.

Even if you get a machine with “auto leveling” you need to get it close manually first. It’s not hard and a skill you need. Auto leveling is useful on larger bed sizes because they tend to warp some and that will adjust the nozzle height to compensate. The ender 3’s bed is small enough where it isn’t really needed.

I waant the extra bed size so i don't have to print things as split up. So right now i am looking at getting the Creality Cr-10s with the support kit.
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
I waant the extra bed size so i don't have to print things as split up. So right now i am looking at getting the Creality Cr-10s with the support kit.
That’s a fine choice too. As I said, it takes a few more tweaks, but you’ll end up with a nicer printer in the end.
(Mine is sitting here in the living room just waiting on a few upgrade parts)

I might suggest that auto leveling kit you mentioned before the support kit.
You won’t notice wobble until you get over the halfway point, but bed warping can drive you a bit crazy. 😉
 

Antioch

Member
Just a quick add on...have been doing a lot of reading... lot if comments as to what to print on. The 10S &10 S4 come with a glass sheet.. they say occasionally these can be warped a bit... lot use 3m painters tape...not the tape included with the printer.

These guys in the US do there own mat but many in the community like them... for when you get a few extra sheckles. https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/th3d-ezmat-build-surface/ And... there are a few people on thingverse who have done a printed set of parts for doing your own braces... not as good as what you can buy...but print the brackets & buy some threaded rod & bolts... everything you need is posted on the pages...easily found with a quick search.