3DLabPrint PT-17 Stearman

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
My 3D printer is just under 2 weeks old and I think most of the upgrades are done. The Anet A8 is a great starting platform and is uber-cheap, but it does require a lot of print-time making pieces to upgrade it. Part of the fun, I guess...? I was looking at the options from 3DLabPrint and the Stearman jumped out at me, so I pulled the trigger and downloaded the files.

There is certainly a learning curve with this stuff, and many thanks to those I've pestered with questions! I did a few small test-pieces with the horizontal stabilizer before I understood what I was doing. Results were good, but left room for improvement. Since then a lot more printing has been done and I feel ready to start printing Stearman parts for real!

Because I already had the filament loaded I'm starting with some cylinder heads and the exhaust ring. I'm printing these with "Aluminum" PLA filament from Hobby King. It calls for a hot-end temp between 190-200*C, but I found it's working much better at 205*. Bed temp of 60* as my usual 55* wasn't sticking securely. Retraction of 1mm at 50mm/s with support structures turned on, 15% infill and .1mm layer height.

In the pics you can see a little stringing between the heads, possibly because I'm running a higher temp than recommended? Either way, it's very light and rubs off easily. There is also stringing between the support structure pieces, so maybe the printer doesn't use any retraction for supports? The cylinder heads themselves (and the spark plugs) came out nice and detailed, needing only minor clean-up. The cooling fins had some very minor stringing, but again it was very easy to clean. Detail is better than expected. While I've got this filament in I'm also printing the exhaust ring that connects to all 7 cylinders. However, I'm printing it upside down so all support structures are on the back instead of the front. It'll take an extra hour to print and waste some filament, but the face of the ring will be cleaner looking. The main body of the engine may be this same aluminum, or I might switch to gray. It's a fairly big piece so the remaining 4 cylinder heads will be printed first to make sure I've got enough filament left in the .5 KG roll.


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ttprigg

Member
subscribed and curious to see your experiences!
Did you "slice it" yourself or use the gcode for the prusa?
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
One quick tip for getting rid of the very fine spiderwebish stringing. Just run the flame from a lighter over it quickly. Be careful on lighter colored prints that you don't get any soot on them...otherwise it works great. The fine strings are so fine they melt away instantly but you move the flame quickly enough it doesn't even soften the main print - even fine details in it.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Tested and successful! Thanks for the tip, it did clean up a few minor strings that I haven't gone after yet.
 

AkimboGlueGuns

Biplane Guy
Mentor
Thanks for the tip jhietsma. Will use for the next 3D printed build. I'm hoping those guys get their C152 out soon.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
The exhaust ring was next, an item which appears to be a problem item for people. It's big, has no flat surfaces, and is going to require quite a bit of support structure regardless of the orientation it's printed in. It appears that most people print it with the seven collector pipes down on the print bed, which results in the least amount of waste and the fastest print speed. That makes sense, but the problem I see is that printing it that way has the support structure across the front of the ring where it's more noticeable. Since I don't really know any better, I'm printing it with the front "up" on the bed. It takes about an hour longer at the .1mm resolution, but it's a nice day outside finally so it can just take it's time.

A couple hours into the print and all the support structure is done and the actual exhaust ring is underway. There are stringers in the support structure, but the rest of the print is looking good.

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After about 5 hours it's done! The only stringers are next to the 7 collector pipes on top, and as with the cylinder heads I think this may be due to printing at a higher than recommended temp (205, instead of the 190-200 recommended). These pick right off, so no problem.

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The only issue with the print quality is on the exhaust outlet, where it got pretty thin. This will be fairly easy to fix.

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And last, the front and back before any final cleanup and maybe a little sanding. I'm strongly considering getting some weathering paints & washes to make the engine look more realistic. The rest of the plane will probably include solid colors and the clear/natural filaments, but for some reason I think the engine should get the extra treatment.

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MarshallX

New member
I just finished my Stearman and I feel that this is the weakest 3DLabPrint plane he has put out yet, feels a bit rushed and not well thought out when compared to the other planes.

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A few complaints:
  1. The tab system for mounting the two wings together should be integrated minus the spars, there is no reason to have the tabs as seperate/glued in pieces.
  2. The windscreens don't fit at all and must be bent into place, this is 3D Printing, there's no reason they shouldn't have the exact profile of the fuselage.
  3. The Reverse mount on the motor is lame and requires you to change your motor. I actually broke the C-Clip on my brand new 3540 Turnigy 1000kv motor when I went to swap the shaft around.
  4. Dear god the instruction videos are atrocious. Skipping audio, fast forwarding through important parts, sections missing completely, background audio. Brutal.
  5. My #1 complaint is the control surface hinges, other places had fantastic in-set hinges that you push a carbon/piano wire into which give you an amazing hinge. This one has a slot for a ca-glued hinge which just doesn't come out as clean as the real wired hinge.

All in all a good plane, but we are 3d printing planes here and I think this one was rushed.
 

TazRC

Obsession, not hobby
MarshallX: Did you happen to get an AUW for the printed version?

Seems like a small brass-bristle wire brush would work well on the flashing.
 
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Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Mine has stalled while I try and get the wing panels to print properly. The outsides are fine, but some of the inner structure looks like it's printing only every other layer (although it is printing all layers). It's filled with tons of gaps. Now I haven't spent a ton of time trouble-shooting yet due to work travel, but I'll get there eventually.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Printing an airplane? No balsa? I don't even know you anymore. :confused:

My sincere and humble apologies to you, Patrick. If it makes you feel more at-ease, I'm using the printed parts in balsa planes. Overnight I printed a passenger for the front seat on my Pietenpol, and he now needs a coat of paint so I can install him and the pilot. It's extra weight to an already heavy 1/4 scale plane, but it should really help make the plane look more realistic on slow passes across the field.
 

nagromnewo

New member
Print settings for Cura 15.xx

Hi

I've been trying to print the 3DLabPrint Stearman, but am so far failing miserably. Since Simplify 3D just isn't in the budget at the moment I really hoped the ready made gcode files would work. When that failed I've been trying Cura. My problem is that I'm getting holes in the surface. I found that my Yellow Inland PLA is actually 1.7 mm, so I changed that in the settings in Cura and also use 110% flow. I tried reducing the retraction and now get a lot more stringing and lumps on the surface, but still get some holes. On my last attempt, I changed layer height from 0.2 to 0.12mm and that seemed to help a little, but there are still holes.

The printer is a Tronxy 802 which is very similar to an Anet A8. (Many people seem to think it's slightly better.)

I have many succesful prints with this printer, but this is my first attempt at anything with thin walls, and also my first attempt at using the Inland Filament.

Any ideas would be welcome.

Owen
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
Mentor
Hi

I've been trying to print the 3DLabPrint Stearman, but am so far failing miserably. Since Simplify 3D just isn't in the budget at the moment I really hoped the ready made gcode files would work. When that failed I've been trying Cura. My problem is that I'm getting holes in the surface. I found that my Yellow Inland PLA is actually 1.7 mm, so I changed that in the settings in Cura and also use 110% flow. I tried reducing the retraction and now get a lot more stringing and lumps on the surface, but still get some holes. On my last attempt, I changed layer height from 0.2 to 0.12mm and that seemed to help a little, but there are still holes.

The printer is a Tronxy 802 which is very similar to an Anet A8. (Many people seem to think it's slightly better.)

I have many succesful prints with this printer, but this is my first attempt at anything with thin walls, and also my first attempt at using the Inland Filament.

Any ideas would be welcome.

Owen

How much does the finished wing section vary from the posted weights? If it still comes out lighter bump retraction back to where you weren't getting a bunch of stringing and increase the extrusion multiplier another 5%.

Can you post pictures of what your wing sections look like? If you're really at a dead end I think someone with Simplify3D could try and slice the file for you with your desired changes from the defaults.

I'm working on printing a Stearman as well. Starting out with the landing gear as I don't know what color I want to print with yet. Might also end up using PETG instead of PLA just to try it out.

Tires are Ninjaflex printed on my Prusa i3 Mk2. I'm using Simplify 3D.

.2 Layer Height
6% Infill
4 Perimeters
5 Bottom and Top Layers
No Retraction
Coast .2mm
Wipe 2.0 mm
Extrusion Multiplyer 1.15
Fan 100% on 2nd layer
Extruder 230C
Bed 50C
Checked Avoid crossing outline for travel movements to reduce stringing.

Tire1.png Tire2.png Tire3.png Tire4.png
 

wilsonb

New member
I'm also printing the PT-17 using simplify3d. With the exception of the ninjaflex tires (i used my own profile), I used the provided factory files from 3dlabprint. I ran out of yellow for my top wing and Makergeeks is taking forever to fulfill my order.

I'm a huge fan of the design and look forward to building more of the 3D printed planes.
 

Findus

New member
I've build the Stearman as well and I had the same problem with the windows.

IMG_20170316_194222_1 (2).jpg

At the moment I tray to plaese the battery and the radio control in the plan. But I don't find a good solution.

Has somebody a picture how he has mount the battery and the radio contol?
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
That looks great! I really need to try printing mine again, it's fallen to the back-burner for a while as I got mad at not being able to print a couple of the pieces properly...