jaredstrees
Well-known member
Wow. Looking forward to see how it comes together. My A8 should be delivered Monday. Plan on doing a 3D lab print, but not one that size!
Andre,
My best friend got a CR-10 for Christmas and I was able to convince him to print me the big Spitfire as his first major print. After days of tweaking the settings, he seems to have it dialed in and is almost done with the left wing. He says test fits all look good.
What settings do you have your printer set at? I know each printer will be different, but just curious. Also, Simplify3D made all the difference. Those settings were very close right out the gate. I'm guessing if he had a Prusa all would be perfect.
I was wondering what power set up you plan on going with. I e-mailed the guys here at Flite Test and they said they hoped to have a power pack for this build by March, but couldn't guarantee it.
Thanks
Graham
Andre,
My best friend got a CR-10 for Christmas and I was able to convince him to print me the big Spitfire as his first major print. After days of tweaking the settings, he seems to have it dialed in and is almost done with the left wing. He says test fits all look good.
What settings do you have your printer set at? I know each printer will be different, but just curious. Also, Simplify3D made all the difference. Those settings were very close right out the gate. I'm guessing if he had a Prusa all would be perfect.
I was wondering what power set up you plan on going with. I e-mailed the guys here at Flite Test and they said they hoped to have a power pack for this build by March, but couldn't guarantee it.
Thanks
Graham
I do a lot of tuning to make my settings in S3D work but its mainly speed and retraction changes.
Rest if about belts, alignments and bed levelling.
Power setup, I'll have to update the first entry soon.
ESC:
Castle Creations TALON 90 AMP ESC, 6S / 25.2V WITH 20 AMP BEC
I saw this doesn't come with a choice of adapters, so I assume you do your own soldering. At least doing these are easier than doing batteries. I had a small two cell battery short on me back in my early naive days, and it wasn't pretty. After that I took the time to learn how to do it correctly: got the right paste, and a much better iron, and a cool jig that makes it really easy. Still doesn't mean I'm the best. I still get cold joints every so often, which especially sucks when you're at the field and the 12 year old goes to disconnect the battery, only to have one of the leads come out. My field box contains electrical tape for just such an occurrence. But it takes a lot of practice to get consistent solder joints, and I just don't do it often enough. But since the 70amp ESC is out of stock, I may have to go your route, I have some XT90 connectors lying around.
Also, a couple of questions:
Can post the final weight when it's all assembled, motor, battery, etc. I'll do the same. I'm curious to see if how an individual printer prints will make a difference on weight. We, too, are using the 3D Solutech filament. I'll also note my final set up/weight.
- With only a 70g difference between the 4500 and the 6200, the bigger battery may be the way to go as well (plus the price difference isn't much). How much flight time do you think the 6200 will add? 3-5mins?
- Why did you choose to go with the longer prop?
Thanks
Here are photos of the ailerons and flaps that just finished printing.
View attachment 101470 View attachment 101471
Here is the left wing. I'll try and organize them better and get a better shot.
View attachment 101472
Someones got the 3D print itch that needs scratching! Love it andre! Can't wait to see how it all comes out!
Blessings friend,
Stefan
Someones got the 3D print itch that needs scratching! Love it andre! Can't wait to see how it all comes out!
Blessings friend,
Stefan
If all goes as planned, the Spitfire will be coming with me to FF Ohio 2018.
FF Texas??