4 Metre Glider Scratch Build
- Thread starter Jackson T
- Start date
Piotrsko
Master member
Last bird attack was mid wing right side and was fatal. Bird looked ok but was really shocked since it had to ride the crash down.
Do you have a Michael's or Joanne or big box craft store near by? The bigger ones have cheap 48"long balsa and spruce. And sometimes K&N music wire. Not to the same extant but true value hardware sometimes or Canadian tire if you're up that away.
Im thinking you might want to consider something about 2 meters as a first attempt . Just saying because 4 meters is more like building a full-time airplane than anything else.
Parle vous airplane? OUI? Just ask. I'm also fluent in geezer if you stay off my lawn.
Do you have a Michael's or Joanne or big box craft store near by? The bigger ones have cheap 48"long balsa and spruce. And sometimes K&N music wire. Not to the same extant but true value hardware sometimes or Canadian tire if you're up that away.
Im thinking you might want to consider something about 2 meters as a first attempt . Just saying because 4 meters is more like building a full-time airplane than anything else.
Parle vous airplane? OUI? Just ask. I'm also fluent in geezer if you stay off my lawn.
Jackson T
Elite member
Ouch, that's a bummer! I live in Australia and we only have Bunnings. They sell their balsa in 91cm lengths and 7.5 or 10cm wide. I have scratch built two balsa planes before, but you're right, I did pick quite a full-on project considering my design and building skills! I guess I'm learning on the job, asking questions before doing anything tricky so I don't find out the hard way. I'm really keen to design and build crazy planes for the sake of a challenge, which is why I'm building this. it's not that hard anyway with all the ideas and expertise everyone on the forum shares, including you. Thanks!
Jackson T
Elite member
So I cut the leading and trailing edges for the wing, but they are REALLY warped, as in like a 3cm displacement from a 91cm length! The timber I bought was straight, but when I cut it it just went curly. How exactly do you use steam to straighten balsa, or is there a better way?
TooJung2Die
Master member
Looks good! 
Jackson T
Elite member
Finished the ribs at the ends today.
The wing joining spar goes through here. Hopefully with the shear webbing and leading edge sheeting added it will be strong enough to take the load!
I'm thinking of possibly using carbon fibre instead of aluminium for the wing joining spars. Any ideas on if/how that would work? I was thinking of starting with a piece of balsa and putting a few layers of carbon on the top and bottom like the rest of the wing. Does that sound alright?
I'm thinking of possibly using carbon fibre instead of aluminium for the wing joining spars. Any ideas on if/how that would work? I was thinking of starting with a piece of balsa and putting a few layers of carbon on the top and bottom like the rest of the wing. Does that sound alright?
Jackson T
Elite member
Done the shear webbing on the front!
The shear webbing on the front doesn't go all the way to the top or bottom so the sheeting can sit on it without sticking up. Is that how it's normally done? I have to wait to buy more balsa before doing the shear webbing on the other side. I live out of town and won't be in town until next thursday. On a brighter note, My dad and I set up a work bench in the shed yesterday so I don't have to build on the dining room table anymore
It's nice and big, too! I think it's something like 240cm x 95cm.
The shear webbing on the front doesn't go all the way to the top or bottom so the sheeting can sit on it without sticking up. Is that how it's normally done? I have to wait to buy more balsa before doing the shear webbing on the other side. I live out of town and won't be in town until next thursday
. On a brighter note, My dad and I set up a work bench in the shed yesterday so I don't have to build on the dining room table anymore
It's nice and big, too! I think it's something like 240cm x 95cm.
bracesport
Legendary member
@Jackson T - love your effort on this one - can't wait to see the final bird!
Jackson T
Elite member
Thanks Bracesport! Neither can I! How's your Vista DLG style motor glider going? I'm really intrigued by all the foamboard DLG's that you, Flyboa, and a few others have been building. I've been looking into some ways I could make a DLG. Where do you get your foam from over in NZ? How heavy is it? I get mine from Riot Art and Craft, and it's ~ 450 grams per square metre.
I like to put a slow glue (like Titebond or Superphatic) on the leading edge, spar, and all the ribs where the sheet is going to touch. Then I use a combination of weights to hold the sheeting down at the spar, and masking tape to hold the leading edge down tight. Or you can just glue the leading edge to the sheeting first using pins or clamps to hold it in place, and after the first glue dries then bend the sheeting down and glue the rest in place. Sort of depends on what you have handy to hold things in place with.
Jackson T
Elite member
Thanks Rockyboy, I will do that!
bracesport
Legendary member
@Jackson T - I use Adams ready board which is light and cheap, but the paper falls off too easy - I also use a heavier one (surface is a tad more card like) but I don't know the brand - they both fly well as weight is not that different!
I can't compete with @flyboa for his sweet birds, he can sure make them light!
I can't compete with @flyboa for his sweet birds, he can sure make them light!
Jackson T
Elite member
Adams ready board as in the original stuff FT used to use? Where do you get that from? Yeah, flyboa certainly does make some sweet planes!
TooJung2Die
Master member
I use CA glue when sheeting. Hold the sheeting in place and put a small drop of glue on the edge. Hold it for 15 seconds while it wicks into the wood and sets. Move down the sheet a few inches and tack it down again. When the whole sheet it tacked down go around the edge again adding small drops in between the first tacks. If you can get to the backside of the sheet add a final bead of CA around the whole edge. You get no warping from the weights or holes from pins. There's no waiting for the glue to set and no lifting of the edges. On the downside, If you use too much CA it is hard to sand smooth so use very little, take your time and don't glue your fingers to the wood,
Jackson T
Elite member
Sounds like another good idea! It all depends on whether I have the patience to wait for my ca glue to get here from Hobbyking
. Yeah, it's a pain when you glue your fingers to your work. I have done it more times than I'd rather admit
bracesport
Legendary member
@Jackson T - do you have an 'Uncle Bills' in Aus - they have the Adams Ready Board - $3 ea!
