Dude, you deserve a lot of props. Your videos are entertaining and nice to watch. Thanks for sharing your plans and videos.
42" Mitsubishi A6M Zero Swappable - Build Thread
- Thread starter localfiend
- Start date
Dude, you deserve a lot of props. Your videos are entertaining and nice to watch. Thanks for sharing your plans and videos.
jpot1
Elite member
Two questions looking at the tiled plans:
1. When I printed the tiled plans several of the lines span the dashed outlines. Do I cut along the dashes or try to align and not cut through?
2. Any pictures of the hatch. Trying to figure out what keeps it in place. I see the former in the back slots in but in the front is it just friction?
1. When I printed the tiled plans several of the lines span the dashed outlines. Do I cut along the dashes or try to align and not cut through?
2. Any pictures of the hatch. Trying to figure out what keeps it in place. I see the former in the back slots in but in the front is it just friction?
I cut through the dashes on one sheet, and tape the cut sheet above the uncut ones. The plans that go over the dashed outlines just help line things up.
The "former" as you call it goes from the hatch down into the fuselage. Then I just run a BBQ skewer through the fuse and the "formers". Holds stuff in place very well.
TestMaster
Junior Member
This plane is hands down the nicest, coolest looking, FT style plane. I'm so glad to be able to add another warbird to my collection, thanks for bringing this out, you have no idea how exited I am right now.
Yeah, 1.6 is a good starting point. You can always move it back a tad afterwards to gain more maneuverability. I sometimes steal ideas from the best of them.
I think the paper fold overs were a FT idea I borrowed.Glad you like it. It's a bit rougher than some of my other builds, but the lines are clean. I need to come back and make a v2 of this one eventually with upgraded canopy and cowl.
jpot1
Elite member
Well had and interesting maiden. First toss, not enough elevator throw, got it down successfully. Second toss with ~90% travel and was trying to trim in up elevator as it still wanted to dive and I ended up in a tree. Got it out but looking for suggestions. I use a shortened power pod so I cut through the cowl to install the battery. Had it all the way forward to balance at 1.6 inches cog from the leading edge. Move it back a bit perhaps? Too much down thrust?
Picture of the shorter pod.
Motor angle.
Picture of the shorter pod.
Motor angle.
Yeah, move CG back a bit if you don't have enough elevator. I need to build another one of these and finalize the plans and little details. This thing is capable of really tight loops, elevator authority should not be an issue.
Try CG at 2".
Try CG at 2".
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jpot1
Elite member
Thanks, I think I ended up slightly more than 2 inches and it flew beautifully. On to paint!
Paint looks great! Nice job. I need to build another, and then update the plans. They're a bit outdated now.
Glad you like it. It really is a fun plane to fly. I need to hurry and get another built and on floats before summer goes away.
I've thought about doing a corsair, but there are several out there already.
Alp's looks really good, though it's a more complicated build.
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?16244-F4U-Black-Corsair
You could also blow up the mighty mini corsair. Friend at my local RC club did this when it was first released. Looked and flew great.
fishingbeast01
New member
Love this build.
I used your plans as a starting point.( My first war bird)Changed the wing a little,used foam instead of poster board,right and down thrust on the pod and made a removable hatch.I want to thank you for all your work on the plans.They are a great help.Reading your thread inspired me to do this build.Thank you. This is what I have so far.
I used your plans as a starting point.( My first war bird)Changed the wing a little,used foam instead of poster board,right and down thrust on the pod and made a removable hatch.I want to thank you for all your work on the plans.They are a great help.Reading your thread inspired me to do this build.Thank you. This is what I have so far.
Very cool man, I like the battery hatch. Those make for much cleaner looking planes.
The foam covering looks good as well, hard to do at this size and keep things looking good. I always end up creasing stuff.
The foam covering looks good as well, hard to do at this size and keep things looking good. I always end up creasing stuff.
LocalFiend,
I'm back! I'm getting ready to start gluing the pieces together, but I'm a little confused about 2 parts. Namely, they are the down thrust piece and the fuse support. I'm not sure where they go and how. I'm assuming the marks suggest to remove the foam in the hashed areas, or is it a particular A, B, or C type fold? Any info will be helpful.
Is the CG still at 2"?
I'm planning on trying to put the ELE and RUD servo in the back closer to their respective surfaces. This will result in a shorter rod length and flex. I think it will give me more space in the power pod battery compartment area. I like your plans where I can take the top off and install the battery. I'm tired of taking the power pod out and having to put it back in.
I started to try to learn how to use Adobe Illustrator so I maybe able to make skins for my future builds including yours. I can't say I'm at the same level of Rastersize, but I'm striving to be so. My skins are more basic than his, but I'm still learning. I try to study his plans to learn how he did something and/or get ideas on how to improve ones I've done so far. Here are a couple of screen shots of the skins I printed out and will be using for the 42" Zero.
The power set up I'm going to use is based on the FT Racer/Ripslinger I used on the past. The motor is a 3536-1400KV with a 8x4 prop. The ESC is a 60a and the battery is a 4s 2200mah 35c.
I can forward both the PDF of the skins and the illustrator file if you like.
BTW, my/your micro zero still is in one piece. She flies fast! I still get a kick out of it. Several of the other guys have a micro mustang and P-40 and they try to chase me down like its WW2!!!
Thanks for all you have done and thanks for all the inspiration!
Greg C
I'm back! I'm getting ready to start gluing the pieces together, but I'm a little confused about 2 parts. Namely, they are the down thrust piece and the fuse support. I'm not sure where they go and how. I'm assuming the marks suggest to remove the foam in the hashed areas, or is it a particular A, B, or C type fold? Any info will be helpful.
Is the CG still at 2"?
I'm planning on trying to put the ELE and RUD servo in the back closer to their respective surfaces. This will result in a shorter rod length and flex. I think it will give me more space in the power pod battery compartment area. I like your plans where I can take the top off and install the battery. I'm tired of taking the power pod out and having to put it back in.
I started to try to learn how to use Adobe Illustrator so I maybe able to make skins for my future builds including yours. I can't say I'm at the same level of Rastersize, but I'm striving to be so. My skins are more basic than his, but I'm still learning. I try to study his plans to learn how he did something and/or get ideas on how to improve ones I've done so far. Here are a couple of screen shots of the skins I printed out and will be using for the 42" Zero.
The power set up I'm going to use is based on the FT Racer/Ripslinger I used on the past. The motor is a 3536-1400KV with a 8x4 prop. The ESC is a 60a and the battery is a 4s 2200mah 35c.
I can forward both the PDF of the skins and the illustrator file if you like.
BTW, my/your micro zero still is in one piece. She flies fast! I still get a kick out of it. Several of the other guys have a micro mustang and P-40 and they try to chase me down like its WW2!!!
Thanks for all you have done and thanks for all the inspiration!
Greg C
I think I figured it out. I'm assuming the downward thrus part fits above the power pod to have a slight downward angle to the motor and prop. I'll probably just shim the motor mount to the right just a bit to achieve the necessary angulation.
Here is my progress so far:
I got to work on the main wings and several other pieces but all the skins are glued on. I like it so far!
Greg C
Here is my progress so far:
I got to work on the main wings and several other pieces but all the skins are glued on. I like it so far!
Greg C
I managed to finish my Zero! Great build. I'm not much of a rudder flyer so I left it out. Less weight. I also left the lower rear poster board cover to allow for the air to pass freely thru to cool the ESC. My AUW is 754g Not too bad. It weighs 282g with the RX and 3 servos inside, no esc or power pod. The weight of the plane without the battery is 512g. I think she's on the lighter side. Based on your weight of 272 unpainted, I think it might be a wash in terms of glued on skins vs. painting the white plane in the end of the build process. I've found gluing on the skins adds the detailing work at the beginning instead of the end.
I can't wait to fly the plane. Sorry for the sideways photos. For some reason this forum doesn't put them in with the correct orientation.
Because FliteFest West is coming at the end of April, I might build one more for my son to fly there.
Thanks for looking and Thanks, LocalFiend for the plans yet again!
GregC
I can't wait to fly the plane. Sorry for the sideways photos. For some reason this forum doesn't put them in with the correct orientation.
Because FliteFest West is coming at the end of April, I might build one more for my son to fly there.
Thanks for looking and Thanks, LocalFiend for the plans yet again!
GregC
