Timmy
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Talent
57´Chevy Air Racer
- Thread starter leaded50
- Start date
leaded50
Legendary member
well, its mostly that needs can see how it should be ready builded, and find the solutions too build it to that. Mainly all parts is made to big, and adjusted down in size to what fits. Not to be afraid it gets wrong, then its just needs a change there, either with a new whole piece, or just a minor piece to embed with the rest. A wrong cut? well, glue fixing it!
leaded50
Legendary member
wewe had much heavy rain and wind , and even suddenly one day snow!!!! So or field isnt up to use . We need some days of nice weather before can think of a maiden.
leaded50
Legendary member
See that on the 3D view drawing its made a blue line around on outside of the red fuselage. The reason for that is that every sidepanel should fit from center of bottom to top center! You CANT just follow the red fuselage as sidepanel!!
Here is what i found back from the Chevy build...... 😁 well, i can make a better understanding on how to build!
Here is what i found back from the Chevy build...... 😁 well, i can make a better understanding on how to build!
leaded50
Legendary member
when you see on the red colored drawing of the fuselage, its a black line all the way from front to end, Not at center of motor in front, but center of the rear fuselage tip! This line is what are the reference-line where foamboard "internal board" is to be placed. (line at top of the internal.)
At this picture you can see some formers are glued on, others not. Also one side of the batterybox are glued in, (this box-sides are 120mm X 45mm and in the other end 35mm height. )
Its just 4 formers without the firewall. If want to strenghten that even more, just shape a top-part former in foamboard to fit at the back of eg. plywood motormount.
All formers should have a line from top to bottom at center! The reason is that this line will be the reference for skins to be cut to fit in place top & bottom!
At this picture you can see some formers are glued on, others not. Also one side of the batterybox are glued in, (this box-sides are 120mm X 45mm and in the other end 35mm height. )
Its just 4 formers without the firewall. If want to strenghten that even more, just shape a top-part former in foamboard to fit at the back of eg. plywood motormount.
All formers should have a line from top to bottom at center! The reason is that this line will be the reference for skins to be cut to fit in place top & bottom!
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leaded50
Legendary member
As can be seen here, the internal "board" w/formers are sstarted glued at where its marked "A"
And the sidepanels are easy cut, just a touch longer than necessary for adjustment eg.
The height is as written here, 148mm (74 + 74mm) Make that scribled line inside on the foam (of course the inner paper must be removed, and the whole skin shaped against a table edge, as shown in all the FT Master build movies. And it needs be shaped against the edge much, specially on bottom/top part, sine they also must be the top/bottom part on the plane, with some sharper shape.
Then you can glue the internal on correct place on the skin. Straight at the scribled line , but as start, JUST at where its marked "A" , (who is the 3.section from the front rearward).!
And the sidepanels are easy cut, just a touch longer than necessary for adjustment eg.
The height is as written here, 148mm (74 + 74mm) Make that scribled line inside on the foam (of course the inner paper must be removed, and the whole skin shaped against a table edge, as shown in all the FT Master build movies. And it needs be shaped against the edge much, specially on bottom/top part, sine they also must be the top/bottom part on the plane, with some sharper shape.
Then you can glue the internal on correct place on the skin. Straight at the scribled line , but as start, JUST at where its marked "A" , (who is the 3.section from the front rearward).!
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leaded50
Legendary member
when glued in at "A", more rearward you can see the skin not follow the shape of the internal, just as on the picture with space between internal and skin.
to fix that, we need adjust the sideskins! You cant just bend a little to get the skin glued on, that will give problems later, when you shall glue the skin to center of formers, all the way from front to rear in a curb shape.
"V-cuts" as shown on this picture is correct. Make a V-cut at where formers are, (not on the last one to rear) when the sideskins can easy be pushed against the internal for gluing. If its not easy, check if it bends in the V-cuts (need cut wider) or if needs make the V-cuts deeper/longer.
Here you can see the opening between internals and skin have disappeared, because of the two V-cuts at former.
to fix that, we need adjust the sideskins! You cant just bend a little to get the skin glued on, that will give problems later, when you shall glue the skin to center of formers, all the way from front to rear in a curb shape.
"V-cuts" as shown on this picture is correct. Make a V-cut at where formers are, (not on the last one to rear) when the sideskins can easy be pushed against the internal for gluing. If its not easy, check if it bends in the V-cuts (need cut wider) or if needs make the V-cuts deeper/longer.
Here you can see the opening between internals and skin have disappeared, because of the two V-cuts at former.
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leaded50
Legendary member
Here im glued in the section on bottom, where "A" is. To roll it against a table, and hold til glued, or hold by hand as i did here with help of a aluminum ruler to glue is set, is an nice way to do it.
Yes, it can be easier using double formers on every spot. Im using only one... thats a decission for each one.
the last former doesnt need any V-cut. At rear just remove some of the end of foam at center line (10-20mm) before glued on.
and on the front part, we dont glue the skins to the internals before firewall/motor is installed..
Yes, it can be easier using double formers on every spot. Im using only one... thats a decission for each one.
the last former doesnt need any V-cut. At rear just remove some of the end of foam at center line (10-20mm) before glued on.
and on the front part, we dont glue the skins to the internals before firewall/motor is installed..
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leaded50
Legendary member
At the rear where tailfin comes, its made some cuts in just the foam where shape from the "rear fender to fin on top" comes, for easier shaping. Then it can easy fit to the last former without a lot of pressure. Alsao this foamcuts are made a touch concave to look similar to a fender to fin top. This inside foamcuts gets you a way to angle the top out at side again, the other way than done by the sliding on the table edge to make the fuselage/fender round shape outside to bottom..
leaded50
Legendary member
Then ... at front we dont glue the skin to the internals, wait til the motor/firewall is in place. Also its a good idea to put in servos and pushrods for the tail already.?
One side of the fuselage is done! Adjustment on the start (or type) of tailfin isnt made yet though.
IF some of your gluing of parts on top or bottom lets go.... you havent done enough use of sliding on the tableedge, not made the foam "shapeable" enough!! Thats isnt just something needed, its essential for a best possible nice build.!
Then with the other side-skin, do as done here, start gluing in where section A is, The internal on the scribled centerline on the skin... and on further. Then you will also easy see why the line from top and bottom on the formers are essential. The last skin will go over the other side one. By using the line on formers for reference, you an make a line between the markings made on the skin by the line on formers... Cut at the line, and the skin will fit against the other side skin. Glue in, and go to next part, check where former line is to make reference mark on the skin, cutt, and glue, and so on til ready by bottom & top here too. .
PS! make a bigger hole in the front former bottom, reason is that there the wires from motor to esc is going, and also air to cool down esc, lets say keep approx 10mm to the skin sides/bottom.
Also see that the top of batterybox sides are cut slanted, thats to fit approx the shape of the skin sides + strengthen shape.
One side of the fuselage is done! Adjustment on the start (or type) of tailfin isnt made yet though.
IF some of your gluing of parts on top or bottom lets go.... you havent done enough use of sliding on the tableedge, not made the foam "shapeable" enough!! Thats isnt just something needed, its essential for a best possible nice build.!
Then with the other side-skin, do as done here, start gluing in where section A is, The internal on the scribled centerline on the skin... and on further. Then you will also easy see why the line from top and bottom on the formers are essential. The last skin will go over the other side one. By using the line on formers for reference, you an make a line between the markings made on the skin by the line on formers... Cut at the line, and the skin will fit against the other side skin. Glue in, and go to next part, check where former line is to make reference mark on the skin, cutt, and glue, and so on til ready by bottom & top here too. .
PS! make a bigger hole in the front former bottom, reason is that there the wires from motor to esc is going, and also air to cool down esc, lets say keep approx 10mm to the skin sides/bottom.
Also see that the top of batterybox sides are cut slanted, thats to fit approx the shape of the skin sides + strengthen shape.
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leaded50
Legendary member
Frontpart. The sideskins are cutted down to approx 15mm passing how you want your front to angle rearward. (or even if want it it plain straight in height.) Then cut in V-shapes on waht should be surrounding the air-intake using fingers to shape each part to fiyt together before gluing. Also put some clue on the backside, then it will easier keep the shape.
(yeah top got a typical 50´s car headlightcover over on top of motor.).
Here its already glued and got some superlight wallfiller on it. How far back your firewall should be, depends on what motor used. A shorter motor, more to the front, and other way.
(yeah top got a typical 50´s car headlightcover over on top of motor.).
Here its already glued and got some superlight wallfiller on it. How far back your firewall should be, depends on what motor used. A shorter motor, more to the front, and other way.
leaded50
Legendary member
To fly it need a wing anyway....here, 700mm X 180mm. After curbing good the panels on the table-edge, i used a tube to shape even better rounded more the leading edge when set the top skin to bottom wing skin. As can be seen the lower skin (upper needs that too) the trailing edge has got reduced thickness inside, When both are lued together, holdt in press to glue sets, or used something for enough press, or just used masking tape over the edge to keep it there to glue sets... you got a nice thin slippery trailing edge.
Style is more alike the NACA 2412, who was a airprofile of that time too. Basically its a sexier version of Clark Y (1922 vintage).
Style is more alike the NACA 2412, who was a airprofile of that time too. Basically its a sexier version of Clark Y (1922 vintage).
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