800 Series | nnSpitfire
- Thread starter nerdnic
- Start date
Painted! First time I did a camo, it's quite easy I think. I'm already doing my FT Spear in the same style. Painting is fun!
Amiromaan, your plane is awesome. Is it made from "polyfoam"?
Hello everybody, I just excited in this plane hobby just in the new year 2017. New year, new hobby. Allright, before i jump in, i already learn and know all about drone. Some FPV setup for the drone and all the stuff. Esc, chargee, balancer, lipo, brushed, brushless. I understand all of it, almost.
Januari 2017, im trying to make my first plane. Jet plane, pushing type motor, it was horrible. Crash 10times, never fly, broken.
My second plane was FT Spitfire, fly very nice, even 1st flight crash, now i can gain control of this plane. Now my spitfire got too much glue in it, cause I sometime crash in the fight. So much crash, you can call me newbie.
Long searching so many type of FT plane, i think their design is almost the same (swappable pod), i dont really like it, its too big. If i create mighty minis, its too small for my electronic setup. then i found Nick Lechner, i love your spitfire, im trying now to build one of these with "polyfoam". I believe polyfoam is the same thing you called depron. It doesnt have any paper on it, just foam. Yes, it is break easily, but can be easy repaired too.
Please help me, i believe my spec is too much for this size, but help me decide and judge, is it ideal or not?
Motor RCTimer 2200kv 2826 (50gr)
ESC hobbywing 40A w BEC 5V (40gr)
Props? plenty of them, i choose 8x5
Battery drone, VCANZ 4s 1500mAh, 95C (200gr)
9gram servo
How about that?
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Many thanks, im sorry my english maybe seems weird, but i hope you get my point.
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Very well done! Your build came out very clean and should fly great!
Hi! Welcome to the forum! Your electronics will work but you'll be a little on the heavier side. It will fly fine though if you're a decent pilot. It sounds like you're still growing your plane flying skill so please be careful. This plane is more advanced than the FT Spitfire. I think if you're comfortable with the FT Spitfire then you'll be okay. But if you still struggle on the FT plane then it might be best to hold off on my designs for a little.
Your foam sounds just like depron. You can build with this material with no issue. Just make the same kind of adjustments you made while building the FT planes.
Good luck and keep us posted!
You re right, still learning how to fly properly. Thinking about taking off the new spitfire(your design), will crash immediately, LOL.
But why i choose to build new plane?, it is smaller and battery access from the top of the plane which is great.
Thank you for your response, now i ve my depron cutted, its time to figure how to put it together nice and solid.
CrossedUpChris
Member
This is a tough plane!
Nic I thought you might want to know how much of a beating this plane can take. At the weekend I found out that if nose dI've vertically with full rudder the spit would do a cool blender/flatspin move. It's the coolest acrobatic move I've ever learned. Unfortunately I also learned the limits of my talents and ate it big time face first into the soft ground. It made a classic 'THWUMP!" sound.
Anyway, the wing came away from the fuse but apart from that, structurally, everything is fine. Here's some pics before and after the fix.
I need to redo the wing fairings and the paint job is a bit ruined but the rest of the plane seems to be fine. I think the bbq skewers in the fuse and the speed wing design add some serious strength.
While it's on the bench, I have a spare 2500kv turnigy sk3 2836 that could give this plane some extra punch. It would mean running on a 3s instead of 4s but could make for a rapid little plane.
I'll post again when I finished the repairs / mods.
Nic I thought you might want to know how much of a beating this plane can take. At the weekend I found out that if nose dI've vertically with full rudder the spit would do a cool blender/flatspin move. It's the coolest acrobatic move I've ever learned. Unfortunately I also learned the limits of my talents and ate it big time face first into the soft ground. It made a classic 'THWUMP!" sound.
Anyway, the wing came away from the fuse but apart from that, structurally, everything is fine. Here's some pics before and after the fix.
I need to redo the wing fairings and the paint job is a bit ruined but the rest of the plane seems to be fine. I think the bbq skewers in the fuse and the speed wing design add some serious strength.
While it's on the bench, I have a spare 2500kv turnigy sk3 2836 that could give this plane some extra punch. It would mean running on a 3s instead of 4s but could make for a rapid little plane.
I'll post again when I finished the repairs / mods.
Arhif, your electronics don't really match if you ask me. 2200kv with 4s and 8x5 should be total overload for 2826, right?
I fly 2200kv with 3s and 6x4 or 6x5 and hope that I don't burn out.
In my experience the larger planes (like FT racer) are much more forgiving in launching, but I see you're already building it.
Here I put some tips for depron building this plane: http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?31640-800-Series-nnSpitfire&p=323770#post323770
actually I never combine my hobbywing ESC 40A with my 4S battery. usually Im using my 3S 1050mAh.
now i have my nnspitfire 90% finish (minus the turtledeck posterboard), this plane is too heavy with my electronic.
I decide to master the FT spitfire first. and the nnSpitfire 800 series later. need more practice. thanks man, your post is a must for me. only depron available in my city.
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out of topic, from nnSpitfire design, I try to modify the FT Spitfire so that the electronic plane can be accessed from the top hatch. I just take the wing, throw away the semi-broken fuselage. Thats good.
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Ill post the photo soon
I wanted to say to everyone: so far you all are rocking this design. Everyone of your builds are coming out with solid clean lines and I just love seeing your work. Thank you all for sharing your builds up to this point! I've added them all to my site to show them off!
CrossedUpChris
Member
The pics look great. I made anot her small mod the other day.
I didnt have any magnets so I used two small pieces of the hooked side of velcro to hold the hatch in place. Don't use a piece of each (fuzzy and hooked) as they won't slide, but the 2 hooked sides make a great friction fit
I didnt have any magnets so I used two small pieces of the hooked side of velcro to hold the hatch in place. Don't use a piece of each (fuzzy and hooked) as they won't slide, but the 2 hooked sides make a great friction fit
jpot1
Elite member
So I had built the 800mm and really liked the way it flew.
But I only have two motors and didn't like moving it from one power pod to the regular size FT pod. Solution = build the full size nnSpitfire and adapt it for the FT pod.
My planes typically do not last too long as my piloting skills are novice to intermediate. I am not looking for speed just a smooth flyer. I adapted the plans to a more standard wing with undercamber wing tips and only a single thickness hstab and vstab. Lastly I had the hstab go all the way across to simplify the build as I am skipping the rudder servo this time.
Assuming maiden goes well I plan on painting and adding the canopy and other details. Great plans Nic!
But I only have two motors and didn't like moving it from one power pod to the regular size FT pod. Solution = build the full size nnSpitfire and adapt it for the FT pod.
My planes typically do not last too long as my piloting skills are novice to intermediate. I am not looking for speed just a smooth flyer. I adapted the plans to a more standard wing with undercamber wing tips and only a single thickness hstab and vstab. Lastly I had the hstab go all the way across to simplify the build as I am skipping the rudder servo this time.
Assuming maiden goes well I plan on painting and adding the canopy and other details. Great plans Nic!
Finally got mine airborne.
Got some problems with trimming as I tried a new tx and didnt realise that I had to define the amount of trimming you can do inflight. After fixing that it flew ok, though it was very twitchy. Got the cg at 3.5cm, so more forward than needed. I think this behaviour comes because of the dihedral which I reduced by half by accident during building. It requires to pay more attention than with other planes but that kinda adds up to a good over all war bird feeling
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The most awesome thing about this bird is imho the looks of her in air. Its just amazing. Its really the most beautiful plane Ive build.
I do intend to build another one (this time with the correct dihedral), though Im going for the full size nnP-39 first
thanks for your awesome designs Nic!
Got some problems with trimming as I tried a new tx and didnt realise that I had to define the amount of trimming you can do inflight. After fixing that it flew ok, though it was very twitchy. Got the cg at 3.5cm, so more forward than needed. I think this behaviour comes because of the dihedral which I reduced by half by accident during building. It requires to pay more attention than with other planes but that kinda adds up to a good over all war bird feeling
. The most awesome thing about this bird is imho the looks of her in air. Its just amazing. Its really the most beautiful plane Ive build.
I do intend to build another one (this time with the correct dihedral), though Im going for the full size nnP-39 first
thanks for your awesome designs Nic!
One thing in addition. I modded the power pod of yours Nic as it has a very bad tendency to wrinkle during landings. As the pos is inserted inverted (upside down U) the weak side of the pod is the downer side. During landing, if the prop touches the ground first, this is the part where the pod is stressed the most (angular momentum and stuff). I added a small downer plate to the pod to counteract the problem. It reenforces the pod a lot but is small enough that you still have access to all motor connectors and for batteries. Im really not sure why this isnt standard design for pods as it really helps a lot, even for normal power pods. So if any of you have such problems, try this design:
To keep the hight of the pod the same, the downer plate does not use the same fold as the upper plate, it fits between the walls.
Note that you have to flip the angle of the upper plate to the downer plate (eg: right angle on upper is let angle on downer).
Hope somebody can use this idea,
xMeox
To keep the hight of the pod the same, the downer plate does not use the same fold as the upper plate, it fits between the walls.
Note that you have to flip the angle of the upper plate to the downer plate (eg: right angle on upper is let angle on downer).
Hope somebody can use this idea,
xMeox
Your changes came out really good. I know of 1 other 1000mm nnSpitfire that was built to this point. Both look great and I can't wait to hear how it flies!
Finally got mine airborne.
Got some problems with trimming as I tried a new tx and didnt realise that I had to define the amount of trimming you can do inflight. After fixing that it flew ok, though it was very twitchy. Got the cg at 3.5cm, so more forward than needed. I think this behaviour comes because of the dihedral which I reduced by half by accident during building. It requires to pay more attention than with other planes but that kinda adds up to a good over all war bird feeling
The most awesome thing about this bird is imho the looks of her in air. Its just amazing. Its really the most beautiful plane Ive build.
I do intend to build another one (this time with the correct dihedral), though Im going for the full size nnP-39 first
thanks for your awesome designs Nic!
Interesting on the CG, mine was really unstable further than 5cm, but it was solid around 4. How is your elevator throw, is it set per the gauge in the plans? I noticed the elevator is really responsive on this design, so a little goes a long long way.
This is good feedback. Your mod is simple and sounds like it's effective. I'm gonna play around with it and will add this to the official design most likely.
Thanks for the input!
