Adventuring into my first MS design. BF-109 G2.

bwarz

Master member
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finally got everything cut out for build #2 so I can be sure the plans are solid. another busy weekend ahead with family stuff but as an insomniac, I think I'll find some time....
 

bwarz

Master member
Bahhhhh I should have figured it'd be one of those nights when the one camera that I'm recording with shut down after 20 minutes. I'd been recording the build and testing the plans as uploaded, not expecting anything major as far as problems go. If I would have glued the one freaking skin on with the centerline accurate I'm sure things would have gone better.:mad::cry: It's off by a millimeter or two, which it putting off the wing slot, causing the cockpit area to be off... you get the picture. Oh, my phone storage is full too, so no more video of my mistake :ROFLMAO:

The one former needs to be shrunk just a touch, as things go together just too tightly, making the build a PITA once I started getting out skins in place. Now I've found that one of the skins is off by a touch, leaving an unsightly 2mm gap toward the bottom. It also looks as though another skin is off by a touch as well - just like 1mm gap, but enough to annoy me. The problem I've got now is I don't want to tweak too much in the line of the skin 'gaps' as I can't be sure what would be accurate if I wouldn't have screwed up on the first skin!

So now, do I rip off all of the skins, reprint, recut, and work on reassembly to see how things fit? That probably means I'll need to can the one former set that I glued to as well. Either that or I finish building and have to start all over with everything else on the fuse anyways.... Yea, I'm whining and complaining... sorry!

I all the night was a waste I guess... All progress in the last 2 hours need to be canned. Hmmm.... maybe I'll only need to recut and rebuild the two glued skins and the formers... I guess my whining let me see it might not be that bad of a correction!
 

bwarz

Master member
I've finally updated the plans with a few minor corrections and a few updated parts - namely formers 7 and 8. Former 8 on my second build proved to be quite tight and needed tapering to get skin E to fit. This former which was two identical parts has been modified to a larger (front) and smaller (rear). Also former 7 top was made smaller to improve assembly. I added tabs on the rear spar to help with alignment. I removed paper form the HSTAB to help reduce overall weight (should help a bit as that HSTAB is waaaayyyy behind the CG :LOL:)

Unfortunately I have not gotten back to the build (which needs partially disassembled as I didn't properly align skins D and E) so the plans are still considered beta, although I do have a high confidence things will go together well. (except former C might need a tweak in design to close up a gap I don't like) I'm not sure of time over the next few weeks so I decided to upload with the mods. To help also, I uploaded the original plans optimized for 11x17 printing as well as a single sheet full size and a 20x30 version as well. Additionally I uploaded my insignia sheets for German and Romanian if you wish to use...

Be sure to follow the build instructions included to ensure a clean assembly of the fuselage (start at the front, tape skins B and C in place, glue D and E, go back and glue B and C) - which I did NOT do, resulting in my need to disassemble :cry::mad:

If anyone gets around to building and has any questions please feel free to ask!
 

bwarz

Master member
I also haven't included the landing gear blocks and bend design yet...juts posting here so I don't forget:LOL::ROFLMAO: I have yet to even determine the wire bends, but will be sure to get that done hopefully upon my return from vacation....
 

bwarz

Master member
Hmmm - it has been 6 months since I did anything with this, and finally got back on to it for a bit tonight. Thinking of a Swiss paint scheme for this one...
BF109 Switzerland.png


I finally got the wing skinned on top after installing blocking for the landing gear, the 'tubes' to run the servo wires through, and I even added some stirrers so I'd have an easy path to install nav lights:cool:

I hope to have some time in the coming weeks to wrap it up - I've got a long line of stuff to build this winter and just don't have the time and energy to dedicate lately:cry: Here's hoping for some of both plus a good dose of motivation...
 

boogieloo

Active member
Congratulations. You really know how to make a model airplane. Weight of the airplane less than 1 kg or 2.2 ibs. Light. Are you going to paint it first, then fly this thing or test it after you work on it? And the batteries, what is it? LIPO 5s 2200 mAmp/hours. How did you decide on the batteries. By the size of the airplane? I didn't buy a Spektrum transmitter. But a 10 channel transmitter would look good with this. Once I get the hang of the batteries needed, that would be a synch to figure out the other stuffs. 2200 Kv to the motor. Just about right the type of power engine.
 
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bwarz

Master member
Congratulations. You really know how to make a model airplane. Weight of the airplane less than 1 kg or 2.2 ibs. Light. Are you going to paint it first, then fly this thing or test it after you work on it? And the batteries, what is it? LIPO 5s 2200 mAmp/hours. How did you decide on the batteries. By the size of the airplane? I didn't buy a Spektrum transmitter. But a 10 channel transmitter would look good with this. Once I get the hang of the batteries needed, that would be a synch to figure out the other stuffs. 2200 Kv to the motor. Just about right the type of power engine.

She weighs in after paint at 730g plus 180g for a 2200mAh 3S battery. It is on the lighter side, but not as light as the FT ones (I've actually added weight to my FT Corsair). It definitely gained some weight after paint. It flies like you'd expect the real thing to fly. Nice and smooth but no acrobatics :ROFLMAO: (although I hear with a 4S it is a bit better). The flaps work nicely and slows her down without any control issues. I ended up beefing up the motor a few months ago to a 2814 1050kV (originally 2216 1120kV) spinning a 10x7 prop which handles well without getting too warm (I still have not added the spinner :unsure:). She has a nice purr flying with the 1050kV motor. With flaps all I use are 5 channels (shared flaps, shared ailerons).

I based the battery around what I had and what fit in normal design. It is using something very close to the FT power pod in size to use the normal FT firewall. With the top hatch battery access if very easy and she could accommodate a 3600mAh 4S (37mmx40mmx125mm) with some CG adjusting of course (expecting it'd need additional weight in the back).
 

bwarz

Master member
LOL I was curious on the sizing again of the battery and what would fit - without any modifications, I'm able to fit my 5200mAh 3S RC car battery and balance it out nicely. It needs to be on end, but there is PLENTY of room in the battery compartment to fit it. It doesn't even end up into the nose much so more strategically placed velcro would be in order. Also the 2200 is 180g, the 5200 is 400g. The difference in weight overall would be going from an all-up weight of 910g to 1130g - curious how the flight time would work out. 2.35x the capacity in the battery and only a 24% increase in weight overall...:unsure:
 

SSgt Duramax

Junior Member
LOL I was curious on the sizing again of the battery and what would fit - without any modifications, I'm able to fit my 5200mAh 3S RC car battery and balance it out nicely. It needs to be on end, but there is PLENTY of room in the battery compartment to fit it. It doesn't even end up into the nose much so more strategically placed velcro would be in order. Also the 2200 is 180g, the 5200 is 400g. The difference in weight overall would be going from an all-up weight of 910g to 1130g - curious how the flight time would work out. 2.35x the capacity in the battery and only a 24% increase in weight overall...:unsure:

I had a 4400 in my explorer that I had bought for my rustler that didn't quite fit in it, and I feel like I flew it for about 20-30 minutes before I hit low voltage cut on a C-Pack. I thought about jamming one in my P-40 if that wouldn't make it too nose heavy. I also don't want to wreck my favorite plane.
 

Michael G

Active member
Parkzone has a great spinner for the 109 you designed it's not exactly perfect but it looks really nice. PK-4907 is the 3 blade version and there is a 2 blade but I don't know what part number it is..
I'd did build your 109 w/o any gear just to see how it all goes together and I really like the design.
The spinner was about 3/16" smaller than the cowl ring but still better than carving one out of a foam block......
 

bwarz

Master member
Parkzone has a great spinner for the 109 you designed it's not exactly perfect but it looks really nice. PK-4907 is the 3 blade version and there is a 2 blade but I don't know what part number it is..
I'd did build your 109 w/o any gear just to see how it all goes together and I really like the design.
The spinner was about 3/16" smaller than the cowl ring but still better than carving one out of a foam block......
Very cool thanks! I've been meaning to do one out of foam but that has yet to happen - I think it might just be quick to buy one! Glad to hear you enjoyed the build!
 

SSV_Rob

New member
So what’s going on guys!? Any one else build one of these bad boys?? I actually just printed my plans but scaled them up to 147% so the plane has just over 1700mm wingspan. I’m excited to build this! I know ima run into problems but I’ll figure it out. I’ll post pics when it’s all done for sure!
 

SSV_Rob

New member
Well I got all the pieces cut out and trying to put it together as best as I can given the pics posted on here.. also next to my e-flite 1.2m P-51 for a little size comparison
 

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bwarz

Master member
Well I got all the pieces cut out and trying to put it together as best as I can given the pics posted on here.. also next to my e-flite 1.2m P-51 for a little size comparison
Sorry for the lack of video - I had good intentions but then other things happen and that which we had good intention of doing just gets left behind :rolleyes:
Check the (very basic) build doc with a few notes and such here......link to doc...

If you have any questions feel free to ask! I'll be at FF22 this week but should be able to keep up with the thread in the evenings (going with 3 of my boys!)

She's looking good by the way!

On a side note, I did some odd things with the vertical stabilizer on my second MS design, the Curtiss P36. With a larger build, it might be worth the look. Let me know if you want more info...
 

bwarz

Master member
The original post with the vstab on the P36...
Holy crap I think it worked out quite well!
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I wouldn't want to find that part to cut out in any plans :ROFLMAO: (see the part a few posts back) but it works out quite well. It still mounts like the old vert as it is actually 3 layers thick at the base. The main section is paper outside, none inside, while the rudder is paper inside, none (and sanded to a taper) on the outside. I'll probably try ModPodge to seal the rudder before paint. And yea - no decals on the rudder... going to need painted by hand...
The last two pics are the standard rudder and the new on side-by-side
 

SSV_Rob

New member
Awesome man thanks I appreciate it! I was trying to look for some kind of guide but couldn’t find anything. FF22 sounds like fun! Hope you and your boys have a good time! I’ll update once I get other things done. Thanks again