Guy S.
Well-known member
4” is 101.6mm. Could be hard to squeeze that in there.
Aero L-39 Albatros V2 - EDF Jet
- Thread starter Grifflyer
- Start date
ScratchBuildMast
Elite member
I could scale it up to 200%
Guy S.
Well-known member
Do you have any experience with BDFs? I’m really curious about output power of similar sized EDF vs BDF.
ScratchBuildMast
Elite member
No, im going to print mine out when the quarantine is over cuz I dont have a 3d printer
CarolineTyler
Legendary member
You are going to love this plane, maiden of mine today!
https://forum.flitetest.com/index.p...39-next-scratchbuild.61847/page-7#post-556062
Guy S.
Well-known member
Before I post this, I know this a response to a question no one asked. But I’ve found the best way for me to launch this plane is using a switch to add up elevator, and a good underhand toss. I made a switch on my QX7 add 80% up ele, that turns off as soon as the right stick it moved. I flip a momentary switch, the elevator moves up, full throttle, and I throw it up at a 45 deg angle or so. It just slowly starts to climb away, and as soon as I touch the right stick it cancels the added up elevator and returns to normal. I needed someone else to launch it for me until I did this.
( my bad skills)
Painless360 has a video about how to set it up on YouTube
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
No that wouldn't fit, the 50mm EDF ring is already wider than the fuse
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
That might end up too heavy, look at the BDF Grunjet @chris398mx did, you might get better results doing something like that.
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
That sounds like a great idea!! I will suggest if you don't already do it, hold the plane in front of the wing, instead of behind, you can get a much more stable throw that way.
Guy S.
Well-known member
First time I threw mine myself, it looked a lot like CarolineTyler‘s video. I threw it like a football, and it flipped upside down as soon as I released it. She seemed to handle it better than I did though.
dehager
Well-known member
So far not much building, more reading and seeing how the assembly process goes but I will start gluing tonight. All of the electronics are ready, the motor leads have been extended and connectors installed.
I fly in at small grass field so I am planning for a lightweight build with a 3S EDF system. We shall see...
- FMS 50mm EDF - 3S
- Predator 2627-5400kV motor- 3S
- 3S 1550mAh - 2200mAh 45C lipo
- Turnigy Plush-32 40A ESC
- XT60 connectors / 3.5mm bullets
- Spektrum AR-410 RX / DX8 G2 TX
- Flite Test ES9051 5g servos
I fly in at small grass field so I am planning for a lightweight build with a 3S EDF system. We shall see...
- FMS 50mm EDF - 3S
- Predator 2627-5400kV motor- 3S
- 3S 1550mAh - 2200mAh 45C lipo
- Turnigy Plush-32 40A ESC
- XT60 connectors / 3.5mm bullets
- Spektrum AR-410 RX / DX8 G2 TX
- Flite Test ES9051 5g servos
Attachments
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
If you're building it as a 3s remove all the internal paper, if you don't you'll probably end up overweight.
CarolineTyler
Legendary member
Glad I got the maiden done sunday gone...UK now on total lockdown
dehager
Well-known member
Making progress with the build. I am using Titebond III Wood Glue for most of the joining to keep the weight down. I either tape or tack with hot glue as I go along as it gives me a lot of open time for the faceted parts and alignment. As Grifflyer recommended above, I have removed the internal paper to keep the weight to a minimum. The thrust tube is 0.005" Drafting Mylar (Grafix Dura-Lar), glued with medium CA and a thin strip of clear packing tape as a backup. The tube, intake ring and EDF are all glued with canopy glue (RC-56). Canopy glue provides a lightweight bond and stays flexible. I have used this method with good success for EDF units up to 90mm without any joint failures. Hope to complete the fuselage tomorrow.
Guy S.
Well-known member
I like the Mylar idea. I have lots of that at work, and I’m sure it’s a lot lighter Than the poster board I used.
leaded50
Legendary member
intake ring or not on the EDF? The ring is there to create a venturi in airflow (to compress/make a softer direct streamed airflow).
When the intakes are made to direct intake airflow on the edf, no ring is needed. Eg. if put posterboards at intake to direct airflow directly on the EDF, no ring either is needed.
(shown in graphic: )
When the intakes are made to direct intake airflow on the edf, no ring is needed. Eg. if put posterboards at intake to direct airflow directly on the EDF, no ring either is needed.
(shown in graphic: )
Attachments
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
Great work so far!
dehager
Well-known member
Slow day but making progress. One of the good things about using slower glues is that it forces you to slow down and enjoy the build. Those of us older builders who remember Ambroid and Duco will appreciate that. If you don't like the ugly brown glue lines you could use yellow (Titebond II or Traditional) or white glue (Elmers) but the Titebond III has very good open time.
My helper is telling me its time to quit for the day... Until tomorrow, everyone please stay safe!!!
My helper is telling me its time to quit for the day... Until tomorrow, everyone please stay safe!!!
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
Looking great!
Lol - I love the cat! It looks quite a bit like my grandparent's cat.
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