Airhawk's Shreiker 130
- Thread starter airhawk
- Start date
No problem where did you get the one piece by it self i need just one motor
Twitchity
Senior Member
I typically remove the signal wires from the ESCs completely and solder my own wire on that's the exact length I need, so yes if that's the wire you're talking about.
HOWEVER I noticed a lot of newer ESCs are being shipped with a signal and ground(?) wire to plug into the FC. If that's the case disregard my above statement until someone with more experience chimes in.
HOWEVER I noticed a lot of newer ESCs are being shipped with a signal and ground(?) wire to plug into the FC. If that's the case disregard my above statement until someone with more experience chimes in.
Twitchity
Senior Member
I'll see if I can take a stab at your question. I see from the front page you have the Multistar 5a, but all I can find are the 6a version so I'll use that as a reference. Should be the same between a 5a and 6a of the same model.
We'll use this as our reference image.
On one side (right side) we have three solder pads. These are for your motor wires. I believe you already soldered the motor wires to these from your picture. Wire placement doesn't matter at this point.
On the other side (left side) we have two solder pads (one with a red + and one with a black - on the sticker) and three wires. The three wires are your ESC signal wire (yellow), BEC power output (red), and BEC ground (brown). I believe this ESC has a 5v BEC to power the Naze flight controller, so take the red and brown wire from ONE of your ESC and connect them to the + and - pins on the Naze in any of the Motor 1-6 pins. You only need to provide power to the Naze from one ESC, so say you'll have the signal, power, and ground from the ESC on motor one connect to the singal, power, ground pins on the Naze at M1.
The remaining ESCs just need the signal (yellow) wire connected to the Naze to function.
Now you'll need to supply power to the ESCs, this is where the two solder pads on the left side come into play. You'll want to connect the positive wire of your harness to the pads with the red + on the sticker, and the negative wires of your harness to the pad with the black - on the sticker. A PDB will help out greatly with this. These power wires will have to be supplied by you as the ESCs don't come with any from the factory.
Hopefully this helped.
We'll use this as our reference image.
On one side (right side) we have three solder pads. These are for your motor wires. I believe you already soldered the motor wires to these from your picture. Wire placement doesn't matter at this point.
On the other side (left side) we have two solder pads (one with a red + and one with a black - on the sticker) and three wires. The three wires are your ESC signal wire (yellow), BEC power output (red), and BEC ground (brown). I believe this ESC has a 5v BEC to power the Naze flight controller, so take the red and brown wire from ONE of your ESC and connect them to the + and - pins on the Naze in any of the Motor 1-6 pins. You only need to provide power to the Naze from one ESC, so say you'll have the signal, power, and ground from the ESC on motor one connect to the singal, power, ground pins on the Naze at M1.
The remaining ESCs just need the signal (yellow) wire connected to the Naze to function.
Now you'll need to supply power to the ESCs, this is where the two solder pads on the left side come into play. You'll want to connect the positive wire of your harness to the pads with the red + on the sticker, and the negative wires of your harness to the pad with the black - on the sticker. A PDB will help out greatly with this. These power wires will have to be supplied by you as the ESCs don't come with any from the factory.
Hopefully this helped.
Twitchity
Senior Member
Yes, the harness are the wires you'll have to get soldered to the ESCs and PDB. You'll essentially need to do what I have done below with yours. In the picture you'll see the yellow XT60 connector with a black and red wire connected to it. The red wire is soldered to the + pad on the PDB and the black is soldered to the - pad on the PDB. Make sure you have the wires connected to the right right of your connector and to the board. If you reverse them you'll fry your components. XT60s are easy as the connector is marked which is positive and which in negative, but something like the little red JST connectors aren't marked. For connectors like those I plug in the side I'm wiring up to the battery to make sure I'm getting the right wire connected to the right place on the PDB. Once I know which wire goes where I'll make the wires with tape and a marker, then remove the connector from the battery before soldering. Be careful not to let any bare wires touch when connected to the battery, I cannot stress that part enough.
Ok, now your battery input wires are all taken care of and soldered to the PDB. If you connected your battery now you could use a voltmeter and check all of the + and - pads for voltage if you wanted. If this is your first time it may not be a bad idea before you go any further. This will let you know you do indeed have your battery wires soldered in the correct location.
So you're battery connector is soldered to the PDB and you're getting the correct reading using a voltmeter (you see a positive battery voltage when you have the red electrode on a + pad and the black electrode on a - pad). Now you need to run the wires from the PDB to your ESCs. Remember those little red + and black - signs on the ESC stickers from my last post? You'll want to connect the red + with the positive pads on the PDB, and the black - with the negative pads on the PDB board. Once this is done double, triple, quadruple check your wires! Start at the PDB, if the pad has a + the wire should run to the red + pad on your ESC. If the pad has a - then it should run to the black - pad on your ESC. Once you're feeling confident the wires are connected correctly, plug in your battery and see if the magical blue smoke gets released. If it doesn't you're good to go!
You can see below from one of my quad builds how the wires are setup from the PDB to the ESCs. They are sleeved in purple paracord so they don't exactly look like normal wires. This should keep you busy for a little while. I'll try to find a good example of the ESC signal (yellow, red, brown wires) wires to give to you while you work on the power wires.
Ok, now your battery input wires are all taken care of and soldered to the PDB. If you connected your battery now you could use a voltmeter and check all of the + and - pads for voltage if you wanted. If this is your first time it may not be a bad idea before you go any further. This will let you know you do indeed have your battery wires soldered in the correct location.
So you're battery connector is soldered to the PDB and you're getting the correct reading using a voltmeter (you see a positive battery voltage when you have the red electrode on a + pad and the black electrode on a - pad). Now you need to run the wires from the PDB to your ESCs. Remember those little red + and black - signs on the ESC stickers from my last post? You'll want to connect the red + with the positive pads on the PDB, and the black - with the negative pads on the PDB board. Once this is done double, triple, quadruple check your wires! Start at the PDB, if the pad has a + the wire should run to the red + pad on your ESC. If the pad has a - then it should run to the black - pad on your ESC. Once you're feeling confident the wires are connected correctly, plug in your battery and see if the magical blue smoke gets released. If it doesn't you're good to go!
You can see below from one of my quad builds how the wires are setup from the PDB to the ESCs. They are sleeved in purple paracord so they don't exactly look like normal wires. This should keep you busy for a little while. I'll try to find a good example of the ESC signal (yellow, red, brown wires) wires to give to you while you work on the power wires.
Twitchity
Senior Member
So this part is up to you. I've done this in the past, but don't do so if you're not feeling comfortable.
You only need one ESC to supply power to your Naze32, so you could remove the power and ground (red and brown) wires from the pair of three wires (yellow, red, brown) on your ESCs. This will save you weight but will be more difficult. You can leave all wires on just like they are and be just fine. If you do this you will have to remove the middle wire from 3 of the 4 connectors so only one supplies the 5v power to the Naze32.
Here's a very good post on connecting the ESC wires to your Naze32 http://forum.hobbyrc.co.uk/default.aspx?g=posts&m=7#post7. In this method they removed the power wire from 3 of the 4 ESCs (red wire) before connecting to the the Naze32. I go one step further and completely unsolder all BUT the signal (yellow wire in your case) from the ESCs.
I would probably recommend the method in the link above for you at this moment. You can always go back later and remove wires if desired. This is what I do for my builds though. The ESCs I run don't have a BEC, but the process is essentially the same, I just get my power supplied by a voltage regulator.
If I was building your quad, and I wanted to use my method, I would remove the power and ground wires from ESCs 1, 2, and 3 while leaving ESC 4 (front left) with all three wires. The header pins on my FC would be soldered like this:
The Naze doesn't care which slots it receives it's power and ground from, just as long as power is only applied to one pin. The way the Naze is setup, the pins closest to the center (and are also square) are for your signal wires. The middle row of pins is for your power, and the outer most row is for your ground. As you can see, each column is numbered 1-6, each one with a signal, power, and ground pin.
I solder a signal wire only to pins 1, 2, 3, and 4. My power gets connected at column 5 middle pin, and ground at column 6 outer pin. Since your ESCs have three wires going to each connector, and we removed two of those wires from each connector, we are left with two empty spots for wires to get inserted. What I do is remove the signal wires from the black plastic connector on ESCs 2 and 3, I then place them in the correct order on ESC 1. This way I only have one connector to worry about for those three motors. Check, double check, etc, that you have the wires connected in the right order. M1 is right read and connects to the #1 pin on the Naze, M2 is front right and connects to #2 on the Naze, M3 is left rear and connects to #3 on the Naze.
Now that those three wires are connected you just need to plug in your ESC for motor 4 to supply the ESC signal, 5v power, and ground to the Naze. The yellow (signal) wire will connect to the signal pin on #4 on the Naze, the red (power) wire will connect to the power (middle) pin on #5 on the Naze, and the brown (ground) wire will connect to the ground (outer) pin on #6 on the Naze. That should be it for your ESC wiring.
You only need one ESC to supply power to your Naze32, so you could remove the power and ground (red and brown) wires from the pair of three wires (yellow, red, brown) on your ESCs. This will save you weight but will be more difficult. You can leave all wires on just like they are and be just fine. If you do this you will have to remove the middle wire from 3 of the 4 connectors so only one supplies the 5v power to the Naze32.
Here's a very good post on connecting the ESC wires to your Naze32 http://forum.hobbyrc.co.uk/default.aspx?g=posts&m=7#post7. In this method they removed the power wire from 3 of the 4 ESCs (red wire) before connecting to the the Naze32. I go one step further and completely unsolder all BUT the signal (yellow wire in your case) from the ESCs.
I would probably recommend the method in the link above for you at this moment. You can always go back later and remove wires if desired. This is what I do for my builds though. The ESCs I run don't have a BEC, but the process is essentially the same, I just get my power supplied by a voltage regulator.
If I was building your quad, and I wanted to use my method, I would remove the power and ground wires from ESCs 1, 2, and 3 while leaving ESC 4 (front left) with all three wires. The header pins on my FC would be soldered like this:
The Naze doesn't care which slots it receives it's power and ground from, just as long as power is only applied to one pin. The way the Naze is setup, the pins closest to the center (and are also square) are for your signal wires. The middle row of pins is for your power, and the outer most row is for your ground. As you can see, each column is numbered 1-6, each one with a signal, power, and ground pin.
I solder a signal wire only to pins 1, 2, 3, and 4. My power gets connected at column 5 middle pin, and ground at column 6 outer pin. Since your ESCs have three wires going to each connector, and we removed two of those wires from each connector, we are left with two empty spots for wires to get inserted. What I do is remove the signal wires from the black plastic connector on ESCs 2 and 3, I then place them in the correct order on ESC 1. This way I only have one connector to worry about for those three motors. Check, double check, etc, that you have the wires connected in the right order. M1 is right read and connects to the #1 pin on the Naze, M2 is front right and connects to #2 on the Naze, M3 is left rear and connects to #3 on the Naze.
Now that those three wires are connected you just need to plug in your ESC for motor 4 to supply the ESC signal, 5v power, and ground to the Naze. The yellow (signal) wire will connect to the signal pin on #4 on the Naze, the red (power) wire will connect to the power (middle) pin on #5 on the Naze, and the brown (ground) wire will connect to the ground (outer) pin on #6 on the Naze. That should be it for your ESC wiring.
I love that build, Twitch. It's just so, purple. 
Twitchity
Senior Member
That build is no more. Everything was ripped off and transferred to a new frame. I was rushing to get it built so I could fly last weekend, but then my transmitter died so that was a no go. I'll be rebuilding it when I get my Matek PDB and make it all pretty again. No more acro quad for me at the moment, I'm mostly focused on getting better at FPV racing. This thing is a pig in the weight category though, so I may end up getting mpbiv's quad he just designed and use that as my race quad. I think his design is very clean and well thought out so it's definitely on my list of builds in the near future.
Now if USPS will deliver the packages that were supposed to be here on Wednesday, that'd be great. They are still holding my Taranis hostage in CA based on what the tracking says.
Now if USPS will deliver the packages that were supposed to be here on Wednesday, that'd be great. They are still holding my Taranis hostage in CA based on what the tracking says.
What frame is that one with the orange skirts, Twitch?
man you do such clean builds. i just finshed up my 180. i need to add props maiden..
then decide if i can put fpv gear on it.. wish iw oudl of bought a cam with a VTX/Cam all in one.. then it would fit..
maybe just keep this 180 as a los thing. but we will see, im waiting for couple of battery packs to charge..
i figure running 3 batteries testing hovering etc.. if it passes that then its ready for fpv gear..
i think i will stick to 200+ and larger builds from now on. 130 - 180mm i just do not have the skills yet to make them as clean as you. but with each build im getting closer heh.
also using a external BEC adds to the rats nest. laughs.. i think i need to stick to 12v, 5v BEC on the PDB one less set of wires heh.
chris.
then decide if i can put fpv gear on it.. wish iw oudl of bought a cam with a VTX/Cam all in one.. then it would fit..
maybe just keep this 180 as a los thing. but we will see, im waiting for couple of battery packs to charge..
i figure running 3 batteries testing hovering etc.. if it passes that then its ready for fpv gear..
i think i will stick to 200+ and larger builds from now on. 130 - 180mm i just do not have the skills yet to make them as clean as you. but with each build im getting closer
heh.also using a external BEC adds to the rats nest. laughs.. i think i need to stick to 12v, 5v BEC on the PDB one less set of wires heh.
chris.
