Any 3d or just not this 3d ?

[Turbojoe]

Good stuff,
Now also check your extrusion rate, with a 1cm cube ( no top surface) that is suppose to have 1mm wall

I haven't checked extrusion with a cube but when measuring 100mm filament movement I'm spot on even after the changes made to the axes. The axes weren't terribly far off. I just wanted to get them as close to perfect as possible. My 2mm holes measure out at 1.92mm. Not huge but not perfect. I still have a LOT to learn.

Joe

 

[Wildthing]

I haven't checked extrusion with a cube but when measuring 100mm filament movement I'm spot on even after the changes made to the axes. The axes weren't terribly far off. I just wanted to get them as close to perfect as possible. My 2mm holes measure out at 1.92mm. Not huge but not perfect. I still have a LOT to learn.

Joe

With the 1cm cube you are measuring the cube itself plus the wall thickness. Sad part is you tune it up with one roll of filament and the next role it is printing like crap and you do it all over. 😆

 

[Turbojoe]

There are SO MANY calibration cube files out there. Many suck. Can you link one that you trust? This kind of info is going to be incredibly helpful for the guys that are just jumping in to 3D printing.

Joe

 

[sundown57]

There are SO MANY calibration cube files out there. Many suck. Can you link one that you trust? This kind of info is going to be incredibly helpful for the guys that are just jumping in to 3D printing.

Joe

+1

 

[sundown57]

Also, there are tons of different brands of PLA ranging from like $5.00 - $30.00. is one really any better than another? if so brand suggestion?

 

[Grifflyer]

Also, there are tons of different brands of PLA ranging from like $5.00 - $30.00. is one really any better than another? if so brand suggestion?

I've had good results with Hatchbox and AmazonBasics.

 

[chris398mx]

Also, there are tons of different brands of PLA ranging from like $5.00 - $30.00. is one really any better than another? if so brand suggestion?

I am new to the printing game, but have been using Hatchbox PLA from Amazon. I am on my 4th spool and it has been working well.

 

[Turbojoe]

Also, there are tons of different brands of PLA ranging from like $5.00 - $30.00. is one really any better than another? if so brand suggestion?

A very good question. I've been using the Dikale PLA from Amazon with no issues. Doesn't mean it's the best. It just works for me and is reasonably priced.

Joe

 

[Wildthing]

I've had good results with Hatchbox and AmazonBasics.

My last few rolls have been from Amazon, brand is 3D Solutech. I tried some from HK and it was so dry you really had to be careful bending it as it would snap really easy.

 

[Wildthing]

There are SO MANY calibration cube files out there. Many suck. Can you link one that you trust? This kind of info is going to be incredibly helpful for the guys that are just jumping in to 3D printing.

Joe

This is the cube I use plus a cylinder. A cube is a cube, once printed and printed properly outside dimension should be 1cm on all sides and wall thickness 1mm , print with no top layers and no infill. Cylinder you should just have a nice clean round cylinder with no gaps or holes in it.

 

[kilroy07]

Print a benchy!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622

I've taken a liking to the sunlu stuff on amazon, I have some clear 3D Solutech that is just so cool printed out (Wonder Woman plane anyone!) My first shipment of the LWPLA just arrived. probably get to it this weekend! Hatchbox was a mixed bag for me, one spool was great, the white I had a lot of trouble with... everyone has a favorite, buy a couple of spools and experiment.

Oh, and you might want to relax a bit, a micrometer might be little overkill for hobby grade printers.

 

[Turbojoe]

This is the cube I use plus a cylinder. A cube is a cube, once printed and printed properly outside dimension should be 1cm on all sides and wall thickness 1mm , print with no top layers and no infill. Cylinder you should just have a nice clean round cylinder with no gaps or holes in it.

Thanks for posting the .stl files! getting late do I'll probably print them tomorrow.

Joe

 

[buzzbomb]

Print a benchy!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622

Darn. I want a 3d printer just so I can make one of those! Too cute!

 

[Grifflyer]

Darn. I want a 3d printer just so I can make one of those! Too cute!

Yeah they're awesome, whenever I get new filament a kid gets a little boat.

 

[Turbojoe]

Darn. I want a 3d printer just so I can make one of those! Too cute!

I've seen the Benchy a lot but always thought it was just a weird looking waste of time. I never knew it was used for calibration.....

Joe

 

[sprzout]

Print area looks small and with just a single post I wonder how sturdy it would be with the extruder extended to the outer limits when printing, vibration could be a factor

I actually have the V1 of this - it's rock solid. The print bed IS small, but it has a headed bed, metal hot end, and it worked pretty much right out of the box. There was a slight bit of bed leveling I had to do (but honestly, VERY minor), and it has worked almost reliably since. I have had some issues with filament breaking in it, but that's not the printer's fault, that's the filament I've been using (and that's because I tried to buy the absolute CHEAPEST stuff I could find - sometimes, paying a few bucks more is worth it).

 

[Turbojoe]

I decided I would finally go ahead and print a Benchy. After slicing the .stl file in Cura it said 2 hours 20 minutes for the print. Wowzers! It's already 1 hour into the print and looks like less than 50% printed. Looks like the Cura estimate is fairly accurate on this one. I hope it turns out really good as I won't be printing this file after every change made. I'll use the smaller faster printing cubes instead.

Joe

 

[Turbojoe]

Calibration woes......

I had created my own 2cm (20mm) cube in TinkerCad for calibration and got m codes pretty much dead on for all 3 axis. Also hole diameter is now round but still slightly undersized and that's what I can't figure out. I've printed out three 1cm calibration cubes from different sources in rapid succession. They ALL measured differently! The Benchy print quality turned out awesome but some measurements are off very slightly. Argh! after all that time and filament waste I reprinted my own TinkerCad designed 2cm cube and it still measures the same as it did yesterday. This leads me to believe there are inconsistencies in the various programs used to produce the downloadable designs. The m code axis adjustments I made work great for the parts I've created in TinkerCad. I'm staying with them for now. I'll just have to deal with the slightly undersized holes.

Joe

 

[chris398mx]

Calibration woes......

I had created my own 2cm (20mm) cube in TinkerCad for calibration and got m codes pretty much dead on for all 3 axis. Also hole diameter is now round but still slightly undersized and that's what I can't figure out. I've printed out three 1cm calibration cubes from different sources in rapid succession. They ALL measured differently! The Benchy print quality turned out awesome but some measurements are off very slightly. Argh! after all that time and filament waste I reprinted my own TinkerCad designed 2cm cube and it still measures the same as it did yesterday. This leads me to believe there are inconsistencies in the various programs used to produce the downloadable designs. The m code axis adjustments I made work great for the parts I've created in TinkerCad. I'm staying with them for now. I'll just have to deal with the slightly undersized holes.

Joe

Threre is a setting in Cura to compensate for hole sizes. I cant remember what it is exactly. i will do some looking and see if i can find it.

 

[Turbojoe]

Threre is a setting in Cura to compensate for hole sizes. I cant remember what it is exactly. i will do some looking and see if i can find it.

Don't toy with me. Getting the holes sizes right would put me in heaven! That sounds kinda creepy don't it.

Joe