RossFPV
Well-known member
I guess i like the rudder more because i started on a 3ch (with rudder) hobbyzone duet
Anybody else scratch building tonight?
- Thread starter K3V0
- Start date
NM156
Member
I'm in central Ohio
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Started my next project last night, the F-86D SabreDog. Should be an interesting build. Starting with the wings first as I will need the wing root profile to establish the proper cutout on the fuse. It will be prop driven as this plane allows for that with its nose. Weather is no go for flying this weekend , so I have some extra time to put on this.
RossFPV
Well-known member
How big will the wingspan be? On the table it looks like it might be around 40-50 inches
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
48 inches.
The Fopster
Master member
Final push to be airborne in time for the Dawn Patrol - albeit I’ll be on a different continent. Undercarriage done this afternoon. So close now…
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Really really nice! Love the cowl and gun, they look awesome. Are you putting cabane struts out on the wing too? Did this plane have them? I can see mount points or something on the wing there.
The Fopster
Master member
Yes, there will be struts. The plan is to use BBQ skewers, with maybe foamboard or wood to make the wider and a bit more scale. The fittings are attachment points for the flying wires. No idea how I’m going to do those!
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Wing is just about there, need to add some tips and finish off the trailing edge before I cut the ailerons. All in all it wasn't too bad for my first swept wing. The fuse is going to be a little tricky as I don't have a top view to reference. Generally what happens is I will study the plans for about an hour and I will come up with a some sort of idea for a sub frame to build the formers off of , then I'll cut and adjust all the parts I need and then the fun begins 
. I am thinking that skinning this should not be much of an issue with maybe 5 or six pieces to do it. Gonna cut some xps blocks for the wing tips and shape those and then call it a night I think.
. I am thinking that skinning this should not be much of an issue with maybe 5 or six pieces to do it. Gonna cut some xps blocks for the wing tips and shape those and then call it a night I think.
Mr NCT
Site Moderator
You are prodigiousWing is just about there, need to add some tips and finish off the trailing edge before I cut the ailerons. All in all it wasn't too bad for my first swept wing. The fuse is going to be a little tricky as I don't have a top view to reference. Generally what happens is I will study the plans for about an hour and I will come up with a some sort of idea for a sub frame to build the formers off of , then I'll cut and adjust all the parts I need and then the fun begins
View attachment 227276 View attachment 227277 View attachment 227278 View attachment 227279 View attachment 227280
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Thanks my friend, its all just persistence and a whole lot of OCD LOL! I love working from old balsa plans though, always finding something to try or new ways to do things. .
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Good start on the fuse tonight, Nose and one more section at the back to figure out. Wingtips are pretty much done just need a final sanding there. So far so good.
RossFPV
Well-known member
Looks like a master series!
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Here is where I am at with the SabreDog, spent last night finishing the rear of the fuse and its formers, as well as fine tuning all the formers just to make make sure everything lined up good for the skins. Also worked out the front cowl situation, it looks like its pointing kinda down in the pic because its just loosely held in place with a couple of pins, it is going to be removable. Tonight will be getting the wing mounts in place so that I can mount the wing and get the bottom formered out. And I will be getting the motor mount in position now that the cowl is done and I know where the motor needs to be. The only other challenge I am foreseeing is the horizontal stabilizer setup, from what I can see on the balsa plans it looks like the entire h-stab moves instead of an h-stab with elevators. If anybody has a bit of insight on this I would greatly appreciate the input. I need to study some pictures as well just to wrap my brain around the whole back end of this plane. Oh, and I have a new spinner printing, that one is from my P-40 ,its not quite the right shape and its just a touch too big. Tailfeathers are cut but it will be a night or two before I am ready for them. I love this plane, was one of my top bucket list builds, glad I started it.
cyclone3350
Master member
Too cool. I bought a Nitro Planes 86D a few years ago that I thought about converting to an EDF. When I get settled down in the new place, I'm gonna have to make that one on my list. I down loaded the same plans to use to remake the cowl intake. Luv what U did with it
Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
Thanks my friend. I have a question for you. I am experimenting with film, trying to shave weight from builds and give it that vinyl finished look. I am going to call my first attempt a success/failure. I have no idea what brand the film is, it was a freebie from Banggood and was for the Dancing Wings Savage Bobber. I used a regular iron, the tip of it for the most part and probably not the right tool for the job LOL, so there are two problems which contribute to the failure aspect of everything. Here is a pic to show what I mean. Maybe you can't use film on foambaord? Although I have seen it done . Any insight, tips you could share? I seem to be melting the foamboard.Too cool. I bought a Nitro Planes 86D a few years ago that I thought about converting to an EDF. When I get settled down in the new place, I'm gonna have to make that one on my list. I down loaded the same plans to use to remake the cowl intake. Luv what U did with it
L Edge
Master member
To experiment with film on foamboard, you need 2 devices. You need a variable temp iron (see TowerHobby) and a temp gun that can measure the temp within a few degrees to make it work.
Beside finding out what temp the foamboard starts to melt and the temp range of the film, then you will have to experiment with the range of temps for
1) tacking the film onto the foam (monokote does it at 215-240)
2) having a good shrink (230-275)
3) max temp for max shrink (270-350)
Tip: I always take reading of iron before using on shrink. Use cotton shirt to cool it down if too hot, for once it is too high, shrink film goes goes brittle.
Beside finding out what temp the foamboard starts to melt and the temp range of the film, then you will have to experiment with the range of temps for
1) tacking the film onto the foam (monokote does it at 215-240)
2) having a good shrink (230-275)
3) max temp for max shrink (270-350)
Tip: I always take reading of iron before using on shrink. Use cotton shirt to cool it down if too hot, for once it is too high, shrink film goes goes brittle.
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