Anybody else scratch building tonight?

danskis

Master member
Like I said OpenTX is a very, very deep rabbit hole. It replaces the user interface on the transmitter with a different one that is a lot more flexible and a lot more complicated. I wouldn't suggest doing that until you can't seem to do what you want to do with the original Flysky system. If you want to find out more go to Open TX university. Yes you have to go to school to be able to use it. If you're into programming languages then it should be fairly easy.
 

paradawks

Member
Here's my winter project that I'm just finishing up. Still a few details to add, but those might wait until after it gets a maiden flight and I see if it survives...
C78F391C-9D63-4BE8-B04D-07CB05FCE087_1_105_c.jpeg
 

paradawks

Member
nice! how big is that? a little hard to tell the scale. that is the full scale one, right? it looks like a scaled down ms p38

It's the full size Flite Test P-38. Built from their plans pretty much as-is though I added some bits of landing gear I already had. How successful that part was is untested as of yet but it will taxi a few feet on my dining room floor.
 

mastermalpass

Elite member
Soldered up the power system for the Kaddy then did a quick test and something odd happened. I throttled up the prop-less motor, after working well at low throttles, I pushed it up higher - just a quick wave up and down - when at around 50%, the motor went out of phase. I unplugged the battery, reset Tx and replugged the battery... Motor didn't beep, but still responded to throttle, though still out of phase (guess it needs the right phase in order to do it's start up and cell count beeps) "Oh poo", I thought, "are my 40A ESCs all cheap and breaky?".

Switched 40a ESC to another motor, that worked fine... Put another ESC (30a) on original motor... that also worked fine? ... Paired original motor and 40a ESC... They work again now!

What happened there? I didn't throttle up above 50% this time, in case it's bad to do that with an unladen motor, but I don't know what else could cause it. Unless anyone can spot anything off with my rather lazy test bench:
20230225_142857.jpg


The screws on the motor aren't long enough to reach the coils and cause a short out. Could a loose grain of solder somehow fall into the coils? Could electric arc between the thin bits of exposed gold on the motor-ESC plugs when given enough throttle? I'd like to know the cause before I take off!
 

luvmy40

Elite member
Soldered up the power system for the Kaddy then did a quick test and something odd happened. I throttled up the prop-less motor, after working well at low throttles, I pushed it up higher - just a quick wave up and down - when at around 50%, the motor went out of phase. I unplugged the battery, reset Tx and replugged the battery... Motor didn't beep, but still responded to throttle, though still out of phase (guess it needs the right phase in order to do it's start up and cell count beeps) "Oh poo", I thought, "are my 40A ESCs all cheap and breaky?".

Switched 40a ESC to another motor, that worked fine... Put another ESC (30a) on original motor... that also worked fine? ... Paired original motor and 40a ESC... They work again now!

What happened there? I didn't throttle up above 50% this time, in case it's bad to do that with an unladen motor, but I don't know what else could cause it. Unless anyone can spot anything off with my rather lazy test bench:
View attachment 235604

The screws on the motor aren't long enough to reach the coils and cause a short out. Could a loose grain of solder somehow fall into the coils? Could electric arc between the thin bits of exposed gold on the motor-ESC plugs when given enough throttle? I'd like to know the cause before I take off!
IIRC, there are 2-3 levels of "timing" on most ESCs. Maybe a different setting is needed for that motor/esc combo?
 

RossFPV

Well-known member
Soldered up the power system for the Kaddy then did a quick test and something odd happened. I throttled up the prop-less motor, after working well at low throttles, I pushed it up higher - just a quick wave up and down - when at around 50%, the motor went out of phase. I unplugged the battery, reset Tx and replugged the battery... Motor didn't beep, but still responded to throttle, though still out of phase (guess it needs the right phase in order to do it's start up and cell count beeps) "Oh poo", I thought, "are my 40A ESCs all cheap and breaky?".

Switched 40a ESC to another motor, that worked fine... Put another ESC (30a) on original motor... that also worked fine? ... Paired original motor and 40a ESC... They work again now!

What happened there? I didn't throttle up above 50% this time, in case it's bad to do that with an unladen motor, but I don't know what else could cause it. Unless anyone can spot anything off with my rather lazy test bench:
View attachment 235604

The screws on the motor aren't long enough to reach the coils and cause a short out. Could a loose grain of solder somehow fall into the coils? Could electric arc between the thin bits of exposed gold on the motor-ESC plugs when given enough throttle? I'd like to know the cause before I take off!
Try calibrating it, Tx on full throttle(no prop) and then plug in the battery. Then lower throttle until beeping stops. I dont know exactly how to do it but i think thats pretty close. My FT 40amp esc had the same problem and that fixed it
 

CrshNBrn

Elite member
Not actually building tonight, but I cut the parts for the AP Easy Trainer and Mini Old Fogey today.

Sounds like "building" to me! Nothing like a new blade every now and then on cutting nights to make you appreciate living the high life. Have fun with the process.
 

checkerboardflyer

Well-known member
Needed to create a checkerboard trim for an R/C hovercraft that I am building from Dollar Tree foam board. (DTFB) I drew the design in an app that I use called Comic Life. Comes in both Mac and Windows versions. It has a feature called Snap To Grid that is incredibly useful for making a bunch of shapes the same size and arranging them in a straight line. Perfect for a checkerboard. I made black and white squares, but you can use circles, triangles, pictures. And you can use colors also.

I applied the pattern to the hovercraft part with rubber cement. According to the instructions on the bottle for a permanent bond, apply the glue to both surfaces, then press together immediately. You are bound to get some rubber cement where it doesn’t belong. That’s where a rubber cement pickup comes in handy. Works great. For more tips and resources for foam build R/C modelers, visit my blog: https://foamboardflyers.com

0-custom checkerboard 1024-2 - 1.jpeg 1-custom checkerboard 2-3-4 1024 - 2.jpeg 2-custom checkerboard 2-3-4 1024 - 1.jpeg 3-custom checkerboard 2-3-4 1024 - 3.jpeg custom checkerboard group - 1.jpeg
 

luvmy40

Elite member
Sounds like "building" to me! Nothing like a new blade every now and then on cutting nights to make you appreciate living the high life. Have fun with the process.
I cheat. I cut my parts on an ERC TimSav CNC Needle Cutter. Editing the plans for the GCode is the time consuming part. I figure I'm saving about 200 scalpel blades a year.
 

Foamforce

Well-known member
I’m building my first lit plane and my first wing (it’s a Spear). I bought green, red, and white for navigation lights, but I got blue instead of green. That’s fine, I went full patriotic for USA, Norway, France… about 25 others. 😂 The tape didn’t stick very well to the FT foam board, so I tacked it down with hot glue every couple inches. The red and blue are on the outside of the spar, so they light up the top and bottom the same, but the white faces downward from the middle of the spar, so it only lights up the bottom, so that I can differentiate top from bottom. Plus, it will be the prettier side and I figured that should be down since that’s what people on the ground will see most of the time. The hardest part was soldering the 3 way power distribution harness. Getting four wires together for soldering is a chore.
 

Attachments

  • 86EEAEC4-05D3-423D-A522-72573D7E6025.jpeg
    86EEAEC4-05D3-423D-A522-72573D7E6025.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 0
  • 28F1D8A3-28C3-439B-B2C4-4E9EB3393445.jpeg
    28F1D8A3-28C3-439B-B2C4-4E9EB3393445.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 0
  • AA543554-5878-4706-A158-2DFB6A804773.jpeg
    AA543554-5878-4706-A158-2DFB6A804773.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 0

mastermalpass

Elite member
Spent most of today working on my Buildurary Sig Kadet.
Screenshot_20230226_195514_Gallery.jpg


Of all my builds for this challenge, this is the one I'm most excited to fly. Probably because it'll be the biggest plane I've ever flown, but having Tail Heavy Productions auto-playing on YouTube for a chunk of the day probably helped.

The original design sported elevator and rudder with dihedral. This one's getting a flat wing and flapperons, a 9" prop and a 40A - 4S set up.
 

tomlogan1

Elite member
Like I said OpenTX is a very, very deep rabbit hole. It replaces the user interface on the transmitter with a different one that is a lot more flexible and a lot more complicated. I wouldn't suggest doing that until you can't seem to do what you want to do with the original Flysky system. If you want to find out more go to Open TX university. Yes you have to go to school to be able to use it. If you're into programming languages then it should be fairly easy.
I moved from FlySky to TX16S and love it. With the FlySky receivers, it is very solid. With the original FlySky radio the limitation on mixes was an issue. On TX16S mixes are pretty much unlimited. I presume the same for any OpenTX radio but Radiomaster TX16S is the only one I've used. Just a great system.