Anyone used silicone spray on DTFB?

Has anyone run tests with this? I think it's Kiwi who offers CampDry, but there are loads of brands who offer the same thing.
Haha it came to me in the shower. Now it seems like a no-brainer, I can't see why it wouldn't work, and I bet it's less than 1/2 the weight of using an oil based wood floor treatment.
I can only see two issues. 1, it might not work great as a waterproofing layer! But I'm pretty sure the coating on FTBD is silicone. 2, There's the issue of aerosol propellants eating the foam, but just like using spray paint there are ways around that issue.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
Has anyone run tests with this? I think it's Kiwi who offers CampDry, but there are loads of brands who offer the same thing.
Haha it came to me in the shower. Now it seems like a no-brainer, I can't see why it wouldn't work, and I bet it's less than 1/2 the weight of using an oil based wood floor treatment.
I can only see two issues. 1, it might not work great as a waterproofing layer! But I'm pretty sure the coating on FTBD is silicone. 2, There's the issue of aerosol propellants eating the foam, but just like using spray paint there are ways around that issue.
I would say go for it. Try it out on a scrap piece of FB. Test a section before paint or decals, one after paint or decals, different FB brands from Adams to Elmers to FT stuff. Do water tests on it as well. The only way to find out is to get to doin it. Let us know how it turns out
 
I would say go for it. Try it out on a scrap piece of FB. Test a section before paint or decals, one after paint or decals, different FB brands from Adams to Elmers to FT stuff. Do water tests on it as well. The only way to find out is to get to doin it. Let us know how it turns out
Geez if somebody else already tried it then I wouldn't have to! But yeah I'll have to try it.
Dollar Tree is two blocks from me so that's the test subject.
Thing is, DTFB is significantly thinner than brown FTFB so it's got to be measurably lighter, and for my builds I don't need a thicker, stronger FB. If it works then it's a lot cheaper and a lot more convenient. My only issue is I like the "honest" color of the brown FB. I like being able to use just touches of paint here & there for added speed. ;). But white is another story. Maybe I could get used to it...
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
I haven't used the FTFB yet, all i do is the dollar tree stuff. I do tend to lay on the paint to them as well, sometimes with up to 6-8 coats between colors and clear coat. I do hear ya, it does add weight, but it is usually evenly distributed. I have used ElmersFB as well but for me I like a little more weight in some of my planes, I am still figuring that one out through trial and error. I would like to give the FTFB a shot someday but i am good where I am at with this so far. But if you say you don't like white, i do have some inspiration to offer. If you like to do just accents for orientation or aesthetics you gotta check this out, and adds next to no weight whatsoever (anything measurable anyway)
20200524_141139.jpg

This is my FW190, that's all sharpie. It is kinda an extreme situation, but you get the idea. I am thinking if the camp dry works you could spray over top of the sharpie accents. I have done the sharpie thing after the treatment of polyurethane and the sharpie will fade in time, but under it lasts longer and the camp dry will seal in the color... possibly
 
I haven't used the FTFB yet, all i do is the dollar tree stuff. I do tend to lay on the paint to them as well, sometimes with up to 6-8 coats between colors and clear coat. I do hear ya, it does add weight, but it is usually evenly distributed. I have used ElmersFB as well but for me I like a little more weight in some of my planes, I am still figuring that one out through trial and error. I would like to give the FTFB a shot someday but i am good where I am at with this so far. But if you say you don't like white, i do have some inspiration to offer. If you like to do just accents for orientation or aesthetics you gotta check this out, and adds next to no weight whatsoever (anything measurable anyway)
View attachment 170684
This is my FW190, that's all sharpie. It is kinda an extreme situation, but you get the idea. I am thinking if the camp dry works you could spray over top of the sharpie accents. I have done the sharpie thing after the treatment of polyurethane and the sharpie will fade in time, but under it lasts longer and the camp dry will seal in the color... possibly

Dude.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
That's just it, its so simple. Like a 3D coloring book. Yet the best is you get to make your own lines. I just google up some images I like of the plane, this case the 190, and go from there. I like the imperfections in it when its free handed, makes the plane look experienced. This is a Mini, 24" wingspan, really only took a couple hours to knock that off, even less on the Jug
20200524_205958.jpg
20200524_205822.jpg

Now this one is treated, painted and then black sharpie on top, no clear coat. But still i think the camp dry might work if it doesn't hurt the FB on application. Might have to spray it like a paint, 2-3 light coats at 12" or more away. If it doesn't ruin paint, ink, or decals on FB, then you have a winner. If your results turn out i would use it, and I would endorse it on my "Quick Tips" thread. I will try it out if it works out for you and make a vid on it, all credit to you of coarse, to help get the idea out to others
 
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That's just it, its so simple. Like a 3D coloring book. Yet the best is you get to make your own lines. I just google up some images I like of the plane, this case the 190, and go from there. I like the imperfections in it when its free handed, makes the plane look experienced. This is a Mini, 24" wingspan, really only took a couple hours to knock that off, even less on the Jug View attachment 170686 View attachment 170687
Now this one is treated, painted and then black sharpie on top, no clear coat. But still i think the camp dry might work if it doesn't hurt the FB on application. Might have to spray it like a paint, 2-3 light coats at 12" or more away. If it doesn't ruin paint, ink, or decals on FB, then you have a winner
But you're taping & spraying right? For the black and red accents on my A-26 it felt like it took as long to tape & spray as it took to build the thing!
I sure might be painting these up at some point. For now I'm afraid to make my planes too precious. They already are, with the precision I demand of my work. The FB planes are a new challenge for me, and a design & 3D build challenge. I've done meticulous tape & spray jobs on other things before, so I'm not seeking an achievement here for myself, if that makes sense. But there's no question you're creating some beautiful work, and I'd never manage to let myself freehand anything!

The silicone should work, but for now I've got the rest of a 25 piece box of brown stuff to work with.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
Sometimes the painting does get a little involved. I have done paint jobs that take a lot of effort and ones that don't. I can see the how you wouldn't want to fly a dolled up plane only knowing you may wreck it within 10 flights or so. I just love to build, create, and fly man so its an ongoing process here. I enjoy it so I don't mind putting the time in even if it doesn't survive the maiden. If its really experimental, yeah no bling till its proven. But planes that others have flown, proven designs, then its just up to the builder and the pilot, no excuses lol (y):LOL:(y)
 
Sometimes the painting does get a little involved. I have done paint jobs that take a lot of effort and ones that don't. I can see the how you wouldn't want to fly a dolled up plane only knowing you may wreck it within 10 flights or so. I just love to build, create, and fly man so its an ongoing process here. I enjoy it so I don't mind putting the time in even if it doesn't survive the maiden. If its really experimental, yeah no bling till its proven. But planes that others have flown, proven designs, then its just up to the builder and the pilot, no excuses lol (y):LOL:(y)
:cool:
 

Bricks

Master member
Using Silicone once applied nothing will stick to it glue, tape or paint so if you go that route put any markings or color on first.