Ask and get ANSWERED.

SkySlayer

ARC=Almost Ready to Crash
But why would it be going over 45A while static testing? Wouldn't this be too much for the ESC? see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fiPL17fISo&feature=plcp I am only assuming it would go over 45A on full throttle but wasn't game to push it that far.

You could go and get a 55A ESC and be safe but the main thing is that you are holding the motor down causing the motor to work harder to suck the air as apposed to if the plane was moving then the air would be going through any way and the only time Amps are a real problem apart from a static test is if you are hanging on the prop and EDF's do draw more amps than other motors in a static test because they rely a lot on the oncoming wind. But I do see your problem and just for safety you could get a higher Amp rating ESC.
 

foreverflying247

Junior Member
Hi, I'm new to the hobby and have had an incident with reversed ailerons.
I was wondering if you could tell me whether they are reversed or not.
Thanks!
 

Bollie

Member
Hi, I'm new to the hobby and have had an incident with reversed ailerons.
I was wondering if you could tell me whether they are reversed or not.
Thanks!

The way I always remember it is the aileron gives the transmitter stick a high 5, move the stick to the right the right aileron should come up and give the stick a high 5, move the stick left the left aileron comes up and gives the stick a high 5. Got it from Josh off one of their shows
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
You could switch the wires between the motor and ESC around.

NO! That reverses the motor, not the channel! Do this when the motor is spinning the wrong direction. But his problem is that his channel i reversed. You need to search in the Tx configuration for "Reverse" and enable Throttle reverse.
 

SkySlayer

ARC=Almost Ready to Crash
NO! That reverses the motor, not the channel! Do this when the motor is spinning the wrong direction. But his problem is that his channel i reversed. You need to search in the Tx configuration for "Reverse" and enable Throttle reverse.

Oh is his whole tx throttle stick wrong, my bad I thought is was that when he moved the throttle stick up it went backwards.
 

Tritium

Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
Do this WITHOUT a propeller attached for safety.
Powering up the ESC for the first time and setting the Automatic Throttle Calibration
The HobbyKing ESC features Automatic Throttle Calibration to attain the smoothest throttle response and resolution
throughout the entire throttle range of your transmitter. This step is done once to allow the ESC to “learn and memorize” your
Transmitter’s throttle output signals and only repeated if you change your transmitter.
1.Switch your Transmitter ON and set the throttle stick to its maximum position.
2.Connect the battery pack to the ESC. Wait for about 2 seconds, the motor will beep for twice, then put the throttle in the minimum
position, the motor will also beep, which indicates that your ESC has got the signal range of the throttle from your transmitter.
1.
The throttle is now calibrated and your ESC is ready for operation.

Found at this link: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uploads/696063666X137641X48.pdf

Thurmond
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
Programming stuff like motor brake, timing, cutoff voltage, etc is harder, but not necessary as the default settings work fine.
 

quickpix

Junior Member
I am progressing from foamies to a wood plane. I have a Great Planes Easy Sport 60" wing trainer that I want to put an electric motor.
I just want to fly level and practice my approaches and landings. I need a little extra motor to get me out of trouble but not so much that I need a giant battery.
What do you recommend for motor and prop please??
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
If it's this one:

http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/gpma1036.html

It's going to be expensive to switch!

You need a .40 - .50 equivalent motor:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=19028&aff=524347

And an appropiate ESC:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18008&aff=524347

The ESC has no BEC so add a separate one:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10313&aff=524347

Plus the right battery with good discharge rate:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9959&aff=524347

And a prop:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7968&aff=524347

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All that adds up to rougly $115 + $25 for shipping. Of course if someone sees a cheaper option, please post it. I would personally keep it on the glow engine.