Australians - is there flite test here or are we really off the edge of the world?
- Thread starter Jbro2306
- Start date
Jugsy
New member
Welcome, the Super Cub is a great way to go!
Unfortunately there's not any suppliers or dedicated groups (that I know of) but you should be able to find some like minded people in the wider RC community, maybe you can introduce them to Flitetest!
Shipping can be a pain to Australia, and unfortunately the foamboard sold in places like Officeworks/Kmart is heavy and near impossible to peel. I recommend trying out a few scratch build kits and if you love it, shell out for a box of foam! Seems expensive especially with shipping, but still works out to about $4AUD a sheet which is about a third of the price of the officeworks stuff, and way better.
Check out the IRC chat in my signature, always happy to help out or just have a chat!
Unfortunately there's not any suppliers or dedicated groups (that I know of) but you should be able to find some like minded people in the wider RC community, maybe you can introduce them to Flitetest!
Shipping can be a pain to Australia, and unfortunately the foamboard sold in places like Officeworks/Kmart is heavy and near impossible to peel. I recommend trying out a few scratch build kits and if you love it, shell out for a box of foam! Seems expensive especially with shipping, but still works out to about $4AUD a sheet which is about a third of the price of the officeworks stuff, and way better.
Check out the IRC chat in my signature, always happy to help out or just have a chat!
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
Welcome. The issue of foamboard is constant here in Australia but it is not as desperate as some make out. here in Brisbane I purchase my foamboard from my local art/picture framing shop and get a sheet which is twice the size of the FTFB for $9 aud.
As for the FT designs many in Aus have built plenty of their designs and know of any issues you need to worry about in building a FT design using Aussie foamboard. Personally I have built 10 or more of the FT designs with my latest build being the "Das Ugly Stick".
Should you need assistance just ask and it will be made available if possible that is.
The supercub is a great starting aircraft but very limited and you should start thinking about your next step immediately as you will quickly master it. My supercub was given away just 2 weeks ago to someone who started to learn with a totally wrong aircraft. Whilst it had been crashed and smashed many times it has always been easy to return to service and now it soldiers on with a new pilot.
Fly well and land better:black_eyed:
As for the FT designs many in Aus have built plenty of their designs and know of any issues you need to worry about in building a FT design using Aussie foamboard. Personally I have built 10 or more of the FT designs with my latest build being the "Das Ugly Stick".
Should you need assistance just ask and it will be made available if possible that is.
The supercub is a great starting aircraft but very limited and you should start thinking about your next step immediately as you will quickly master it. My supercub was given away just 2 weeks ago to someone who started to learn with a totally wrong aircraft. Whilst it had been crashed and smashed many times it has always been easy to return to service and now it soldiers on with a new pilot.
Fly well and land better:black_eyed:
Portugozzy
Junior Member
Hi guys
I'm new to a lot of what is going on here
Firstly the forum stuff is normally not my gig. So a I apologise if I I'm going over stuff that has already been covered. I have only found Flite test last weekend and I find myself again wrapped up in a the hobby I once loved so much but strayed from due to the costs in the way I was doing it.
The whole building from foam is also foreign to me but I am keen to give it a good nudge
I have to say that all the posts that I have read seem to carry the same general ethos as FT ...support to keep the hobby cheap, fun and accessible.
So on the back of that may I please ask.
Bob do you have a brand of product that I can search for in WA I'm in a small regional town with a larger town about 40 mins away from me .there is an art supply store there however I'm not 100 percent sure of the exact product to ask them for.
I also seem to get the notion that what is available in Australia is heavier than that we see on on FT.is there something I have to change like 3 mm instead of 5mm for example
My aim is the FT racer and I'm chomping at the bit to get into it but unsure of my first step.the material.
Also my plan is to create the model from the down loaded plans I think given the resources I have locally I will have to use the tiled version of the plans are you able to tell me if each tile is A4 size.
Thanks for you help and patience guys
Dave
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Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
Hi Dave,
Sorry for the delay in my response but I like to produce my own original designs in FB and then fly them of course.
Basically I have been busy having fun.
3mm FB is not that much lighter than the 5mm and it is a little more rigid than the 5mm also. I have built and flown a number of 3mm designs and some of my fellow fliers in Brisbane have 3mm designs built by me.
When building a FT design in local FB do not fit the electronics including servos until the absolute last step in order to help the balance. Normally the larger FT designs have no real problem with balance and build almost exactly as per the FT build video. The smaller designs can have horrific problems and I have built more than one small plane only to make it into an ornament.
Find yourself a supplier of Depron which you can use for tail feathers and even fuselage booms to help balance small FT designs. The lighter weight can make some FT designs fly like rockets, (Thank God for throttle control).
As for which FB I use I purchase this brand from my local art supply and picture framing shop.
http://www.megawoodlarsonjuhl.com.au/category/1411-32x40
if you peruse the site you will see lots of alternate materials which I might try one day.
Hot melt glue works OK but can fail on V hot days or of plane stored in locked up vehicle. I use little hotmelt and have found a local foam safe glue which performs admirably and is very low cost.
The normal tiled plans are of course in Letter which is the US standard I believe. If you do not have the ability to print the full plans and have a few dollars spare you can have them printed at your local "Officeworks" or similar. The last time I enquired I was quoted $4 for an A1 size plan printed in B&W. It was a while ago though.
Keep in touch!
Bob:black_eyed:
Sorry for the delay in my response but I like to produce my own original designs in FB and then fly them of course.
Basically I have been busy having fun.
3mm FB is not that much lighter than the 5mm and it is a little more rigid than the 5mm also. I have built and flown a number of 3mm designs and some of my fellow fliers in Brisbane have 3mm designs built by me.
When building a FT design in local FB do not fit the electronics including servos until the absolute last step in order to help the balance. Normally the larger FT designs have no real problem with balance and build almost exactly as per the FT build video. The smaller designs can have horrific problems and I have built more than one small plane only to make it into an ornament.
Find yourself a supplier of Depron which you can use for tail feathers and even fuselage booms to help balance small FT designs. The lighter weight can make some FT designs fly like rockets, (Thank God for throttle control).
As for which FB I use I purchase this brand from my local art supply and picture framing shop.
http://www.megawoodlarsonjuhl.com.au/category/1411-32x40
if you peruse the site you will see lots of alternate materials which I might try one day.
Hot melt glue works OK but can fail on V hot days or of plane stored in locked up vehicle. I use little hotmelt and have found a local foam safe glue which performs admirably and is very low cost.
The normal tiled plans are of course in Letter which is the US standard I believe. If you do not have the ability to print the full plans and have a few dollars spare you can have them printed at your local "Officeworks" or similar. The last time I enquired I was quoted $4 for an A1 size plan printed in B&W. It was a while ago though.
Keep in touch!
Bob:black_eyed:
Portugozzy
Junior Member
Thank you for your reply, bob.
Over the last couple of days I have have made progress, but now after reading the last post I'm not entirely sure just how much....Whilst I'm not expecting perfection out of my first FB build experianced support makes all the difference .
I took a quick 4 hr drive to the city and got home right round the time your post went up.I went to an art supply shop that specialised in picture mounting/framing and returned home with Peterborough mat boards 3 and 5 mm.It sounded looked and indeed tasted like the same thing I seen on the FT vids . I also Bought the recommended hot glue gun , but taking onboard, no pun intended, what you have said I am interested in your preferred alternative.
and then printed the 24 pages of tiled plans which ... Of course is in letter format and of course I knew that ��.
I found that the scale was .5 of a centimetre larger over 10 cm
This to my thinking is not a big deal the CG should remain the same and as long as I use it as a template and ignore measurements (or adjust accorgingly)I should end up with a slightly larger scale plane... Thoughts?
I should really have gone to office works as you say but I don't feel like another 4 hr trip for it and I'm kinda liking the idea of this model being slightly larger unless you can think of something wrong with my line of thought.
Feel free to criticise correct and educate
Dave
Over the last couple of days I have have made progress, but now after reading the last post I'm not entirely sure just how much....Whilst I'm not expecting perfection out of my first FB build experianced support makes all the difference .
I took a quick 4 hr drive to the city and got home right round the time your post went up.I went to an art supply shop that specialised in picture mounting/framing and returned home with Peterborough mat boards 3 and 5 mm.It sounded looked and indeed tasted like the same thing I seen on the FT vids . I also Bought the recommended hot glue gun , but taking onboard, no pun intended, what you have said I am interested in your preferred alternative.
and then printed the 24 pages of tiled plans which ... Of course is in letter format and of course I knew that ��.
I found that the scale was .5 of a centimetre larger over 10 cm
This to my thinking is not a big deal the CG should remain the same and as long as I use it as a template and ignore measurements (or adjust accorgingly)I should end up with a slightly larger scale plane... Thoughts?
I should really have gone to office works as you say but I don't feel like another 4 hr trip for it and I'm kinda liking the idea of this model being slightly larger unless you can think of something wrong with my line of thought.
Feel free to criticise correct and educate
Dave
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
Hi Dave,
When I did my last post I quickly signed out and returned to my latest project. It is only now that I decided to take a break before starting the bending of the landing gear.
The glue I use is a foam safe craft glue, (clear), which I purchase from a local variety discount store. The brand is "Office Central" and it costs me $2.50 for 100ml. used properly and not in excessive quantities a single bottle can assemble 2 large or 4 small FT Designs.
Be very careful when scaling FT designs as the channels of foam removed can be a problem if you change the scale too much. My preferred method is to use metric graph paper and redraw the plans full size. This also allows me to alter the design by just drawing the changes on the plans. In your case a little extra Hotmelt will fill the gaps if any.
When cutting out please use a long, (1 metre), steel rule as a blade guide as it can save you a lot of issues of what I refer to blade wander, (my way of describing my inability to cut straight lines free hand). To save yourself even further heartache before you score the hinge lines for control surfaces or the wing Leading edge I VERY STRONGLY recommend that you cover the reverse side of the sheet with clear packing tape to reinforce the paper, (Make sure that you rub the packing tape into the FB to remove as much air as possible).
This tape stops the paper, (which you were not supposed to cut), from breaking or tearing when you fold it or over time in the case of a control surface hinge.In my own case I tend to wrap the entire plane outer surface in packing tape, (coloured purchased from KMart), to provide moisture and impact protection.
May I enquire as to the subject of your first build and your chosen flying field environment? Have you selected your electronics yet?
Will check this thread later this afternoon after I sort out the landing gear
Try to never criticise, but rather educate and assist where needed. I do not know it all and often the one that is educated is ME!
Catch you later!
Bob
When I did my last post I quickly signed out and returned to my latest project. It is only now that I decided to take a break before starting the bending of the landing gear.
The glue I use is a foam safe craft glue, (clear), which I purchase from a local variety discount store. The brand is "Office Central" and it costs me $2.50 for 100ml. used properly and not in excessive quantities a single bottle can assemble 2 large or 4 small FT Designs.
Be very careful when scaling FT designs as the channels of foam removed can be a problem if you change the scale too much. My preferred method is to use metric graph paper and redraw the plans full size. This also allows me to alter the design by just drawing the changes on the plans. In your case a little extra Hotmelt will fill the gaps if any.
When cutting out please use a long, (1 metre), steel rule as a blade guide as it can save you a lot of issues of what I refer to blade wander, (my way of describing my inability to cut straight lines free hand). To save yourself even further heartache before you score the hinge lines for control surfaces or the wing Leading edge I VERY STRONGLY recommend that you cover the reverse side of the sheet with clear packing tape to reinforce the paper, (Make sure that you rub the packing tape into the FB to remove as much air as possible).
This tape stops the paper, (which you were not supposed to cut), from breaking or tearing when you fold it or over time in the case of a control surface hinge.In my own case I tend to wrap the entire plane outer surface in packing tape, (coloured purchased from KMart), to provide moisture and impact protection.
May I enquire as to the subject of your first build and your chosen flying field environment? Have you selected your electronics yet?
Will check this thread later this afternoon after I sort out the landing gear
Try to never criticise, but rather educate and assist where needed. I do not know it all and often the one that is educated is ME!
Catch you later!
Bob
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Portugozzy
Junior Member
Morning bob hope all went well with your landing gear with. Bit of luck you might get to use it.
I'm on the hunt for the glue as we speak.
I ran into some issues early on with the scaling of the FT design.
Being the Letter format on A4 stretched the image horizontally and shrunk it vertically.
So we played with the format and got it back to original specs. So thanks for the point in the right direction on that one
We some times fly at an emergency airstrip that we have gotten permission to use however it seems that this year we will be doing a lot more in paddocks with short pasture and stubble feilds after harvest so landing gear I think will be optional.
I will attempt to upload a video of the airfield. The plane in the clip is sadly no longer with us after folding the stabs on a very very hot pass however the intention is to use the set up from that( turnigy 1100 KV motor plush 60 amp ESC and Metal gear micros with 2200 mha 4 cell) into the an FT racer. We chose that plane because it's the first time my 6 year old son has asked to build a plane with me after watching the movie Planes.
Given the kick I get out of over powering small models this is my first FB build but I'm not a total stranger to building planes and an old hand at repairs and strengthening I do believe this will be a far better way of doing it financially I just need to get my head around the finer points of working with FB. For example I would have never thought of the channel sizes until it was to late so again thanks.
I have also taken you advice on the stiffness if 3 mm FB and rather than using it to build the model with I have decided to stick the plans to it so I will cut the peices out and store as templates.
Apparently it doesn't like my vid , sorry
I'm on the hunt for the glue as we speak.
I ran into some issues early on with the scaling of the FT design.
Being the Letter format on A4 stretched the image horizontally and shrunk it vertically.
So we played with the format and got it back to original specs. So thanks for the point in the right direction on that one
We some times fly at an emergency airstrip that we have gotten permission to use however it seems that this year we will be doing a lot more in paddocks with short pasture and stubble feilds after harvest so landing gear I think will be optional.
I will attempt to upload a video of the airfield. The plane in the clip is sadly no longer with us after folding the stabs on a very very hot pass however the intention is to use the set up from that( turnigy 1100 KV motor plush 60 amp ESC and Metal gear micros with 2200 mha 4 cell) into the an FT racer. We chose that plane because it's the first time my 6 year old son has asked to build a plane with me after watching the movie Planes.
Given the kick I get out of over powering small models this is my first FB build but I'm not a total stranger to building planes and an old hand at repairs and strengthening I do believe this will be a far better way of doing it financially I just need to get my head around the finer points of working with FB. For example I would have never thought of the channel sizes until it was to late so again thanks.
I have also taken you advice on the stiffness if 3 mm FB and rather than using it to build the model with I have decided to stick the plans to it so I will cut the peices out and store as templates.
Apparently it doesn't like my vid , sorry
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Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
By the sounds of it you have some RC flight experience and like planes that can go really fast.
Do not cut up all of your 3mm FB as I have included a plane of my own design which uses 3mm FB.
It is not for a beginner though but it does really fly fast and can climb vertical from take off or hand launch depending upon your local field.
It can fly well and reasonably fast with a 2205C 1400Kv from HK but the motor I use is listed on the plan and it makes the plane into a rocket.
View attachment 3mm FB Quick Trick.pdf
The photo is on a lower powered version with a narrower front fuselage but I have since relaced the Fuselage and have approximately 25 awesome flights to date.
Rudder can be left off if there is no landing gear.
Have fun!!
Do not cut up all of your 3mm FB as I have included a plane of my own design which uses 3mm FB.
It is not for a beginner though but it does really fly fast and can climb vertical from take off or hand launch depending upon your local field.
It can fly well and reasonably fast with a 2205C 1400Kv from HK but the motor I use is listed on the plan and it makes the plane into a rocket.
View attachment 3mm FB Quick Trick.pdf
The photo is on a lower powered version with a narrower front fuselage but I have since relaced the Fuselage and have approximately 25 awesome flights to date.
Rudder can be left off if there is no landing gear.
Have fun!!
Portugozzy
Junior Member
Ohhhhh me likes!dont suppose there is a lazy plan hanging around? I mean... Personally speaking acro is pretty ,scale deserves respect but speed is king and if you want it power to weight is where it's at. Who doesn't smile when you over take a jet with your prop and lipo Ol banger
As a matter of fact I have just checked the post after an afternoon of flying in a paddock just down the road from me and I had a very successful day. I revisited a plane I put together nearly a year ago. 750kv motor pushed by 8 cells 100 amp ESC 10 KG servos all Frankensteined into a black horse speed air 40. I confess the first two flights took some getting over given that sheer luck brought the animal back again .However given that my direction in the hobby has taken a very different course I was ok with the idea of the balsa ARF becoming a parts doner.
So to give it all a fighting chance I proped wAy down 12x8 to 9x6 lost some weight in the battery department and kissed it goodbye.
Success! It flew like a sparrow on steroids.
This week I will patiently cut the templates and the 5mm panels for the build .
The notion that I'm not doing it alone inspires confidence.
Would be interested in seeing how some of your designs fly don't know how vids go on here but portugozzy@gmail.com is my email
As a matter of fact I have just checked the post after an afternoon of flying in a paddock just down the road from me and I had a very successful day. I revisited a plane I put together nearly a year ago. 750kv motor pushed by 8 cells 100 amp ESC 10 KG servos all Frankensteined into a black horse speed air 40. I confess the first two flights took some getting over given that sheer luck brought the animal back again .However given that my direction in the hobby has taken a very different course I was ok with the idea of the balsa ARF becoming a parts doner.
So to give it all a fighting chance I proped wAy down 12x8 to 9x6 lost some weight in the battery department and kissed it goodbye.
Success! It flew like a sparrow on steroids.
This week I will patiently cut the templates and the 5mm panels for the build .
The notion that I'm not doing it alone inspires confidence.
Would be interested in seeing how some of your designs fly don't know how vids go on here but portugozzy@gmail.com is my email
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
Portugozzy,
My designs tend to be rather experimental and the one I posted above. (Quick Trick), was my rendering in FB of an old Balsa Design for a pylon Racer. I built it to see how my semi-symmetrical wing design performed and as a test bed to experiment with motor sizes to give me an idea of what was needed to achieve what performance. The photo above has a Park250 fitted running a 2S battery, hence the long nose. Later version as per the plan uses a funfighter motor and a 3S.
My other designs have been for different self education purposes and include my FB rendering of the Balsa Little Toni - Flat bottom wing on a sport model and a total scratch design based upon the Quick Trick wing which was to give slightly more stable and spirited performance for those who sought to learn sport flying. Called the "Slick Trick" is has an interchangeable canopy design in which an FPV camera could be mounted though the pics I have are for the simple domed FB canopy.
Apart from those mentioned above I have been tinkering with the Tiny Trainer and have built 2 canards and am in the final stages of assembly of a true tandem wing version.
Other projects include some of the most difficult to balance designs especially those of WW1 and earlier. Current project is a semi scale Fokker EIV. Also in the project pile and actually inspired by my own mishaps is for a Ballistic Parachute for RC aircraft. How often do planes lose their wing or part thereof due to some mid air event? There is nothing worse than watching a months work and 100's of dollars in gear try to generate a mushroom cloud on impact. That is also the reason most of my designs have 2 of more wing spars.
For flight videos there is no solution for me and I rely on a kind fellow flier to get the flying photos! It is simple I can't operate a camera and fly and I would rather build 2 or more project planes than to buy a video camera of any worth. That being said I am about to attempt to integrate Flight Stabilisation into some of my designs.
I do draw plans for everything I build and fly but OLD SCHOOL on paper. Occasionally I do draw them out on Computer and supply them in PDF format.
If you see an old "Wooden" plan and would like to build it in FB just let me know and I will assist where I can.
Here are a few Pics of my designs taken a few months ago and all still flying.
Quick Trick
Slick Trick
Little Toni
TT based Canard
Have a great Day!
I am back to the workbench:black_eyed:
My designs tend to be rather experimental and the one I posted above. (Quick Trick), was my rendering in FB of an old Balsa Design for a pylon Racer. I built it to see how my semi-symmetrical wing design performed and as a test bed to experiment with motor sizes to give me an idea of what was needed to achieve what performance. The photo above has a Park250 fitted running a 2S battery, hence the long nose. Later version as per the plan uses a funfighter motor and a 3S.
My other designs have been for different self education purposes and include my FB rendering of the Balsa Little Toni - Flat bottom wing on a sport model and a total scratch design based upon the Quick Trick wing which was to give slightly more stable and spirited performance for those who sought to learn sport flying. Called the "Slick Trick" is has an interchangeable canopy design in which an FPV camera could be mounted though the pics I have are for the simple domed FB canopy.
Apart from those mentioned above I have been tinkering with the Tiny Trainer and have built 2 canards and am in the final stages of assembly of a true tandem wing version.
Other projects include some of the most difficult to balance designs especially those of WW1 and earlier. Current project is a semi scale Fokker EIV. Also in the project pile and actually inspired by my own mishaps is for a Ballistic Parachute for RC aircraft. How often do planes lose their wing or part thereof due to some mid air event? There is nothing worse than watching a months work and 100's of dollars in gear try to generate a mushroom cloud on impact. That is also the reason most of my designs have 2 of more wing spars.
For flight videos there is no solution for me and I rely on a kind fellow flier to get the flying photos! It is simple I can't operate a camera and fly and I would rather build 2 or more project planes than to buy a video camera of any worth. That being said I am about to attempt to integrate Flight Stabilisation into some of my designs.
I do draw plans for everything I build and fly but OLD SCHOOL on paper. Occasionally I do draw them out on Computer and supply them in PDF format.
If you see an old "Wooden" plan and would like to build it in FB just let me know and I will assist where I can.
Here are a few Pics of my designs taken a few months ago and all still flying.
Quick Trick
Slick Trick
Little Toni
TT based Canard
Have a great Day!
I am back to the workbench:black_eyed:
Hey guys,
Thanks for your earlier replies to my post and generosity!
Ive found myself getting bored with the limitations of the supercub pretty quickly - particularly as it goes all over the joint when the wind picks up at all - but that maybe more a reflection of my abilities at this point! I just scratch built an ft spitfire using officeworks fb and it weighs heaps so yeah learning a few of these tips about balancing and putting the electronics on last the hard way! It looked good but was tail heavy so it's maiden was pretty rough! Im going to give the fuselage another shot moving the rear servos up the forward section. I also got a speed build ft racer with their waterproof fb (yep definitely lighter!) and power pack c (which I used for the spitfire). I had to put 4 lead sinkers on the front of the spitfire to balance cg and havent had a chance to test it again but I imagine with that kind of weight it will be lucky to fly at all!
Also astonished to discover how many rc hobby shops there are out there in my local area (west melbourne) - I had no idea!
Cheers
Joel
Thanks for your earlier replies to my post and generosity!
Ive found myself getting bored with the limitations of the supercub pretty quickly - particularly as it goes all over the joint when the wind picks up at all - but that maybe more a reflection of my abilities at this point! I just scratch built an ft spitfire using officeworks fb and it weighs heaps so yeah learning a few of these tips about balancing and putting the electronics on last the hard way! It looked good but was tail heavy so it's maiden was pretty rough! Im going to give the fuselage another shot moving the rear servos up the forward section. I also got a speed build ft racer with their waterproof fb (yep definitely lighter!) and power pack c (which I used for the spitfire). I had to put 4 lead sinkers on the front of the spitfire to balance cg and havent had a chance to test it again but I imagine with that kind of weight it will be lucky to fly at all!
Also astonished to discover how many rc hobby shops there are out there in my local area (west melbourne) - I had no idea!
Cheers
Joel
Hi Dave,
When I did my last post I quickly signed out and returned to my latest project. It is only now that I decided to take a break before starting the bending of the landing gear.
The glue I use is a foam safe craft glue, (clear), which I purchase from a local variety discount store. The brand is "Office Central" and it costs me $2.50 for 100ml. used properly and not in excessive quantities a single bottle can assemble 2 large or 4 small FT Designs.
Be very careful when scaling FT designs as the channels of foam removed can be a problem if you change the scale too much. My preferred method is to use metric graph paper and redraw the plans full size. This also allows me to alter the design by just drawing the changes on the plans. In your case a little extra Hotmelt will fill the gaps if any.
When cutting out please use a long, (1 metre), steel rule as a blade guide as it can save you a lot of issues of what I refer to blade wander, (my way of describing my inability to cut straight lines free hand). To save yourself even further heartache before you score the hinge lines for control surfaces or the wing Leading edge I VERY STRONGLY recommend that you cover the reverse side of the sheet with clear packing tape to reinforce the paper, (Make sure that you rub the packing tape into the FB to remove as much air as possible).
This tape stops the paper, (which you were not supposed to cut), from breaking or tearing when you fold it or over time in the case of a control surface hinge.In my own case I tend to wrap the entire plane outer surface in packing tape, (coloured purchased from KMart), to provide moisture and impact protection.
May I enquire as to the subject of your first build and your chosen flying field environment? Have you selected your electronics yet?
Will check this thread later this afternoon after I sort out the landing gear
Try to never criticise, but rather educate and assist where needed. I do not know it all and often the one that is educated is ME!
Catch you later!
Bob
Hi Bob,
Do you find covering with tape adds a lot of extra weight?
Cheers
Joel
Hi Jugsy,
Thankyou! By shelling out for a box of foam I guess you mean what flite test offers?
Cheers
Joel
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
Joel,
The actual answer is NO! a few grams only for a park flyer only. I use the cheap coloured packing tapes available here from KMart, (6 colours for $5).
As for your weight issues with your Spitfire my son had a similar issue and we increased the recommended battery size and cut lightening holes in the fuselage rear, (covered the holes with a sheet of paper) and with a little weight in the nose it balanced out quite well. We also had added landing gear which included a steerable tailwheel.
Sorry for the delay in reply but I overused my internet
and was disconnected. Further proof that I live in Australia:black_eyed:
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
Just a little thought shared!
When you are required to remove the paper from FB or if you suspect that your FB design might become tail heavy built out of local FB you can easily substitute Depron for the FB in the appropriate areas.
For instance the spitfire design can have the rear of the fuselage and the tail control surfaces made out of Depron with a little CF stiffening for the control surfaces.
Apart from the obvious weight advantages a secondary advantage is that you can sand airfoil shapes or round Leading Edges in the tail with a little judicial use of sandpaper.
I had built a mini Speedster entirely out of Depron using the FT plans and the recommended power pack components. It was my first really scarey aircraft and it flew so fast that retail flyers would ask the usual twenty questions about where I got it and how I built it.
I also built a Mini Scout but this one was Depron from the wing TE back. It also flew rather fast and was a very robust and exciting plane to fly.
The point of all of this is that FB designs are designed around DTFB which is very cheap in the USA. Whether you wish to stick to their material or not is your choice. There is no rule stating that you must use DTFB or any other material.
Build with what you can easily acquire and fly as often as possible.:black_eyed:
When you are required to remove the paper from FB or if you suspect that your FB design might become tail heavy built out of local FB you can easily substitute Depron for the FB in the appropriate areas.
For instance the spitfire design can have the rear of the fuselage and the tail control surfaces made out of Depron with a little CF stiffening for the control surfaces.
Apart from the obvious weight advantages a secondary advantage is that you can sand airfoil shapes or round Leading Edges in the tail with a little judicial use of sandpaper.
I had built a mini Speedster entirely out of Depron using the FT plans and the recommended power pack components. It was my first really scarey aircraft and it flew so fast that retail flyers would ask the usual twenty questions about where I got it and how I built it.
I also built a Mini Scout but this one was Depron from the wing TE back. It also flew rather fast and was a very robust and exciting plane to fly.
The point of all of this is that FB designs are designed around DTFB which is very cheap in the USA. Whether you wish to stick to their material or not is your choice. There is no rule stating that you must use DTFB or any other material.
Build with what you can easily acquire and fly as often as possible.:black_eyed:
Rod Muller
Junior Member
Hi Dave
Haven't been here for a while so sorry if I am repeating something you have already done. To print FT plans in A4 download the full plan.
Then print the entire plan as a poster at 100% size. Set your printer paper to A4.
Haven't been here for a while so sorry if I am repeating something you have already done. To print FT plans in A4 download the full plan.
Then print the entire plan as a poster at 100% size. Set your printer paper to A4.
ft simple storch maiden flight
Hi folks,
This is my second attempt at a scratch build. The first was a Swappable Spitfire but I got just about everything you can wrong! Used fence wire for push rods( no - not a good idea). Discovered why tail heavy planes dont fly twice - you name it. But hey I'm learning. Foam board in Australia is rather heavier than that in the US so it flies like a bus but we'll see. This video (my first successful maiden flight yay!) the plane has a 9'6' prop and I'm still waiting for the 10'4 (or whatever it is - yknow the ones that come with the power pack C) which I'm hoping will fly more efficiently.
I had motor (again whatever comes with the power pack C) running nearly full throttle through this flight so something not quite right but maybe its too heavy. Also, it kept going in circles on the ground but was ok once it was in the air. Think the wheels need to be aligned better!
Anyway, here tis!
https://youtu.be/mGrukygcjLw
cheers
Joel
Hi folks,
This is my second attempt at a scratch build. The first was a Swappable Spitfire but I got just about everything you can wrong! Used fence wire for push rods( no - not a good idea). Discovered why tail heavy planes dont fly twice - you name it. But hey I'm learning. Foam board in Australia is rather heavier than that in the US so it flies like a bus but we'll see. This video (my first successful maiden flight yay!) the plane has a 9'6' prop and I'm still waiting for the 10'4 (or whatever it is - yknow the ones that come with the power pack C) which I'm hoping will fly more efficiently.
I had motor (again whatever comes with the power pack C) running nearly full throttle through this flight so something not quite right but maybe its too heavy. Also, it kept going in circles on the ground but was ok once it was in the air. Think the wheels need to be aligned better!
Anyway, here tis!
https://youtu.be/mGrukygcjLw
cheers
Joel
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