For those who would say it is far too expensive an exercise the real expense was in the time it took but then it was an experimental exercise and so there was a lot of measuring, cutting and adjusting that would not occur on a build done to an existing plan.
Dollar cost? In AUD, (Aussie Pesos), the exercise has cost about $10 in FB and glue and an additional $25 for 100mm wide balsa sheets.
Is it strong enough? The wing in the original had 3 strong points in the wing, (spars and spar like effects) they are the leading edge, wing spar, and the rear wing panel joint. The wing as per this post has 4 spar like areas and a further half spar effect area. They are the LE spar, the 2 wing spars, (smaller but reinforced and stronger), the rear wing panel joint, (extended to the wing tip), and finally the wing TE half spar like area.
Will the return justify the expense? This is open to debate but from my son's experience I will not lose this Spitfire due to moisture ingress over time nor will I need to replace tail members or other parts due to minor hangar rash incidents. My son's new spitfire is his second and the first one was repaired 3 times before it succumb to serious weakening due to moisture, (over an eighteen month period). If I can avoid turning the plane into a lawn dart it should last a very long time.
Does this approach allow me to use my FB model with IC engines? YES! As long as you sheet all areas exposed to the Exhaust residue and fuel as you would with a balsa model it will be fine. The use of covering film does fuel proof the main body of the plane and other coatings are readily available for exposed wooden surfaces.
Is it repairable? I believe so. it maybe a different technique with a slightly more involved process but the structure should be more of a "Patchable" design than standard balsa designs or even bare FB. At worst just cut out the damage and rebuild the effected or now missing area. Hidden broken glue joints the bane of balsa designs should never occur as the foam and glue should retain the damage to the local area of impact for most repairs. (This is yet to be confirmed of course).
Finally a little money saving idea I hope. You can buy a circle cutter but you do not need one really if you can rummage around and find one of those cheap and nasty compasses that seem to be everywhere. The ones that are meant to hold a pencil using a screw. Remove the pencil and install a hobby knife with a sharp blade, (No 11 I believe), and you are able to cut circles with a little patience and practice.
